Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I was hoping someone may know or can point me in the right direction i have done a search over the forums but didnt get much in return. I was drive the other day and this is the first time ever the car has missed a beat the engine light came on but after getting home any hooking the seach tool I have and error code 21 - No Ignition Signal (Ign Signal-Primary) and I have no idea what this really mean. The car runs normal before and after the light comes on and start first time every time till this day.

As I drove it the follow day and the warning didnt come back up so I was think maybe it have a hick up but than drove her the following day after and 10 minutes into the drive she displayed the engine light warning.(same error) did the same again to night

I don't know what other details to give you but if anyone has any idea would be great.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380218-error-code-21-no-ignition-signal/
Share on other sites

Well that's Just great....... I had been thinking about getting new one soon but not right now as trying to save for another house.

Thanks for this trip I'll let it run and see what other may say as well..

My C34 started doing that the day after got it. Very intermittently. But when the light came on it'd run like a pig. I checked the code with a paperclip and got 21. Did some research, replaced the coilpacks, and it's still going strong nearly 9 months later. I got Yellowjacket coilpacks delivered to my door for $420 and put them in myself. It's not that hard, just a little fiddly and I'm no mechanic. Took me 3 hours from start to finish. I checked the plugs while I had the coilpacks out too.

If there is no money in the budget for coilpacks just now you can do the quick fix - pull the coilpacks out and spray them with insulating material - there are a few threads with suggestions - and pull your plugs out and replace them if necessary but in any case gap them down to 0.8mm.

BTW I just bought a set of brand new OEM coilpacks for AU$400 off ebay - going fine in my car now - I think ke is an SAU members but doesn't currently have a lsiting.

Id suggest Selleys #401 hi-temp industrial strength silicone sealant (+ corking gun to apply) from your local hardware store for under $20.

Layer it around the coilpacks to stop breakdwon / wasted spark. Will get you by for a fair while :)

If there is no money in the budget for coilpacks just now you can do the quick fix - pull the coilpacks out and spray them with insulating material - there are a few threads with suggestions - and pull your plugs out and replace them if necessary but in any case gap them down to 0.8mm.

BTW I just bought a set of brand new OEM coilpacks for AU$400 off ebay - going fine in my car now - I think ke is an SAU members but doesn't currently have a lsiting.

Snap,

I have just bought a set from Adam HERE for my S1 and it's all good.

If there is no money in the budget for coilpacks just now you can do the quick fix - pull the coilpacks out and spray them with insulating material - there are a few threads with suggestions - and pull your plugs out and replace them if necessary but in any case gap them down to 0.8mm.

BTW I just bought a set of brand new OEM coilpacks for AU$400 off ebay - going fine in my car now - I think ke is an SAU members but doesn't currently have a lsiting.

self amalgamating tape is the go now apparently

kinda looks like tape, but its made of rubber

Hey thanks all I'll give that a go as I would like that car running to do a few runs down Eastern Creek strip in the next 2 week as we have booked the strip for the day to play around on it.

  • 2 years later...

Sorry to dig this up! but did you have any luck from replacing the coils? having the exact same issue not missing etc have replaced 2 coils that were not genuine nissan parts and the engine light is still on :dry: don't really want to replace the other 4 if it was something else!

Thanks

  • 4 weeks later...

Hey Hollypopx

Best thing to do is to reset the ECU to clear the fault codes and test.

I had this same fault code a while ago....it was easier for me to replace the all the coilpacks (and it would come out to be cheaper in the long run)

Now you can go for the quick fix and do what Tangles has suggested but after a while they will eventually break down...you have to remember they would have been in the car since day 1 and they don't last forever

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Been so long since I have been here,seeing SDU is dead. I had that problem on my gtr in 2006 but luckily there was no engine damage,it was inspected by Hytech Engines,race bearings and extended crank collar put in and that was about it. Hopefully yours is sorted now.
    • Would it not be cheaper to just spray nitrous?
    • I've got cash, it's the NA LOLS I'm after now Plus, I've had a few boosted cars, and it is soooo easy to turn a reliable car into a unreliable drivetrain eating money pit monster by just paging up and chasing more My power goal for the NC is to try for a reliable naturally aspirated 150kw or 200hp atw (I'm old, and the old naturally aspirated cherry of 100hp per litre is a goal that I would like to hit), no more is really needed for what I use the car for,  so a additional 5kw is what I'm chasing now,  that 5kw is about $3k away, I think....
    • I dunno. I just go off what I know works. On RB20, the idle switch meant something to the ECU and the potentiometer was ignored. In Nistune, with the switch unplugged, you could bridge the terminals in the loom connector and see IDLE come on and off. Not so by moving the pot. The R32 RB20 ECU and the 26 ECU both look like this. Sure there is the "throttle sensor" (pot) on pin 38, and also sure, the idle switch is also directly wired to the TCU, whereas the pot is only directly conected to the ECU. But I am sure that the throttle position from the pot is passed to the TCU across the data bus on pins 21, 22 & 31. Maybe the ECU likes to know throttle position, but it sure as hell doesn't use it to determine the idle condition. Meanwhile, on the later engines, like the 33 25DET and my Neo, you remove the TPS and move the pot to-from the 0.45V position, and IDLE comes and goes in Nistune. No throttle switch on the ECU diagram. Just the pot.
    • So, good news and bad news Bad news first: The intake plenum is lost in the mail apparently, I haven't paid for it yet, and MX5 Mania are still chasing it up, farking 'Merica postal service  Good news: Any retune will be free if and when it turns up,  I'm still keen for them to throw it on The car goes noticeably better, with only the typical initial take off thingie from a choppy cam and manual transmission, but giving it just a little more RPM than before gives it a smooth take off (and hour or so of peak hour traffic sorted that little skill out) Car made around 145kwatw & 225Nm (Intake may get me to 150kw, maybe....🤣) Weirdly, 145kwatw is the same max power that my standard 2015 WRX STI made a few years ago The cam really comes alive from around 3.5k and keeps making power and holds it flatish all the way to 7k, whereas before torque would drop hard around at 4.5k Drive home was sadly in peak hour, although I did get a little clean air here and there to wind out 1st and 2nd a little bit, and whilst the gains aren't anything for the "boosted boys" to be impressed at, the thing is a blast to drive The sound in the vid is poor, as it is in a undercover yard at work, but, outside, in the wild, it sounds awesomeballs to my ears with all the choppyness I consider it money very well spent for the outcome  Cam specs for reference (Basically the biggest you can fit with stock pistons) 20250417_171807.mp4   LOL, I don't think I will ever grow up  
×
×
  • Create New...