Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey,

Ive noticed that when the car hasnt been started for a while ( atleast 3 days) that it will run a bit ruff and shaky for about 20seconds,( exactly like when you give a wipper snipper too much choke and it starts up all shakey then comes good)

Does anyone have this happen? If driven daily it doesnt do this.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381072-quick-question-on-cold-start/
Share on other sites

how old are the plugs? if old, then try replacing them. also, next time you let it sit for a little while, try letting the fuel pump prime for a few seconds before you start the car (turn the key to ON, let it sit for a few seconds, then turn it to START).

it may also be that your injectors are a little dirty and could do with a proper clean (remove and have professionally clean, not just a bottle of injector cleaner). might be worth changing the fuel filter as well.

final thing is, how old is the fuel in the car? if the car doesn't get driven much, and so the fuel is a few months old, then that won't be helping the problem.

how old are the plugs? if old, then try replacing them. also, next time you let it sit for a little while, try letting the fuel pump prime for a few seconds before you start the car (turn the key to ON, let it sit for a few seconds, then turn it to START).

it may also be that your injectors are a little dirty and could do with a proper clean (remove and have professionally clean, not just a bottle of injector cleaner). might be worth changing the fuel filter as well.

final thing is, how old is the fuel in the car? if the car doesn't get driven much, and so the fuel is a few months old, then that won't be helping the problem.

plugs would be about 10 000kms old

usually let it stop its priming so 5seconds, it primes again when the key is turnt ( must be normal)

Fuel filter is 5000km's old

fuel is one week old so fresh, it was being driven daily then was not started for 4days

if driven daily or every couple of days it will start without the symptoms, but ill replace the plugs, filter again and injectors will be replaced in a few months

cheers for the input :cool:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I agree on doing some better than factory pistons, rods, and oil pump. For anyone using the vehicle on the road, I don't get why everyone wants big cams. The stock cam profile, with some more lift would be mint for road usage. Everyone going big cams and then wondering why it isn't as responsive in traffic, when they've shifted the torque curve upwards an additional 1000RPM. Make torque, at lower RPM. Sure it's not as cool as claiming "500KW" and revving it to 8,0000RPM, but that same torque 2,000RPM earlier... Then you don't need the extremely high end pistons and rods, and blah blah blah.
    • Personal experience. Those f**kers burn. And are actually a PITA to put out. Next time I walk down the back, I'll snap a photo of what the inside of the bonnet looks like when that thing ignites. PS, powder fire extinguishers are useless on that stuff too as it's fibrous and when it ignites, it starts to pull apart. And you end up just blowing powder through a sieve effectively.   Like the big thing is, if it's fire resistant, it's job is to stop what burning? The METAL above it? It's just to try keep heat off the bonnet paint work.
    • Oh man, sorry, $60.00000000... 😛
    • That's more or less what he meant. What it really means is that you do not have to go full crazy on the build. Don't need the best oil pump, expensive rods & pistons, big cams, etc. You can upgrade whatever you want instead of using stock level items, but you don't have to. Having said that - any time an RB is opened up, if anything is getting replaced, I think the opportunity should be taken to do all the sensible upgrades. Pistons, rods, pump, etc.
    • February update 🙂 We managed to get the very last 1/18th "Extra Scale" cars stock available from bookstores in Kyoto. These are actually the last ones and will not be restocked again! Hachette Collections Japan have not decided on a release date for these or other models in the series, so for the time being these are all there are available new.  These are showing up on Yahoo auctions at inflated prices already (especially the Celica and NSX) so get yours now at a very reasonable price before they disappear! Stock quantities: NA1 Honda NSX - 1 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1990-na1-honda-nsx 1973 Toyota Celica LB 2000GT - 2 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1973-toyota-celica-lb-2000gt 1968 Mazda Cosmo Sport - 2 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1968-mazda-cosmo-sport 1970 KPGC10 Nissan Skyline 2000GT-R - 2 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1970-kpgc10-nissan-skyline-2000gt-r
×
×
  • Create New...