Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

I'm having some trouble finding a new battery clamp for my skyline, I've been to multiple places such as supercheap, a few auto elecs and have had no luck so far.

Also went to Nissan dealership but they want to slug me $300 for the cable included which I don't want to spend.

I've attached an image of exactly what I'm after, does anyone have an idea where I could find a replacement easily?

Cheers!

post-62654-0-64744800-1318805060_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380341-r33-battery-clamp/
Share on other sites

Should be able to pick up a regular ground battery clamp from anywhere and then just wire in the cable to it. Not sure why you're having so much issue - is it the size of the terminals? I got sexy gold terminals for mine from Jaycar, I think ..

I replaced mine awhile ago. I used some 0 gauge cable, a gold battery terminal connector with volt meter, and a solder/crimp eyelet from Motortraders (now Bursons) for the positive side.

Ground side I used 4 Gauge cable, battery terminal connector and a solder/crimp eyelet.

I replaced mine awhile ago. I used some 0 gauge cable, a gold battery terminal connector with volt meter, and a solder/crimp eyelet from Motortraders (now Bursons) for the positive side.

Ground side I used 4 Gauge cable, battery terminal connector and a solder/crimp eyelet.

FYI, always use the same size ground as your power, the current path is from ground to positive .......not positive to negative like most people think. it can cause voltage flucuations and induce noise in the car stereos

dude shite can the factory stuff its junk, and use car audio cable instead, , solder the connections with a butane torch and electronics solder. , heatshrink the terminal. run a ground from the alternator mouning bolt to the battery , or on cars with rear battery, to the factory ground point in the engine bay, it improves the spark, and charging system on unibody cars.

if the factory has currugated split loom on the wire , put in on the new stuff as well, it would be a chaffing protection issue

while your at it dump the factory baby battery if you have one still. get a sealed AGM or Spiral cell one.. you can do both for under 300 bucks if you shop wisely.

4ga(max 120-150 amps) is min for car starting, 0ga(250-300amps) is better, but much harder to work with and cost a bunch more.

Edited by Carbon 34

FYI, always use the same size ground as your power, the current path is from ground to positive .......not positive to negative like most people think. it can cause voltage flucuations and induce noise in the car stereos

dude shite can the factory stuff its junk, and use car audio cable instead, , solder the connections with a butane torch and electronics solder. , heatshrink the terminal. run a ground from the alternator mouning bolt to the battery , or on cars with rear battery, to the factory ground point in the engine bay, it improves the spark, and charging system on unibody cars.

if the factory has currugated split loom on the wire , put in on the new stuff as well, it would be a chaffing protection issue

while your at it dump the factory baby battery if you have one still. get a sealed AGM or Spiral cell one.. you can do both for under 300 bucks if you shop wisely.

4ga(max 120-150 amps) is min for car starting, 0ga(250-300amps) is better, but much harder to work with and cost a bunch more.

I think I still have some 0 gauge left, I'll swap it over once I get the car back. The good thing is, it didn't cost my anything either as I knew the guys working at Strathfield when it was still arround.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It only looks tidy, as most of the stuff that was on the whole back wall, is now in the trailer to go to the tip, or has been shoved in my 2.2x2.4m "Spare parts room", and now I can't get to anything in there Ha ha ha I could definitely do with a bit more space, but I'd just end up with your problems I'm going to enclose the car port beside the garage, and move a lot of stuff into it I think. OR... It will be setup as a fabrication area, and the main garage will have parts storage in it. I'm not sure yet... Need some pictures of that big shed you've got with the bikes and Skyline in
    • No. I think it's gone. 😭 I think you can get body coloured ones on eBay so I think I'll get one of those... Or just hang a red ribbon from the hole and whack a TOW sticker next to it.
    • Can't say I've had a bad experience with one on my car, then again it only gets washed once or twice a year... The wheels on the other hand, get a good spray often due to my shitty dusty pads.
    • @MBS206 thats pretty neat and tidy to me!  I'll get a photo of mine when I'm out there next. It might require multiple photos to understand the scale of the atrocities though... In total I have 4 sheds of varying sizes and layouts. Main shed is 14x8, second shed is 3x8, third shed is 11x2.5, fourth shed is around 6x4.  All are pretty much full.   The main goal of my cleaning tsunami is to make the main shed predominantly car and motorbikes only. Second shed is my metal fab room (2 x bench grinders, drill press, bench belt sander, metal band saw, scrap metal storage and some of my garden tools.  3rd shed is more bigger garden stuff, storage for engine crane, jack stands, concrete grinder, concrete mixer, air compressor lives there, and it now has two 2mx2m pallet racking shelves with itemised boxes holding building stuff, electrical stuff, plumbing stuff, etc, etc.  The 4th shed is Ryobi electric ride on mower, mini boom sprayer, ancient Kubota tractor, more garden stuff!  I have got a lot of shit....  Then there's the pool house (8mx4m) and the pool pump shed (4mx4m).  I built all of the sheds over the 11 years we've been here.  The main shed was a Ranbuild kit, the rest are all custom made to fit the areas available. Building the main shed taught me a LOT as I had no idea about building anything prior to that!  I've still got one more in me. It will be my man cave which I poured the extra concrete for way back when I poured the concrete for the main shed. The idea is the Skyline will be a centre piece of the main cave once (if...) it's finished.  I told my now 14 year old son yesterday that I will 100% drive him to his year 10 formal in 2 years. Still a long way off but at least I now have a date to work towards! 🤣
    • Modern oils are amazing. Add tyres to that as well.
×
×
  • Create New...