Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

unfortunatley not Andrew lol

that really needs to be laser cut, then CNC milled from the look of it - though im tempted to get the file for the 1uz to T56 file and see what their machining options are, i do have contacts for all this stuff now.

even if the laser cutters did the main work then etched the surface for the milling part you could spend some time doing it manually on a mill.

  • Replies 87
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The turbo has bolts atm, would like to keep that if possible....as for the dimensions to the outside...it doesn't really matter, but I would like the center hole for the pipe to suit 3" mild steel pipe rather than 81mm

Chris, go to 10mm plate is what i've been advised by all the exhaust guys.

They see warping issues after use with 5/6mm stuff.

As for gearbox adapters, why the T56? It's a clunky as f**k gearbox. If I could have easily, I would have avoided using it altogether with my LS1 and stuck with the 5Speed.

If you've got a Toyota engine, get the V160 Box.

just did some measuring on matt's old dump pipe (same flange) it is 12mm from the centre hole to the edge and 10mm bolt holes.

Did notice though that his piping is 76mm OD...so not sure what to do there as I think 81mm will be too loose?

Chris, go to 10mm plate is what i've been advised by all the exhaust guys.

They see warping issues after use with 5/6mm stuff.

As for gearbox adapters, why the T56? It's a clunky as f**k gearbox. If I could have easily, I would have avoided using it altogether with my LS1 and stuck with the 5Speed.

If you've got a Toyota engine, get the V160 Box.

V160 = $4500-5000 2nd hand

T56 $1500 2nd hand

Chris

If I ever feel rich...would you be able to do one of these?

http://www.ebay.com....=item2eaded1639

i bought the 1uz one yesterday - turns out its 3 pieces for the 1uz and they recommend steel - so i'll be cutting it out next week :P

lucky we have some 12mm plate lying around :D

yeah exactly

hardest part is going to be welding the pieces together without the 12mm plate warping - might have to bolt it up to the bell housing and weld it bolted up and low heat as its under compression so doesnt have to be a strong weld.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • I think you'll find we're confused about what you were trying to do and how you were doing it. I would have thought that block rigidity was something you measured while loading the block in beam or in torsion, and that you would do so before and after grout filling, to see if putting material in there created a "composite" construction with the expected rigidity increase. Notwithstanding that the true function of grout is less about gross rigidity than local (ie preventing bore deflection/splitting and tying the bores to the main bearing locations a little better, etc etc). It is nearly impossible to follow your description of what you've done without closing ones eyes and making "aliens" hand shapes in front of oneself to try to follow the manipulations you've made. It's still unclear to me what you were trying to prove.
    • Not a fan of "racing stripes" really, I've seen a few done, with different styles of stripes, but no, not for me Although younger Mark probably would have thought differently about them
    • The correct answer is body colour. Admittedly it does look pretty handsome as-is in grey.
    • I'm surprised there isn't any interest in this.
    • Por qué no los dos? Body colour red with black stripes down centre, onto bonnet and bootlid.
×
×
  • Create New...