Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

is the transmission hardware in 2011 and earlier cars identical? Would LC4 damage the earlier cars ? Lastly Martin, which gearbox program is better? the AP or the Nissan LC4?

Thanks

Yes, we have been doing this for a few months now. Nissan cant do it with the Consult to the best of my knowledge.

Speedah on here has 2011 LC4 in his 2010 ADM GTR :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380950-lc4-flash/#findComment-6074653
Share on other sites

+1 dead keen to know if "LC4" is simply software or are the internals upgraded as well.

is the transmission hardware in 2011 and earlier cars identical? Would LC4 damage the earlier cars ? Lastly Martin, which gearbox program is better? the AP or the Nissan LC4?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380950-lc4-flash/#findComment-6075390
Share on other sites

How does Nissan warranty the LC4 at 4000rpm launch but not the previous programs?

software only

4000rpm launch is right at the limit of what the stock tyres + stock power can translate to forward momentum

if your car is mod'd, id opt for a lower launch rpm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380950-lc4-flash/#findComment-6077519
Share on other sites

How does Nissan warranty the LC4 at 4000rpm launch but not the previous programs?

as long as you use LC with VDC-R you're fine

my 2010 activates LC with VDC-R

this was discussed here a while ago at length, and pretty sure the 2009 ADM guys said they can activate LC with VDC-R too

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380950-lc4-flash/#findComment-6077563
Share on other sites

software only

4000rpm launch is right at the limit of what the stock tyres + stock power can translate to forward momentum

if your car is mod'd, id opt for a lower launch rpm

When I asked Mizuno-san, face to face, at Philip Island 2011 GT-R launch, if Nissan would honour its much publicised promise to offer upgrades to 2009/2010 cars to 2011spec LC4 ,

his answer was: "not possible, veeery sorry, different internals"

So there.down.gif

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380950-lc4-flash/#findComment-6079130
Share on other sites

Transmission hardware for the 2011 GR6 is identical to the 2009/2010 cars.

There are some small ancillary differences such as slightly different oil pan design, one fluid magnet rather than two etc. Nothing you would consider a design change. Take that from someone that has stripped both transmissions :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380950-lc4-flash/#findComment-6079508
Share on other sites

I honestly fail to see the attraction of a 4k clutch dump

I cant get full traction at 3k, and this was when I was running Cobb and midpipe only

It is actually quite a smooth event in the MY11 at 4,000rpm. I imagine this is why it is now warranted at this higher engine speed.

I had the opportunity to do a few launches side-by-side with with MY09/10s recently and the LC4 program is far superior in that initial phase of a launch.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380950-lc4-flash/#findComment-6079736
Share on other sites

i can understand that

but what happens when you start putting more power through the driveline

isn't 4k a bit excessive for the amount of grip available? and even if it did hook up, that's alot of energy going through the diffs

i come from semi-manual boxes where LC's put alot of stress on the drivetrain, so LC is not something i go out and play with

perhaps Martin who has rebuilt r35 box's can shed some light on what kind of damage over use of the LC causes, or whether the software is so good it can minimise the damage

Edited by domino_z
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380950-lc4-flash/#findComment-6079783
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...