Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My 1992 R32 GTS-T had an AVO turboworld boost gauge installed in the drivers side vent (to the lower right of the steering wheel) when I bought it.

It has always been a bit useless as it doesn't light up during night driving.

Recently I realised it is much more accurate than the in dash boost gauge and decided I needed to get the backlight wired up (assuming it works) in anticipation of hooking up a turbotech boost controller.

After pulling off the lower drivers side dash panel and pulling the gauge out of the vent a bit I found a red wire and a black wire coming from each side of the gauge housing, the two red wires have been spliced together with another wire attached running to the headlight switch, the two black wires are also spliced together.

After taking off the dash surround with all the switches I could not find any point where the gauge may have been hooked up in the past and the wire connected to the two reds went no where.

Wondering what the easiest way to wire up the backlight to get it to turn on with the headlights, preferentially parkers but otherwise low beam/high beam.

Also has anyone heard of the brand AVO Turboworld before? Is it supposed to be decent?

The boost gauge is mechanical and is joined with a t piece to the stock gauge line.

Edited by Luke HCR32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380566-wiring-aftermarket-boost-gauge/
Share on other sites

Will that require me pulling out the head unit or the centre console surround? I have an aftermarket pioneer head unit.

I did notice one of the wires to my fog light switch had a bit of a nick in it (red and green one at top left of plug) could this have been the original source?

You dont need to put a additional fuse in. If youre going to short something and draw so much current, the original fuse for the headlight switch will blow. Sooooo.... theres already a fuse in the circuit. Just splice use the headunit wires.

You can even use the cigarette lighter wires! Shit you could even use youre odometer dash lights as youre source.

Black red. Easy peasy.

Edited by eat_me

make sure whatever you wire it to, it only lights up when the car is on or ACC is on.

some plp make the the mistake and wire it up so its on constantly (common issue with CD players) and they wonder why their batteries keep dying lol

Cheers guys, ended up hooking it up to that frayed fog light switch wire and fixing the wire at the same time, comes on when I turn the headlights to parker or on. Grounded it to the stud above the bonnet release.

post-82729-0-24601100-1319020506_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I used the radium thing, makes the whole parallel assembly a lot more compact compared to any other way of doing it 
    • Racetronix also sells those ethanol content sensor bypass blocks. Adapter, Flex-Fuel E85 Sensor High-Flow Bypass, In-line No Sensor (ADF-FLEX-NS): Adapters - Flex Fuel | Racetronix Ethanol content sensor are originally designed to be on the feed line. These bypass blocks are meant to be ran in the feed line and not return. The continental ethanol content sensors have a 3/8" ID and not 5/16". This is why they are ran on the return line directly in conjunction with a low threshold sampling value VS in the feed with one of these blocks.    Haha we think alike, I used both original feed/return for 8AN feed, and one of the Hicas lines as a 6AN return. I also capped off and left the other Hicas line as a spare. 
    • Interesting, I haven't read about the issue with oil getting into the speedo in the cluster before. I'll have to take more notice with mine. The speedo on my R32's when I've run factory diff and tyre size have never been accurate as far as I can remember. The non Type-M GTS-t did come with 15" 5 stud wheels and smaller brakes, but that's less than 5% of them.
    • Good to hear the condenser you picked up off my brother worked all good. Do you think there could be an issue with your AC compressor itself or the clutch on it then? I don't know a lot about them so I can't really help but keen to hear what it ends up being. Keep the build thread going man, it's nice to look back on over time.
    • This is a story of my life things, I learned eventually (thanks to someone calling me out) that my enthusiasm for discussing and sharing ideas that it came across as arrogance and I'm like... WTF?!    One thing I'm pretty sure I justifiably pride myself on is knowing that everyone will have things they can teach you, and you're always going to find out that something you think you know turns out wrong - you just don't know what it is until you get there.   Just the bursting enthusiasm that comes with ADHD when you hit something that gives you dopamine dumps can come across like you think everyone else is wrong or don't matter. But yeah, I'm a software engineer by trade and also do tuning in weekends and 100% have long had a reputation for  quickly making connections when resolving problems or forming solutions that I've sometimes had to take people form a long walk from start to end to explain how I ended up where I did when it's seemed "too simple" when I've stated my initial case, and had the "WTF" type reaction when they've realised how much was actually considered haha.   My reward is that I get all the curly problems thrown at me.
×
×
  • Create New...