Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK guys sorry about all the threads :( So i need some Help, Im down too 2 cars that im looking to buy, if anyone has feedback on what they think would be a better car performance wise Comfort wise so on so on would be great to get some other opinions!

http://www.boostclassifieds.com.au/advert/772909-1998-Nissan-Skyline-R33-for-Sale.html

http://www.boostclassifieds.com.au/advert/767537-1994-Nissan-Skyline-R33-Skyline-for-Sale.html

So i know what alot of people think and say its up to the owner but would be interesting to see what other people would choose and for what reason!

Any Questions Will be appreciates Thanks SAU!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380962-ok-final-stretch/
Share on other sites

why was the re car resprayed? why was it rebuilt?

why the new front bar? ask yourself this. If you are still keen, ask him/her this.

Looks to be the type of car that gets molested often, but then again, most skylines look like that. i do personally know of one thats super clean, driven like its a dihatsu and is always garaged thats possibly for sale. Its my bosses wifes car. 33 gts-t M spec with 17x8 and 17x9.5's. standard EVERYTHING else. pm me for more info :)

Cheers, Allan

The White one...

Just cooz I personally like the look of a Series 2 over a Series 1 but is your call...

im with this guy, the red one looks too....well....different. im always weary of a car that has been sprayed, patched or "refreshed". not always a bad thing, but are you willing to spend your money to find out??

im with this guy, the red one looks too....well....different. im always weary of a car that has been sprayed, patched or "refreshed". not always a bad thing, but are you willing to spend your money to find out??

Mmm yeah I understand, well really I want to be able to get in the car and drive it without having to fix anything or have to worry about things constantly

Get both checked out, your comparing a 94 200000+km car with a 98 120000km car. The obvious choice is the 98 looks clean, newer car, less kms. As I said get it checked out by. Decent workshop. Also think resale, Newer car with less kms will always sell quicker over a modded older model with more kms

The rebuilt one is tempting, IF it was done by a workshop I know and trust, there is more value there. That said the white one does have some nice high quality parts has recently had the expensive services done.

Hmm bit of a toss up for me but I would probably go for the red one as it has some big ticket items that the white one does not, Ie the rebuild, the turbo and the computer which would cost you many thousands of dollars to buy and install

I personally would be going for the 1998 40th Anniversary Edition. Going by the description (and the photos) it appears the owner has spared no expense at maintaining the car to a reliable standard. The owner has used quality parts for most upgrades and just having done a major timing belt service, new coil, plugs etc... suggests to me they have taking great pride in their car.

The red one looks nice, very presentable underbonnet layout and has quite a few mods done to it. With what's been installed, it would more than likely be possible to get it tuned for a higher kw output. That being said like others have pointed out, why the rebuild? And I recall seeing this car on here, would be curious to know why the owner would spend $Xxxx on a full re-build then sell it... I think you'd receive more attention from the boys in blue with the red one.

Ultimately it comes down to what YOU are after...

Personally:

1998 - Clean looking, quality parts, well maintained, room for upgrades, newer model and (if genuine) less kms

1994 - Presented nicely for show, possibility of increasing power with additional tune, most mods (including wheels and body kit already done.

Make sure you check log books and service history for both vehicles, and if you can, do a revs check to make sure everythings in order.

My two cents.

I agree that the red one looks like a cop magnet. And when they get you to open that bonnet and see all the blue and all the shiny... whooooo boy... hope you got a spare 15mins or so while they go through everything, then probably defect you for the boost controller.

...bastards :(

I would go for the 1998... The only thing that would make the red one more of a cop magnet would be no wing imo...

With all the shiny shit under the bonnet I wouldn't want to drive it around too often lol

From my experience once an engine has been opened that's when the problems start...I'd steer clear of the red one

The white one looks clean and tastefully modified with quality parts, that would be my pick

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
    • What HVAC actuator is under the steering wheel? Do you mean on the RHS of the centre console, immediately to the left of your shin? If so, then yes, it is probably that one, because that is the mode door actuator, and from what I know, it's still a pain in the arse to replace. I don't know about whole dash out, but you certainly have to rip into the centre console section. I don't know if it's covered in the workshop manual, as I haven't spent much time looking at those parts of it. (and by "the workshop manual, I mean the R32 GTR one, which is the most comprehensive one we have, and it should be similar enough between that and later cars to serve as a guide).
    • ...oops. forgot the TCU end...
    • No I got mine from a friend that had fabricated one … but I had to fit it to my setup which was a hks turbo setup. His was a Garrett -7. So one of my turbos was not a flange for one side … then I had a leak in the welds I had to find a weld shut … in the end the setup was decent priced but I spent a lot to get it fitted. A couple companies I checked would make it but you’re talking 7-9k aud with titanium. No joke mine was 6-7k even second hand after I had to fit it in Hong Kong … labour is expensive here. 
    • I'd just like to restate that I don't think anyone here is actually hating I recently sold a car part to a guy who was building a forged auto R34, with MV stall and aiming at ~450kw. I told him that I'm him, from the future and to stop after it explodes once. I told him I knew he won't listen the first time, and that's fine. But if my predictions do come true - Change direction faster than I did. I also said it's probably no coincidence that the dyno plot of a reliable turbo engine starts to look a lot like a N/A motor. :p
×
×
  • Create New...