Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi folks,

I've got a few items up for sale. I'm located Sydney, Inner West. My contact number is 0412 509 637. PM me or give me a call. Cheers!

1. R32 GTR rims with Yokohama A048R semi slicks

- 5x114.3 pcd, 16*8+30. Great fit on S13, R32 Gts-t. Obviously fits other skylines also.

- 3 rims are in very good condition (keeping in mind they're 20 years old). One has gutter rash - see pics below.

- all rims have centre caps

- Tyres are Yokohama A048R semi slicks. MH compound. They're 225/50/R16's. They've seen 4 track days, still tons of tread left.

$600

DSC_0007-1.jpg

DSC_0005-1.jpg

DSC_0004-1.jpg

DSC_0003-1.jpg

DSC_0002-1.jpg

2. Sabelt 4pt harness in good nick. Has everything you need to bolt straight in.

$100

DSC_0008-1.jpg

3. No name wing with bootlid reinforcement underneath (see pics).

- Creates less lift, looks like you're going fast. Seriously though, it did improve stability through faster corners imo. Take the wing and bootlid for $100

DSC_0017.jpg

DSC_0019.jpg

DSC_0016-1.jpg

DSC_0010-1.jpg

4. Momo corse bucket seat.

- One piece fibreglass

- FIA approved

- Mounts for S13

- Has lumbar and thigh cushions

- Great seat, just has tears in the material. If you're doing skids or trackdays, a great upgrade over the standard seat, and very safe.

$200 or, buy the harness too and i'll give you both for $250

Photo0026.jpg

Photo0028.jpg

Photo0028.jpg

GTR rims sold.

I also have a bunch of S13 spares if people need them - rear glass, quarter glass, standard rear upper and toe arms, driver's side door, steering column (off the top of my head). If you're interested in any of that stuff, let me know and we can work something out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah the ACL and similar formable heat shielding materials are really nice. But most people do not have the patience or talent to do a good job like that. Almost anything is better than nothing though. Even if you didn't form it closely like that and just had a slab of it slipped in between the manifold and somewhere/thing you wanted to protect, you would gain benefit. There has to be a market opportunity for people like Artec to make formed heatshields to suit their cast manifolds. The fact that they are cast means that they are consistently the exact same dimensions and they could add bosses to the castings like you see on stockers to allow heat shields to be firmly attached yet floating away from the manifold itself.
    • I've seen some stuff like this as well, not sure if it's a good idea or anything but it does have more standoff from the piping than the conventional fiberglass wrap:  
    • Jap premium will be 100 RON. You should use 98.
    • The exhaust gases are at their highest temperature as they leave the exhaust port and enter the manifold. They cool as they flow through the manifold because they transfer heat to the manifold and the manifold loses heat to the surrounding environment. Thus, inevitably, the exhaust gases are cooler as they enter the turbo compared to when they entered the exhaust manifold. So, yes, the exhaust manifold can easily get as hot as the turbine housing. Having said that, you will generally see the highest temperatures where the exhaust gases have to slow down or they are concentrated into one area - which is usually the collector on the manifold and in the turbine housing, because the gases slam into the metal at those places, increasing the convective heat transfer coefficient and transferring even more heat to the metal than they might just flowing past elsewhere. Exhaust manifold heat shields are a good idea - certainly for the stock manifold they are there from the factory. People seldom have anything like that on a tubular manifold because they are hard to achieve. Some might wrap a tube manifold with fibreglass tape - but this has a reputation of leading to cracked welds. The best case is generally to put ceramic coating onto the manifold to prevent it getting as hot (internal coating) and radiating/convecting heat into the bay (external coating). All the real heat from a turbo comes from the exhaust side. The gases entering are at ~800-900°C and the steel/iron gets nearly that hot. The compressor side is only going to heat the charge air up to <<200°C (typically not much more than 100°C). So that's nothing, by comparison. The compressor is not a significant source of engine bay heat.
    • Late to the party, specifically joined this forum as I just bought one of these and this thread has been a gold mine of info. If the OP is still around, mind if I ask what gas you been putting in yours? Mine has a Japanese sticker in the cap saying premium but it seems to get way worse mileage on premium (95) than 91. I always thought it was meant to be the other way round🤷 I do think Nissans claimed "6l/100km" is a bit fantastical 😂
×
×
  • Create New...