Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 203
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

.....dammit...why do all these things happen when I have no money.....again f**k you GFC and making me loose 2 jobs this year

Alvin...you are not allowed to strip the car until next year!!!!

ahahahahahaha, if i can fix the left indicator blowing fuses today, i might just hold the car till rego runs out. lol.

otherwise, i'm butchering her today.

as for cheapie china manifolds, if he can weld the cracks, no problem!

looking good zebra, cant wait to see it finished.

you're not fussed about using cheapy china manifold and it cracking in time?

Cheers, China manifold isnt permanent, just needed to get the car going asap....Will go fancy everything down the track

ahahahahahaha, if i can fix the left indicator blowing fuses today, i might just hold the car till rego runs out. lol.

otherwise, i'm butchering her today.

as for cheapie china manifolds, if he can weld the cracks, no problem!

hahah

If you have a aftermarket stereo in the car I can guarantee that is what is causing your issues, Headunit/amp and indicator wiring all run off the same plug under the head unit

Cheers, China manifold isnt permanent, just needed to get the car going asap....Will go fancy everything down the track

hahah

If you have a aftermarket stereo in the car I can guarantee that is what is causing your issues, Headunit/amp and indicator wiring all run off the same plug under the head unit

well, yeah, headunit's aftermarket, there's some aftermarket sub in it, but i have no idea where it is. LOL.

and, issue was that the bulb's casing itself is f**ked.

zebra what happened to you rc engine store?

Its still there but nothing happening with it :(

well, yeah, headunit's aftermarket, there's some aftermarket sub in it, but i have no idea where it is. LOL.

and, issue was that the bulb's casing itself is f**ked.

ah that sucks

Sub will be in the parcel shelf in the middle, factory fitted 10" jobbie, sits under the same cloth covered thing-o that holds the rear middle brake light

I was thinking yesterday that there is no way this engine has 230,000ks on it.

It is way too clean inside..the water jackets look way to clean...like brand new....not a hint of stain on them...the engine has definitely been out of the car before and the sump has non factory looking sealant on it...wonder if it has had some epic rebuild and I find a set of JUN rods and pistons lol??

here is hoping.

Either way it gives me confidence to lean on it with the new turbo

I was thinking yesterday that there is no way this engine has 230,000ks on it.

It is way too clean inside..the water jackets look way to clean...like brand new....not a hint of stain on them...the engine has definitely been out of the car before and the sump has non factory looking sealant on it...wonder if it has had some epic rebuild and I find a set of JUN rods and pistons lol??

here is hoping.

Either way it gives me confidence to lean on it with the new turbo

mine has 203k kms

I think Toyota engines in general always seem clean inside. I changed the waterpump in my IS200, inside the radiator and the water pump housing (whole cooling system) were like new. My car has done just under 200,000km.

Comparing it to my Skyline (130,000km) and Bluebird (300,000km??? ODO stopped working years ago) - Thier cooling systems seem sh*t, even with changing coolant every year.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you are keeping the current calipers you need to keep the current disc as the spacing of the caliper determines the disc diameter. Have you trial fitted the GTS brakes fit on a GTSt hub or is this forward planning? There could be differences in caliper mount spacing, backing plate and even hub shape that could cause an issue.
    • Hi there I have a r33 gts with 4 stud small brakes, I'm going to convert to 5 stud but keep the small brakes, what size rotor would I need?
    • First up, I wouldn't use PID straight up for boost control. There's also other control techniques that can be implemented. And as I said, and you keep missing the point. It's not the ONE thing, it's the wrapping it up together with everything else in the one system that starts to unravel the problem. It's why there are people who can work in a certain field as a generalist, IE a IT person, and then there are specialists. IE, an SQL database specialist. Sure the IT person can build and run a database, and it'll work, however theyll likely never be as good as a specialist.   So, as said, it's not as simple as you're thinking. And yes, there's a limit to the number of everything's in MCUs, and they run out far to freaking fast when you're designing a complex system, which means you have to make compromises. Add to that, you'll have a limited team working on it, so fixing / tweaking some features means some features are a higher priority than others. Add to that, someone might fix a problem around a certain unrelated feature, and that change due to other complexities in the system design, can now cause a new, unforseen bug in something else.   The whole thing is, as said, sometimes split systems can work as good, and if not better. Plus when there's no need to spend $4k on an all in one solution, to meet the needs of a $200 system, maybe don't just spout off things others have said / you've read. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet, including in translated service manuals, and data sheets. Going and doing, so that you know, is better than stating something you read. Stating something that has been read, is about as useful as an engineering graduate, as all they know is what they've read. And trust me, nearly every engineering graduate is useless in the real world. And add to that, if you don't know this stuff, and just have an opinion, maybe accept what people with experience are telling you as information, and don't keep reciting the exact same thing over and over in response.
    • How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.
    • That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
×
×
  • Create New...