Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

well this thing is crazy LOL

im running Dunlop sports tyres 295 and just spins them up need to learn throtle control abit better..

Though im getting abit of blow by into my catch can so need to sort this out been thinking of adding a secondary catch can that sits ontop of the covers then breathers going into anther can..

maybe even a return into the sump..

  On 24/02/2012 at 11:46 PM, BMYHOE said:

well this thing is crazy LOL

im running Dunlop sports tyres 295 and just spins them up need to learn throtle control abit better..

Though im getting abit of blow by into my catch can so need to sort this out been thinking of adding a secondary catch can that sits ontop of the covers then breathers going into anther can..

maybe even a return into the sump..

Wait until you track it and see if it blows oil as well.

I think I have solved the problem not with a drain to the sump but with a sump breather. I installed two 1/2 in outlets from the sump - the intention was one for a breather and the other for an oil return but in fact they are both function as breathers at the moment. Very little oil comes out (and what does could be attributed to the fact that it is well overfilled) but a fair amount of air comes out - not necessarily blow by but possibly pressure created by the crank.

  On 25/02/2012 at 12:36 AM, KiwiRS4T said:

Wait until you track it and see if it blows oil as well.

I think I have solved the problem not with a drain to the sump but with a sump breather. I installed two 1/2 in outlets from the sump - the intention was one for a breather and the other for an oil return but in fact they are both function as breathers at the moment. Very little oil comes out (and what does could be attributed to the fact that it is well overfilled) but a fair amount of air comes out - not necessarily blow by but possibly pressure created by the crank.

ok so before you added the breather you had the catch can filling up?

also how is your pvc hooked up? & your breather setup how have you made that work?

i plumbed up the drain back to the sump but it is still filling up the catch can.. though i only have a 1 litre catch can cause of no room.. been trying to get a fabricator to make one as big as possible whith the room have.

  On 26/02/2012 at 1:08 AM, BMYHOE said:

ok so before you added the breather you had the catch can filling up?

also how is your pvc hooked up? & your breather setup how have you made that work?

i plumbed up the drain back to the sump but it is still filling up the catch can.. though i only have a 1 litre catch can cause of no room.. been trying to get a fabricator to make one as big as possible whith the room have.

I am currently evaluating progress and waiting for my next track day to decide on a permanent set up but I have two catch cans at present. The two breathers from the sump go into one catch can which is vented to atmos atm. The pvc hole is blocked off. The two breathers on the cam covers go to another catch can which is also vented to atmos. There is no oil going into the catch can from the cam covers now (as opposed to heaps before). There was one episode where oil went into the other catch can from the sump breathers but that could be because I overfilled it by a couple of litres (not as bad as it sounds because there is a 10mm adapter plate between the RB30 and my awd sump). I think the combination of smaller restrictors and the vents on the sump have done the trick. There is quite a bit of pressure built up in the sump and part of the theory is that this impedes the flow of oil back to the sump so it goes out the top instead.

If there is no more oil as such coming out when at the track I would be keen to fit a proper oil/air seperator or a properly baffled "catch can" and then have the catch can vented to an inlet somewhere so that the is some suction applied to the sump and also nothing going to atmosphere.

Actually its going on the dyno on Friday so this will probably be a good test as last time it also spewed out oil everywhere after a few seconds high speed running under load.

Have you got a drain from the head to the sump? Does it run to a new fitting? As an experiment try disconnecting the drain from the sump and putting it into a temporary container (to see how much if any oil comes out that way) and fitting a breather hose to the inlet/outlet in the sump and running that up to a catch can if you have a spare or just poke it into any vented or open container and see what happens. Have you got restrictors in the oil supply to the head?

  On 26/02/2012 at 11:40 AM, KiwiRS4T said:

I am currently evaluating progress and waiting for my next track day to decide on a permanent set up but I have two catch cans at present. The two breathers from the sump go into one catch can which is vented to atmos atm. The pvc hole is blocked off. The two breathers on the cam covers go to another catch can which is also vented to atmos. There is no oil going into the catch can from the cam covers now (as opposed to heaps before). There was one episode where oil went into the other catch can from the sump breathers but that could be because I overfilled it by a couple of litres (not as bad as it sounds because there is a 10mm adapter plate between the RB30 and my awd sump). I think the combination of smaller restrictors and the vents on the sump have done the trick. There is quite a bit of pressure built up in the sump and part of the theory is that this impedes the flow of oil back to the sump so it goes out the top instead.

If there is no more oil as such coming out when at the track I would be keen to fit a proper oil/air seperator or a properly baffled "catch can" and then have the catch can vented to an inlet somewhere so that the is some suction applied to the sump and also nothing going to atmosphere.

Actually its going on the dyno on Friday so this will probably be a good test as last time it also spewed out oil everywhere after a few seconds high speed running under load.

Have you got a drain from the head to the sump? Does it run to a new fitting? As an experiment try disconnecting the drain from the sump and putting it into a temporary container (to see how much if any oil comes out that way) and fitting a breather hose to the inlet/outlet in the sump and running that up to a catch can if you have a spare or just poke it into any vented or open container and see what happens. Have you got restrictors in the oil supply to the head?

yes i have the rear head drain connected though its sharing the fitting on the hot side with the turbo drain. the fitting is screwed into the block so it sits ontop of the oil in the sump.

the best way to test what you are saying would be on a dyno?

not sure of oil restrictors sizes as the motor was built before i brought the car. bit of a guessing game... dont really wanna pull the head now its running so nice.. pinch.gif

also the breathers you have coming out of your sump do the breathers sit at the bottom of the sump (under the oil) or ontop of sump (over the oil)

Edited by BMYHOE
  On 27/02/2012 at 2:13 AM, BMYHOE said:

have you heard of anyone fitting a vaccum pump to prevent this?

Yes its been done (probably Google to find examples) - over complication in my view - may as well go to dry sump!
  On 27/02/2012 at 2:12 AM, BMYHOE said:

yes i have the rear head drain connected though its sharing the fitting on the hot side with the turbo drain. the fitting is screwed into the block so it sits ontop of the oil in the sump.

the best way to test what you are saying would be on a dyno?

not sure of oil restrictors sizes as the motor was built before i brought the car. bit of a guessing game... dont really wanna pull the head now its running so nice.. pinch.gif

also the breathers you have coming out of your sump do the breathers sit at the bottom of the sump (under the oil) or ontop of sump (over the oil)

Its not recommended to run the head drain into the turbo drain although its an engine out job to put a new drain in the sump (full explanation somewhere in this 40 page thread! http://www.skylinesa..._sk+oil+control

but yes you could try running the drain into a pot of some sort - but with no breather in the sump oil may well be pushed out of that drain - would be interesting to see.

The breathers I have are on the opposite side of the sump from the turbo drain just in front of the driveshaft and (necessarily!!) as high as possible in the sump and above the oil level.

A lot of people still don't put small enough restrictors in with a high output oil pump on an RB30. It won't be a problem on the street but will be on the dyno or track.

since i have changed the setup with the drain back most of the excess oil seems to be draining back into the sump.

though if i hold it though a few gears i'll get around 200mls out of the breather of the catch can.

its alot better then the 2 litres i lost before

have you got an oil pressure gauge? if so whats the oil pressure at ........ also have you done a compression test maybe your rings are a little bit worn prob not if your making big power but still worth a look

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...