Announcements
-
Similar Content
-
-
Latest Posts
-
By CanadianGuy · Posted
Well was troubleshooting what sounded like an rpm limit being set on the car just as it was building boost and noticed my wastegate is open at idle. As I was using a prybar to put some pressure on the rod to see if I had any binding doesn’t it slip and end up hitting my fuel injector resistor mounted on the passenger side firewall HARD. Checked all my wires and everything’s good but now the car won’t start 🙃 Upon initial turn of the key it sounds like it’s about to start for a split second before it just cranks. Strong smell of fuel, car has spark. Now I’m assuming my smacking of the resistor messed something up internally and the injectors are dumping a ton of fuel (plugs are wet and even QuickStart/ether won’t do anything after cranking a few times it’s so flooded) This make sense in other people’s minds before I drop the money on a new resistor? Car went from idling mint to not starting at all after that one slip -
Yes sir, it’s very stable on helmet with GoPro hero10 and the stabilizer settings enabled -
Finally got my temp tags for registration for my R34 GTR, and decided to take it on its first coffee run: https://youtu.be/M5JobY33uGM?si=80woEYXWrmPsOk3f
-
-
I would assume the hot pipe would be referring to the intercooler piping that comes right from the turbo headed towards the intercooler, and the cold side would the be the pipe after the intercooler headed towards the intake /throttle body? if this is the case, do I want it as close as possible to the turbo or furthest from, to get the most accurate reading? and would the factory fitting on the turbo elbow be the perfect location for the pressure line for the boost controller??
-
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now