Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ha yer I do like the 4wd and as much as my dream car is a series 2 coupe just not practical for now :P

One definitely good thing learnt from this is there are certain motors for 4wd, I would of otherwise probably bought the wrong type :P So essentially another option is the top half of stagea motor plus intercooler etc?

Does the extra 100cc in the 26 make any sort of difference or is it an engine for different purposes?

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

26 can be used, but requires a bit more stuffing around, wouldnt bother with an RB20, in standard form they only have a hand full more killerwasps and lack low down torque

Cheapest and easiest option is the 4wd RB25, and you can use the coin saved over buying a 26 on a bigger turbo etc

The RB26 has solid lifters and twin throttle bodies etc etc etc. It is a different engine really, and if you do have one it will take way more thrashing than a RB25 could ever take. Its usually $4000 just for the engine and no turbos.

I know the RB26 has the same amount of work as the RB25 would, minus the pipe work involved, its needs some small body mods. Ive seen it done, the chassis rails are the same in a GTS-4 as a GTR same goes for engine mounting and gearbox case. You can literaly drop the RB26 into the engine bay. All you need to change is the clutch, ecu, wiring, and intercooler and exhaust. But like everyone is hinting, Its a lot of money compared to a RB25, where im sure you will have as much fun either way.

I did buy a RWD engine when i was rebuilding my GTS-4 and i used everything internal which was no problem but seriously there is no way in hell i would go through what was needed to use the block. Its a totaly different shape. Just remember make sure its a 4WD RB## what ever!

The RB26 has solid lifters and twin throttle bodies etc etc etc. It is a different engine really, and if you do have one it will take way more thrashing than a RB25 could ever take. Its usually $4000 just for the engine and no turbos.

I wouldnt be so sure about that.

Many more popped RB26s around than 25s

and they have 6 throttle bodies not 2

Solid lifters mean precisely shit unless you want to rev it to 10k

Ports are the same but 26s have slightly larger valves and have 12mm head studs instead of 11mm

Oil system is identical

you could do a 300rwks Rb25 for the price of an old shitty standard Rb26

But like everyone is hinting, Its a lot of money compared to a RB25, where im sure you will have as much fun either way.

Yeah , better value for money in the end.

I always thought it was a twin throttle body x 3? I don't mean just 1 throttle body if thats what you thought. Probably right in saying people pop RB26's because of the restriction in the oiling system and cooling system on them not alowing to much more over the stock power? I can see how a RB26 needs a lot more money spent on it.

Everyone wants to REV to 10K? i know i do. Problem is there is to much info to talk about these things like this just over the internet, everyone needs to get a there hands onto these things more often. If someone was rebuilding there car on these forums i would drive right to there house to get stuck in with them.

Fryday13 - have you thought about looking into getting an engine sooner than you think and buying an engine stand and working on it over some time out of an engine bay ..... if you have space? Everyone i know has done it the engine bay way and would rather the engine stand now.

Fryday13 - have you thought about looking into getting an engine sooner than you think and buying an engine stand and working on it over some time out of an engine bay ..... if you have space? Everyone i know has done it the engine bay way and would rather the engine stand now.

Yer ive looked into it briefly and I would love to im just afraid my knowledge would be lacking and I havent got the money now sort of thing. Space is definitely something I could get though

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I swear at my GKTech ones every time I have to take them apart and replace a spherical. But I wouldn't swap them for anything else. They absolutely slay every other option, at least in terms of how they actually work. You sure you don't want to live with bearings? I mean, they don't have "ball bearings". They are rod ends and sphericals throughout. Tough as nuts, even though I have found more than one way to wear them out.
    • From when I was looking at getting the 86 engineered for the turbo, the joint said to put in a few euro 5 or 6 cats, then tune the car on a nice clean E85 tune When I was looking at a turbo for the MX5, it was basically the same thing, a couple of cats and a nice clean tune Although, it will depend on the year of the Jeep IRT emmisions standards required, and what mods are done, especially if it has a newer engine installed that requires a higher Euro
    • Yeah - but it's not actually that easy. There are limits for HC, CO, NOx and particulates. Particulates shouldn't be a concern in any petrol engine unless trying to comply to the very latest Euro standard. But getting a tune right so that all the others stay within limits AT THE SAME TIME is not a trivial exercise. You couldn't possibly get it right by just guessing at the tuner's dyno, unless he had a 4 gas analyser up the pipe, which is not often the case these days. It used to be. Every decent shop that did "tune ups" (as opposed to tuning) would have a 4 gas analsyer. Perhaps there's still quite a few of them around these days. But most "tuners" are only watching O2 and power readings.
    • Slight segway but the most expensive part of the whole thing which I would have thought would only be required for an engine size/type swap, not a VIV test, is emissions testing.  That's when you get into the big bucks.  I can't remember the exact price now but I got quotes for the GT-R based on swapping to RB30 (not that anyone bothers doing it legally anymore...) and it was around $4500 just for that alone.  The guy that does them manipulates the tune on the vehicle to make sure it passes.  The cheaper option is to book into Kangan Batman Tafe (I think that's where it was) and hire their tester.  Allegedly you're not allowed in there with the car though so not in a position to tweak anything to make sure the vehicle passes.  I'm sure in this day and age of ultra tuneable ECU's you could get the tuner to program a special efficiency (clean) tune that emits the lowest amount of particulates possible that would pass the test.  It might only make 50kW's but as long as it passed who cares!
    • I'm sure he has left signs, or, he is looking down, laughing That's my cunning plan for when I leave, lots of half finished projects, with no rhyme or reason of where I was actually up to, just to keep everyone on their toes
×
×
  • Create New...