Jump to content
SAU Community

Alcon 343Mm Front Brake Upgrade

blingcommander
 Share

Recommended Posts

blingcommander Contributor

blingcommander

Posted
Posted

selling these coz they are a bit overkill for a drift car :lol:

these are the old school GREX/greddy upgraded brakes made by alcon (before greddy started using Taiwanese calipers)

they come with mounting brackets, shims, etc and will bolt up to any silva/cefiro/laurel/skyline that uses a 12mm bolt to mount the caliper. they come with braided lines to suit a R33 (possibly r32?) and could be easily adapted to suit a silvia.

the rotors consist of custom made hats to accept a AP racing 343x32 rotor (which is practically new)

brake pads are unknown brand, but still have 10mm of meat and have 'competition use' stamped onto them.

they are freaken light and can fit under the right 17s, they are pretty grotty as they have been sitting around for a few years

chasing $3000. can deliver no worries.

2011-09-17134135.jpg

2011-10-14103821.jpg

2011-10-14103807.jpg

2011-10-14103717.jpg

2011-10-14103604.jpg

2011-10-14103548.jpg

2011-10-14103520.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380152-alcon-343mm-front-brake-upgrade/
Share on other sites
blingcommander Contributor

blingcommander

Posted
  • Author
Posted

err. i have seen brembos in the same 'condition' go for $1500. they are pretty much new pads, and rotors. everything else is just dirty

don't get me wrong i'm open to offers. but not lowballers.

partyboy73 Rising Star

partyboy73

Posted
Posted (edited)

I agree with the commander, and the 'condition' is just brake dust, assuming they've been drained, flushed with metho and stored in a dry environment they would be good still... even if they had'nt they stand a good chance. Having said that my opinion is $3k is a little high and $1800 - $2200 ( which I would pay if I was cashed up for it ) would be a good buy considering the rotors and pads are in with the deal.. my 2.2 cents ( GST incl. ) also free bump

Edited by partyboy73
blingcommander Contributor

blingcommander

Posted
  • Author
Posted

cheers man, they have been sitting on a wreck in the shed for about 2.5 years. they worked fine driving in and out of the shed. no leaking or anything like that.

gotta remember these were originally sold with a 335mm rotor. the previous owner couldn't source new rotors to suit, so has new hats mate to suit a common AP rotor that is easy to source. that alone cost more than fly355s offer

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

Can you measure up the rotor again? Looking at this pic of the caliper mount, it appears as though there is a silver bush between the mount and the caliper, suggesting to me that the kit has more likely been modified to go from a 332mm rotor to a 355mm rotor. OR they were originally a 332mm kit and now run the larger 343mm rotor. Though to my eye the size of the mount suggests to me they are a 355 adaptor, and if those Regamasters are 18" then thats about all the clearance you would get with a 355mm rotor under that rim (I say that because my old Regas did not clear F40s on a 340mm rotor)

Either way they are a durable brake kit.

2011-10-14103807.jpg

MookRG Collaborator

MookRG

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

They are definately 343mm rotors, and they are spacers under the caliper mounts. They were modded from the 332 to 343 because they guy said he couldnt source new grex rotors so he opted for AP 343mm ones.

And the Rega's are 17's, calipers cleared by 4-5mm.

blingcommander Contributor

blingcommander

Posted
  • Author
Posted

CP3581-542G8 is the part number on the rotor. according to google that is a 343x32 rotor.

OR they were originally a 332mm kit and now run the larger 343mm rotor.
pretty sure this is the case.

price drop the $2500 anyways whistling.gif

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • turbo76lx
      Torana Lx Gtr Hatch, Lots Of Pictures

      By turbo76lx · Posted

      Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      You can probably scrub the rust with a toothbrush or something. After you get the rust off flush well with water to neutralize and you will probably want to also use a fuel tank sealer to keep it from rusting again.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      The sodium citrate solution is designed to buffer the citric acid to keep it from attacking metal quite so much, the guy that came up with that recipe did a ton of testing on how much metal loss occurs over time and it's nothing crazy unless you forget about it for months:   
×
×
  • Create New...