Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys.. Just finished +ting an rb20de. As a de the motor was a good, strong, powerful motor.

I used:

RB20DET Manifold, Wastegate flange welded on.

RB20DET turbo

RB20DET j pipe

FMIC setup

Walbro 500hp Fuel Pump

Fuel Pressure Regulator

RB20DET ECU and Injectors

Adjusted timing all over the show..

Now when it is warm, and I go for it in second it boost and pulls fine, (4 psi spring)

As soon as I dump the clutch and sit on the spot doing a skid it 'farts and pops' around 4.5k - 5k revs.

But then boosting in a straight line it builds boost and pulls fine.

Anyone have any clues? Kinda feel as if its getting to much fuel, anyone know what the fuel pressure should be at at idle?

Tried to do a search, nothing came up.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380582-rb20det-help/
Share on other sites

get new coils, and fix the fuel as well, stock map will being running 9-10:1 at that load if you are running more than stock boost, also plug gap, get it down to 0.8 or lower.

It will be a combination of running too rich and poor spark causing the misfire.

Edited by Rolls
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380582-rb20det-help/#findComment-6068753
Share on other sites

If it didn't he would have had to change it to make it run.

What do you mean? :huh: Or are you saying it wouldn't run at all so he changed it already.

The AFM wasn't listed as what he used/changed so I am assuming he is using the stock NA one, hence I asked if they're the same or not.

I've had a Z32 plugged into a car with the PowerFC reset and AFM set to default and it still started

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380582-rb20det-help/#findComment-6070535
Share on other sites

What do you mean? :huh: Or are you saying it wouldn't run at all so he changed it already.

If it was different it wouldn't drive at all or would drive so badly he would have noticed by now. Wouldn't just be a mild misfire, tune would be completely out.

So knowing that I would say it is A) not different, or B) he has already changed it.

Edited by Rolls
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380582-rb20det-help/#findComment-6070544
Share on other sites

Cheers for the input. FYI all RB AFMS are the same, apart from I think RB25DET which has the purple sticker

Anyway, with the same setup above the problem has fixed itself. Adjusted timing even more, and running a 7psi spring, and adjusted the Fuel Pressure down a little it is flipping quick. feels faster than a genuine 20det. Cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380582-rb20det-help/#findComment-6077877
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, well, in that case, the suspension specialist is either a moron, or you aren't understanding what he was trying to tell you. Nismo arms are not really different than stock arms. Both are fixed geometry. I don't know if the Nismo ones are a little shorter than the stockers (or perhaps even a little longer) or the same length, but....if you swap from stock to Nismo, whatever happens to one side will happen to the other side. It will not cause it to steer left or right. That is unless you have adjustable bushes in your stockers, and they happen to be adjusted to dial out some bent chassis shenanigans. But, if that were the case, you'd just put adjustables in the Nismo arms anyway, because Nismo arms are essentially just expensive stock arms. And doing a wheel alignment is just a weekly thing in my world. I have had the suspension apart so many times this year that I've lost count and just about worn out a torque wrench. I'm out in the shed right now cutting up some alloy section and making bases for my new stringline setup. Got to make new swivel plates next, then I'm good to do toe properly, as well as camber and bump steer.
    • Yeah, nah. Not a thing. The gasket between the top of the plenum and the runners is far more likely to blow out when it gets old, and not really at ~14 psi. These things have been run to double that for 30 years without that being a common thing.
    • I plan to pull the intake manifold off and check the gaskets, i read that the block to manifold gasket can blow over 14psi and when i picked up the car it was set to 1.2bar on the controller. Send the injectors out for cleaning. Ill also pull the cam covers off and do an inspection, check some valve lash. Someone also said that the timing belt can rub or vibrate against the belt cover and make that sound. Definitely need to get an AFR gauge on it, if it was lean idling im sure it wont be happy
    • Well, it is an unusual noise. Use a 2 foot long bit of garden hose stuck in your ear as a stethoscope to pin it down to a definite location. We'll never work it out across the internet.
×
×
  • Create New...