Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey SAU!

I have a tricky question to be asked and sourced i currently own a 1985 MR30 Skyline

Before directing me into previous made topics i explain mine is completely different, my MR30 has had a 5 speed RB30 conversion

and i wish to do the s13 coil-over conversion!

my problem in being that the RB30 is alot heavier than any standard sr20, 100kg to fact!

Therefor i have been explained that a standard s13 coil-over (Which usually hold a weight rating of 8kgs at front 6kgs at rear)

i am looking for a 12kg front and 8kg rear or shall 8kgs front and 6kg front be fine?

Help is very appreciated

Ty!

Walker.

.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380191-mr30-coilover-conversion/
Share on other sites

s-13 conversions are done all the time in r31's....

not to many people think quite that far into the process ie engine weights. do it, see if you like it at standard spring rate, change them if your not happy.

are you going 2nd hand coil overs or brand new, you can at a small extra cost normally get different springs/rates when buying new.

Come to the Classic Skylines Section.

S13 and C210 weigh the same.

Seeing as R30 is a C210 with a newer body on it i wouldn't think they'd weigh much more.

The 8 & 6 springs will be fine.

Yer, i have read about plenty of s13 coilovers into the mr30, and i am buying new coilovers from B.C unfortunately i have not had a reply from them,

thanks for the input rsx84

Socrates the difference is ive put a 250 kg RB30 in it making it alot heavier at the front.

are you emailing BC directly?? find a dealer/re-seller for BC coil-overs, they want your money and will answer faster..

option 1 garage in Brisbane offer both HSD and BC, look around for a more local option

i ran HSD HR coil overs in my R31 (s13 conversion) 8kg fronts and 6kg rear, standard spring rates off the shelf. for a daily driver they were stiff but fun.

i also fitted s-13 fronts in my HR30, can't remember if the r30 tie rod ends fit or not. that may be a more pressing thing to look into.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
×
×
  • Create New...