Full Rwd Convert

[nisrob]

Hey guys new stagea owner here.

I couldnt find the rare rwd version for a good price so have settled for a series rs-4

Had i on a hoist 2day, the question everyone does the transfer case shaft remove. Is it hard to remove the whole front differential as well? n wat problems r there with it? Sump swap? it hard?

Thanks

[Whooby]

Front diff is part of the sump, can't remove it sorry.

Easier option would be a RWD RB25 is my guess. Much easier task surely.

But drive shafts can be removed and have been. Assuming you have a series 2? other wise just pull the fuse.

Edited October 24, 2011 by Whooby

[kidafa]

Front diff is part of the sump, can't remove it sorry.

Easier option would be a RWD RB25 is my guess. Much easier task surely.

But drive shafts can be removed and have been. Assuming you have a series 2? other wise just pull the fuse.

Don't listen to this clown and just pull the fuse unless you want serious clutch pack damage...

[Bronx]

buy a rwd gearbox and a rwd sump for the awd engine block. easiest way of doing it.

dont know how to get your ecu to stop displaying the AWD error light tho.

may cost you a bit extra, but then again will be more fun and you can avoid the whole "damaging your transfercase" topic

And on series 2 you cant just pull the fuse, thats a r32gtr trick. series 2 will still keep your transfercase engaged since it doesnt release the pressure on the clutch packs, just stops the on off motion

if you want, to do it, remove the front driveshafts and go into rwd diagnostics mode. that way your 100% sure nothing gets damaged at all.

[GoldZilla]

The problem will remain that the RWD and AWD Stageas have completely different front suspensions, so you'll have to take that into account. Might be an issue, might not, but it's still something to keep in mind.

[too_much_boost]

I did this with my S1 stagea. I bought it with a broken motor so I just replaced the motor and auto box with R33 GTST items. I had to make a custom tailshaft and gearbox crossmember, and had to adapt the box from linkage setup to cable setup but that wasn't massive dramas. All the wiring matched up fine. It was surprisingly easy

Also didn't need any of the attessa nonsense of front driveshafts so I saved some weight and complexity there.

[Whooby]

Removed.

Edited October 25, 2011 by Whooby

[GoldZilla]

I'm just wondering why you want to convert it to RWD anyway?

The ATTESA isn't a full-time AWD system anyway, so if you want to use it only in RWD for a track day or something, just drop the driveshaft for that day.

[Bronx]

you still have to go into diagnostic mode tho if you drop the front shaft ?

since its noticing that your fronts aren't turning it will transfer your power to the front so you will send it to nowhere and still loose power in the ass half.

[shane344]

The way I understand the Attessa transfer case is that the rear shaft is directly coupled, and the front drive shaft is coupled via the wet clutch pack.

So if the front diff is disconnected from the hubs and rear breaks traction it will pull/push the hydraulic actuator to clutch in the front diff more and more until its 100% not allowing slippage.

The rear driveshaft will still be directly connected while the front diff output shafts just spin at the same speed as the rear wheels.

You'll probably get flashy AWD error lights but I can't see physical damage occurring.

I do not profess to having one of these apart for 100% certainty but I am a nerd...

I could not see the point of having a second clutch pack slipping the rear driveshaft from the output shaft of the 5 speed.

I have considered doing this myself so I had a good stare at the box on the jacks the other day, I was hoping to only have to remove the driveshaft from between the box and the front diff.

Slip joint means no good into one end (cant remember which), has to be individual half shafts between front hubs and diff which was more work than I was prepared to do last Sunday arvo.

EDIT: This has piqued my curiosity so I found this: http://vodpod.com/watch/5870104-nissan-skyline-gt-r-attesa-system-transfercase

The shaft the dude is playing with at the end is connected from the output of the transmission to the rear driveshaft.

Edited October 25, 2011 by shane344

[Cowboy1600]

Look under your dash right of the steering column. You will see a green plug. Unplug it.

Now start the car and pump the brake five times.

Bammo! You're in RWD mode. The only thing is your 4WD light will flash. No harm will be done to your driveline.

I have mine unplugged permanently. The 4WD light doesn't bother me.

[chuckie]

Look under your dash right of the steering column. You will see a green plug. Unplug it.

Now start the car and pump the brake five times.

Bammo! You're in RWD mode. The only thing is your 4WD light will flash. No harm will be done to your driveline.

I have mine unplugged permanently. The 4WD light doesn't bother me.

Good to see some one has listened

[Bronx]

ive done that for the entire 2 years ive had my stagea, but cannot be bothered starting another argument with some other members. so never posted it

i just called it "diagnostics mode"

[nisrob]

so its a 97 series 1 forgot to mention.

so a confirmation:

-does dropping the transfer shaft to the front diff damage the auto?

not worried about a silly light staying on.

swap to a rwd sump maybe, to allow full diff removal?

Wanna make it full rwd to save weight n gain power

also do r33 gtr wheels fit perfectly without spaces?

Thanks heaps guys.

[shane344]

Just found the RWD diagnostic mode thread from ages back with the whole plug unplug brake pump sequence.

Tried it, works, but my 235 michelins have too much grip, or I need more revs...

Will become part of the standard starting procedure.

Thanks.

[wolverine]

More powah.

[Cowboy1600]

so its a 97 series 1 forgot to mention.

so a confirmation:

-does dropping the transfer shaft to the front diff damage the auto?

not worried about a silly light staying on.

swap to a rwd sump maybe, to allow full diff removal?

Wanna make it full rwd to save weight n gain power

also do r33 gtr wheels fit perfectly without spaces?

Thanks heaps guys.

You really don't understand cars that much, do ya?

Save weight and gain power? Dude, the savings and gain will be 5/5ths of f**k all. Not worth the effort or the expense. I doubt you'll even feel a difference through the seat of the pants dyno, let alone an actual dyno. If you want more power, there are much smarter ways to go about it.

[lilcrash]

I have to say my car feels a lot more powerful in 4wd then in rwd, just my 2 cents

[Bronx]

saving weight hes got right, hell save close to 70-80kg if he removes of front shafts, front diff, and changes gearbox to one without a transfer case.

or for the same price, you could get a full exhaust, fmic, boost kit and possibly a nistune. you would feel more from that.

only go full RWD if you wish to go for Drift. other than that there is no need

[Cowboy1600]

saving weight hes got right, hell save close to 70-80kg if he removes of front shafts, front diff, and changes gearbox to one without a transfer case.

or for the same price, you could get a full exhaust, fmic, boost kit and possibly a nistune. you would feel more from that.

only go full RWD if you wish to go for Drift. other than that there is no need

Exactly. In a 1600kg+ car that hasn't been developed to be as light and as powerful as possible, 70-80kgs is sweet FA. That's like not having me, minus a leg, in the passenger seat.

For the expense of doing all of that (and it won't be cheap) he could screw another 100hp out of his car quite easily. Now THAT will make a difference.

As for economy, it might improve by 1 or 2 percent. If you are worried about getting 450 or 455ks to the tank, then cars just ain't for you.