Jump to content
SAU Community

R30 Front Suspension Parts And 1/4 Panels Wanted

JimR30

By JimR30,
in Classic & Vintage (1950's-1980's)

 Share

Recommended Posts

JimR30 Apprentice

JimR30

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

I recently crashed my R30 sedan and messed up the front right suspension pretty bad

Snapped the tension rod, and severly bent the transverse link and the stabilizer bar.

The 2 front guards are a bit buckled too

What are my options for replacement? I'm in Tas where it's going to be near impossible to find r30 parts locally, willing to pay freight

What r31/s13 parts can be fitted? I'm not looking to spend a great deal on the car just yet but if it's an easy job to do then i might look at changing the whole assembly

Cheers

Factory 5 Mentor

Factory 5

Posted
Posted

Where in Tas are you located? Im grow up Hobart area, moved to mainland about 8 years ago

Member on here 'chinna' is up Launceston way, Im pretty sure he MAY be able to help you

Can you provide pics of damage?

By far the cheapest option is to find a wreck and buy that for spare parts.

Otherwise, actual individual parts like guards are getting very hard to find.

Stock parts for replacement will be easiest and no experimenting or dodgying up required!

If you have smished up your front headlights, I will send you a set and all you pay is postage. (from Canberra 2600 to your loc.)

R31 Swaybar will fit, need to fiddle with the x-member mounts a bit and you'll be fine. There are a few dattos (liek 1600, and Stanza etc) that have very similar front end geometry, so you may be able to get a tension rod/castor bar from one of them.... bit of messing about finding it though!

JimR30 Apprentice

JimR30

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the help dude, and the offer!

Headlights are fine though.

I'm in Hobart but a drive anywhere in the state isn't really an issue.

How much modification is involved with fitting S13 suspension?

It's going to be a bitch just to find another r30 in the near future

post-88478-0-73241200-1318760053_thumb.jpg

post-88478-0-80934700-1318760109_thumb.jpg

post-88478-0-71793700-1318760180_thumb.jpg

post-88478-0-87133000-1318760290_thumb.jpg

JimR30 Apprentice

JimR30

Posted
  • Author
Posted

spewing, i got castor arms, lcas and a couiple of gaurds, swy bar braket i got sumwhere.

but im in sydney happy to post

Cheers dude. I'll take all that if i can't find it locally within a month or so!

wouldn't cost more than $50 to post in the one box would it?

a whiteline sway bar is on ebay at the moment for $250 posted. Worth it? Probably not

Factory 5 Mentor

Factory 5

Posted
Posted

$250 for the whiteline is crap.... get a R31 item, its already a few mm biger than the stock R30 swaybar. Normally can be had from wreckers for $20 or so.

I had a big plastic tub of parts sent from Bris to Canb, cost $48, was about 19kg too.

e-go freight or something.....

ydr030 Mentor

ydr030

Posted
Posted

sweet man, i carnt c postage being more than $25.00. (not including guards)

$250 4 whitleline sway bar is a rip! i got both mine front and rear 4 that much!

they doo come with new sway bar brackets and bushs thou...

btw if u want stewart wilkins does sweeet adj castor arms if u wanna head down that route

chinna Collaborator

chinna

Posted
Posted

hey mate i live in lonnie

i have and old front cut sitting around no panels but alll the suspension stuff u need

let me know if ur coming up we can sort some thing out. I am not asking top dollar just tell me what u wanna pay and we can go from there

cheers

chinna Collaborator

chinna

Posted
Posted

i will send you some pics as it has been sitting for a while make sure u happy with the con

price is make me an offer as its been sitting for a while and its just a spare parts car

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • weikleenget
      R32 GTR clutch master cylinder adapters

      By weikleenget · Posted

      I replaced the whole clutch line with the chase bays braided hose, I think it removes that loop, is it the short hose that comes immediately off the slave or is there a drawing in the manual to find what you’re referring to? It was just re-bled when I upgraded to the nismo slave, old slave worked fine but I thought that might help, didn’t change a thing. It’s like the first half of the pedal is pushing air and then when it finally actuates the master the friction zone is tiny. Makes it practically impossible to launch the car
    • Kinkstaah
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • sonicii
      Mechanic in Victoria

      By sonicii · Posted

      I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
×
×
  • Create New...