Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

no its a stupid idea....2k will get you some really nice wheels..painting the stockies black will just look like exactly that..stockies can look ok if you lower your car right and put some spacers in so they fill out the guards a bit better..painting them a diffferent colour rarely makes them look any better..usually worse

you dont have to spend 2k on wheels anyway..full set of rotas can be had for 1k and look the business or, learn to ebay.

Just remember Stance is more important than rims..putting 2k rims on a car that isnt lowered right will just look like ass and you would be better offf with stockies..

Arts get off ya high horse mate.

Op- there is nothing wrong with painting the stockies, its a great thing to do, especially if you are on a budget. Make sure you take the time to do a quality job tho. If done rite it looks fine, but at the end of the day they will still be stockies. It will be fine until you can save up enough to get some good quality after market ones.

Good luck

Adam

They did so much wrong it's not even funny, I bet their paint is cracked and peeling now.

I dont see what they really did wrong...its like 4 simple steps. I basically did the same thing and my wheels are still freshly coated with clear after almost 8 months.

They didn't chemically bond the layers, and they didn't show or mention any mechanical bonding either, though they may have done that off camera. At 8:03, that spraying technique is terrible, he is spraying like a 14 year old graffiti artist. The other bloke has much better control and technique using the gun.

what do you mean by chemically bonding the layers?

When you spray, you shouldn't let the paint dry between layers. If it does, you need to sand it back to create a rough surface for the paints to mechanically bond. This will never be as strong as a chemical bond, which is where you let each layer dry to a tack before spraying the next layer. This means all the layers will dry together, creating a chemical adhesion that is much much stronger than just a mechanical interlock.

Back on my High horse here but....

it can look ok if you paint up some GTR rims or something and they are painted PROPERLY...

but painting the standard rims black looks shit..if you have shit rims to begin with painting them black will NOT solve the problem, they will still look shit..

now dont get me wrong it is ok to have standard rims as it keeps your car looking stock which is cool, but painting them black is not making it look any better at all, unless maybe your car is black and your trying to be super stealthy...:ninja:

they say you cant polish a turd and while you can paint one, a painted turd is still a turd

I've seen black stock rims on a white car which looked good, I've got silver stockies on mine which I'm happy with for road use, stock rims are good for a lot of reasons.

Paint them black, doooo iiiiitttttt

+1 ^

Artz, I don't know what you're on about mate. Standard R34 GTT wheels are not baaaad looking, they may not be as eye catching as a nice set of Jap wheels but they still go alright. Especially when painted black. When they are unpainted they look like standard wheels. When they are painted, they do a good job of setting the car off.

I mean this:

post-18854-1219725328_thumb.jpg

Compared to this:

17122009013.jpg

It's a no brainer.

When you spray, you shouldn't let the paint dry between layers. If it does, you need to sand it back to create a rough surface for the paints to mechanically bond. This will never be as strong as a chemical bond, which is where you let each layer dry to a tack before spraying the next layer. This means all the layers will dry together, creating a chemical adhesion that is much much stronger than just a mechanical interlock.

I agree with Hanaldo on this, makes the job much nicer.

If the paint on the rims to begin with is alright, then u dont neeed to primer them then paint them as such, if u use a light grade scotchbrite and scuff the wheels up and give them a good coat of paint (2-3 layers) then that should be easily suffficient. havent had any problems with doing that (and thats been on the bodywork of my old skyline which lasted me a year with no issues what so ever)

Just my 2 cents :thumbsup:

+1 ^

Artz, I don't know what you're on about mate. Standard R34 GTT wheels are not baaaad looking, they may not be as eye catching as a nice set of Jap wheels but they still go alright. Especially when painted black. When they are unpainted they look like standard wheels. When they are painted, they do a good job of setting the car off.

I mean this:

post-18854-1219725328_thumb.jpg

Compared to this:

17122009013.jpg

It's a no brainer.

Perfect example. Seeing the difference is almost motivating me to do mine :blush:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • looking forward to your t56 swap man its a game changer if it works! 
    • So, when are you trying the new GR86 or BRZ?
    • Uncle Duncan Yeap, FI Interchiller  Works well, normal IAT's cruising with the WTA only went from 50°c+ to 25-30°c with the interchiller  Before, when on it hard, the IAT would see 80-90°c, now, the highest has been was around 38°c IIRC IAT is measured under the blower hat I recommend it for the street or strip where your only on it hard for 10 or so seconds, but it wouldn't be efficient for sustained track use as it would heat soak from the AC turning off or whatever it does during WOT to protect the compressor It really needs the AC running for it to not heat soak and keep the WTA coolant chilled My WTA coolant temps when just cruising is around 2°c
    • Hey Mark...sorry to interrupt your career change to hair dressing... but...did you ever fit the interchiller to the commodore, and if so how was it? And, who made it?
    • I've been pondering this, I really enjoy the convertible thing, for me, it's like riding a motorbike, without all the issue of riding a motorbike, mainly, my old sore arthritic joints getting beaten up, and, being able to do it in shorts and a T-shirt and not needing a helmet and all the other gear required, especially like wearing jackets and pants in the summer, or needing 6 layers of cloths in the winter, or not having wet weather gear handy when your 100km away from home on the bike when it decides to start raining As for the hard top and its Coupe look, whilst I do lose all that open top feeling that I really enjoy, from my experience with the NB with a detachable hard top, the cabin is a much nicer place to be, the difference in noise for one, a hard top quietens down the interior, alot, with the soft top up or down it's pretty noisy, which, after 5 or so hours, can get tiring But, as you stated, the detachable hard top totally changes the look of the car, in a really good way, and for me, the look of a detachable hard top is so much better than the PRHT which looks more like a after thought with its weird bulbous rear roof line For me, the minimal effort of putting in on, or storing it after removing it, is well worth the time and effort for the look alone And yes, I'm sure the next owner will be grateful for it as well.......  
×
×
  • Create New...