How To Install The Air/fuel Ratio Gauge?

[Alfred Y]

Hi every one, recently I had purchased a AEM air/ fuel gauge, it comes with all the sensor and wire, but my mechanic said my front pipe doesn't have two holes to fit the O2 sensors. the alternative way is to drill another hole on the front pipe which he is not recommend me to do it. So is there any way to fit the gauge without cutting or drilling? My car is the 98 ER34 GTT thank you.

[Hanaldo]

Hi every one, recently I had purchased a AEM air/ fuel gauge, it comes with all the sensor and wire, but my mechanic said my front pipe doesn't have two holes to fit the O2 sensors. the alternative way is to drill another hole on the front pipe which he is not recommend me to do it. So is there any way to fit the gauge without cutting or drilling? My car is the 98 ER34 GTT thank you.

Pfft. Why would he recommend you don't do it? There's no other way, unless you want to duct tape it inside your tail pipe, that will probably work pretty well

There's no problem cutting into the front pipe and welding the bung for the sensor. If you have a stainless pipe then you will want to cut it using a Tig welder, drill bits or hole saws will just make a mess and break in the process. It shouldn't be a problem for any decent exhaust shop, it took my mate about an hour to block off the original bung, cut the new hole, weld in the new bung, and clean it all up. That included a lot of chatting lol.

[89CAL]

You can drill stainless just have to go on and off with your pressure as it gets stronger as it heats up.

I drilled and welded my AEM sensor in just in front of the gearbox. It's not a big job to pull the dump off and get the bung welded in. Put anti sieze on the dump bolts when you put it back together. Will help a ton if you ever have to pull it off again

[Hanaldo]

You can drill stainless just have to go on and off with your pressure as it gets stronger as it heats up.

I drilled and welded my AEM sensor in just in front of the gearbox. It's not a big job to pull the dump off and get the bung welded in. Put anti sieze on the dump bolts when you put it back together. Will help a ton if you ever have to pull it off again

Yeh it can be done with a drill, much better to blast a hole with a tig though.

Agree with everything else. If you get it done professionally, it shouldn't cost more than $50.

[Crans]

Is there a narrow band simulated output on that controller? If yes then Remove your narrow band sensor and replace it with the wideband.

Cut the connector off your narrow band sensor and solder it on to the NB sim output and then plug it back in to the standard loom.

Problem solved

[89CAL]

How are you going to get the gauge to read the AFR's then?

AEM recommend the sensor be put about a metre (from memory) away from the turbine outlet, that's why I put mine where I did. Having said that, I've used an innovate in the stock location and it was fine

If you have a power fc then you can get them to turn o2 feedback off and get your tuner to tune the lean cruise values in. This is how I have mine although I've retained the stock sensor. It would mean that you could put the AEM sensor in the stock o2 sensor position

But this is if you don't think you need o2 feedback for your lean cruise

[Hanaldo]

How are you going to get the gauge to read the AFR's then?

Well some widebands allow you to hook up a wire to run a signal to the ECU and then tell it to output a narrowband signal through that wire while still displaying the wideband data on the gauge. However, looking through my AEM manual, I don't think you can do that with this gauge. I know you can set it to display a narrowband signal by adjusting the rotary switch position on the back of the gauge, but then you no longer get the wideband.

[Crans]

NB Sim should display Wideband data on the gauge and output NB data to the ecu.

If this device does not support it get a bung welded in for the WB sensor

[SargeRX8]

Most people turn off their o2 sensor if they can. Mine is off and I'll be fitting my wideband in the stock bung. I've read more people having no issues then people having issues, on street cars. If you do high rpm driving (track, drifting, hill climbs) then move it away from the turbine.

[Room42]

Is there a narrow band simulated output on that controller? If yes then Remove your narrow band sensor and replace it with the wideband.

Cut the connector off your narrow band sensor and solder it on to the NB sim output and then plug it back in to the standard loom.

Problem solved

This. And... there is a whole thread about this just a 2 pages back if anyone cared to look or let this guy know.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/373464-wideband-kits/

[r33_racer]

So long as you drill with a small pilot first like a 1/8" or 3mm it should go straight through easily then just open it up in steps. The weld in bung I have here required a 1" hole for it to drop in and rest on the shoulder of the boss. If you dont have that size drill bit, then go as big as you can and use a die grinder to open it up. Drill with slow speed and plenty of pressure. If you have someone handy to help they can be squirting water onto the end of the drill bit constantly so it doesnt heat up too much and go blunt.

If you need to buy some drill bits, get some cobalt bits that are made for drilling harder materials. That will make your job easier.