Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

He's got a point, rust is rust. I don't see anything wrong with people knowing what they're buying.

If you are not hiding anything, there is no reason to get worked up.

Unfortunately rust there most likely means it's the result of poor prep work when spraying that area and possibly poor treatment of rust there prior to the spray.

This is why I would never buy a car with a respray, you will never know what has been hidden till a few years later.

That being said 13.5k plus a good rub back and new paint you will have a tidy GTR for 16k.

Good luck

fair enough buyers need to know what they buy, but implying im untruthful and saying there is rust in the car .. that can be blown up into a million different things .. i wonder how he knew about this rust ? did santa tell him ??

I think any car of the same age you will find some sort of rust!

I remember hearing of certain cars having rust within the first 5 years!

Falcon i think might have been one with rust on the pillar? Could be wrong!

Car is still a bargain. Pm sending now mate.

Don't worry about this guy anyway, Much more vital information has been left out of for sale threads in the past.

Car is still a bargain. Pm sending now mate.

Don't worry about this guy anyway, Much more vital information has been left out of for sale threads in the past.

Thanks dude ! i can already tell ur a top bloke !

haha mad fella .. a guy arranged to come have a look hopefully -_- very soon

if your genuinely interested in the car pm me

abosolutely amazing car ... hard too see it go

maybe if its not sold by the weekend ill take it with me ... wont find anything more decent for $13,5oo

Edited by TwentySix

Real nice car and screw the rust critics....

Rust is common on any area of seams and rubber seals. As water over times is absorbed into the rubber causing the metal Around or under to swell and the paint onto to rise.

This is also very common on sunroofs, Door seams, window seams ect.. Buyer’s don’t need to be PUT off your car by you being OVER honest about the car when advertising. You are selling the car and making an attractive sale. If people want it,... COME LOOK AT IT! If u don’t like it shut up walk away and be happy ur money is still in " your pocket".

As far as it goes i love your car mate! Im trying to sell my Hilux to buy a 32 GTR! Hope u still have it when i sell my hilux!

:):)

I agree, you're bloody nuts! I'm tempted to buy it and I've only just sold my R32 GTR last November for $21k haha

saw one for 19k ... 160 or so kwatws ... =/ the f**k is that shit ? car was clean but some1 needs an engine????

20k gtrs = Very Fast Quick Clean !

years ago i ran 244kws awhile ago checking af mixures and timing ... stock ecu

wonder how much power u can get out of pfc on stock psi

  • 3 months later...

any possibility of more pics? maybe some of undercarriage, interior and more of the outside etc...

also would you be open to taking to a well known jdm garage for a inspection?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Only thing I'd add...is on recommendation from a good diff shop, I've used mineral oil in my diff including the race car for years. The synthetics can be too slippery and glaze the gears
    • 75W90 GL5 is fine. If you aren't sure about the type get one with LSD additive. 
    • Because you're effectively rushing the shift and forcing it to go in - with greater leverage against parts that don't _want_ to go together. Short shift = forcing the gear in harder. Also Redline Heavy Shockproof actively says not to use it in anything with Synchros. Well, it says "not recommended" which is basically as far as anyone will ever say in a product statement to "Do not use" Generally the Redline makes the gearbox feel great... until it fails faster. https://www.redlineoil.com/heavy-shockproof
    • 99.9% of them are viscous diffs. The 0.01% are helicals. They were only option-able in the series 2, as well. I have redline heavy shockproof in my helical. It seems... fine? I don't think anyone is ever going to know until something really breaks and at that point I'm not sure anyone will blame the oil. I just chose it because it's extremely heavy duty and my car will see not-road-legal duty for it. I've also had sadness with various diff oils in the past sweating out everywhere and/or other 'fun' things, with clutch diffs. Given you have a 1.5 way on the shelf, I'd not even bother with the diff in the car and just get to tinkering with it. I would spend the $90 on oil toward the labor of someone else putting the diff in if time poor even lol.
    • I believe mine is helical and not clutch type. During drifting one wheel was spining as if it was open diff so bought kazz 1.5 way and has sat on my shelf for the past 5 years as I want to learn shiming process and do it myself   in meantime thought I change the diff oil hence post here. So any 75-90?   i am pretty sure r34 are helical not clutch lsd as standard . That is gtt ones
×
×
  • Create New...