Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok I'm going out to the creek on monday so what's the go?

1. Helmet?

2. Long sleeve shirt? Why?

3. Put cheap tyres on.

4. I have an auto/tiptronic. Will I have tranny overheating problems? How do I know if it's getting bad? Just keep an eye on my engine oil temp gauge I guess.

5. It's twenty minute runs I think. Much waiting in between?

6. Anything else I should know?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/38118-my-first-track-day-what-do-i-need/
Share on other sites

1. required, must comply with AS 1698 or equivalent.

2. "neck to wrist to ankle" non flammable clothing, driving suit recommended, shoes must also be non-flammable . i.e. sneakers made of synthetic materials are technically not allowed.

3. heh

4. should be OK, you won't be pushing it that hard I would expect.

5. if there's 3 groups then 40 minutes in between (60/3=20) :(, if there's 4 groups Dave usually runs 15 minute sessions

6. BLEED YOUR BRAKES!!!!!!!!!!! This is the most overlooked thing for track preparation. Nothing worse than having the pedal go to the floor on the 3rd lap because of all the grungy sh1t in your lines and calipers. :D

Check all fluid levels, tyre pressures, wheel nuts, everything!

Contrary to popular belief Frank Williams does NOT recruit at drive days so stick to your limits and you'll have a great time and drive home in an unbent car.

oh and have fun :)

Contrary to popular belief Frank Williams does NOT recruit at drive days so stick to your limits and you'll have a great time and drive home in an unbent car.

Damn! I all that hard work went to nothing. I really thought I had a chance with Montoya leaving. :)

Keep an eye on your temp guage and you should be good.

If it's your first time out there, get one of the regular trackday hoons to show you the lines. What ever you do, don't get Fatz to show you the lines. He drives on some funny lines that bloke :D

Contrary to popular belief Frank Williams does NOT recruit at drive days so stick to your limits and you'll have a great time and drive home in an unbent car.
What the... ? Wish you had told me this last time I was at the Creek. Would have saved me about $2,500 in brake repairs :D

Definitely bleed your brakes with brand new DOT5.1 Brake fluid (about $100 inc labour at your local brake mechanic).

I'd also highly recommend asking either a "Driving Instructor" (their are usually 2-3 at the trackdays) or someone whom has been to 2-3 trackdays before to passenger around with you for the first session (or 2). You don't need 1000's of hp to cut a quick lap... you need good lines and smooth throttle/braking. No point trying to put Schumacher out of a job on your first outing, just work on getting the lines right and learning the corners.

When the checkered flag is shown reduce your speed to about 60-80 in 4th gear (for the cool down lap) to help all your temperatures drop. When you make it back to the pits drive all the way out to the main road and back before parking in the pit garage. This will allow your brakes and engine oil etc to cool down. When you arrive back at your garage leave your handbrake off and just throw something behind a wheel. Keep your bonnet raised until your next session is due (about 40mins).

Make sure you remove anything loose from your car; Headunit, Center Console, Glove Box, sub box, spare tyre, jack etc.

Contrary to popular belief Frank Williams does NOT recruit at drive days ....

What the?

I've got one to add :/

Don't go out there trying to set a quick time! Its your first day, get used to how the car reacts on the track, build speed gradually, that way you'll bring your car home straight and learn a heap about driving....

Bob, good to see you're still at it.:P (I was in the purple 180SX at the Skylines Australia skidpan day a while back).

I'd say:

Take some concentrated coolant and distilled water.

Get some cotton gardening gloves if you're going to change tyres. Take some wet-wipes as well. It sucks getting grease and stuff on your steering wheel (as well as being unsafe).

Buy some racing gloves. You only have to get blisters once before it seems like a good idea.

Take a look under your car before a session to see if anything is leaking out after the last session (I noticed burst caster rod bushings this way).

Make sure your battery is secure, since scrutes always check this first.

Take out your floormats.

benm is right. Make sure you let your brakes and other stuff actually cool down on the cooldown lap. I just had my front rotors machined recently after they warped from a trackday at Wakefield because I didn't let them cool down.

Ask people stuff. I asked a lady who drives an awesome (and loud) dark blue RX-7 to show me the right line on the circuit map at Wakefield, and the next session, my average lap time went down almost half a second.

Don't you also need a secondary bonnet release? That's what i was told anyway??

any cams event will require a L2S license, secondary bonnet tie down and a fire extinguisher.

The track days run by motoconcepts, unique autosports, wakefield park etc only require roadworthy car, helmet and long clothes

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for posting, your engine bay looks tops. I'm fairly sure you posted the wrong video though, I think you were supposed to upload the one from your "private test road" where it's banging off the limiter with the gate open?
    • This is something to be careful of. I did a bit of digging on the NM35, as I spend a lot of time on near brand new cars and CANBus related stuff, which uses the same "OBD2" plug for a fair chunk of making my life easy. The NM35, does NOT support OBD2. The data pin is actually on Pin3, which is a manufacturer specific pin, and requires Consult3 to connect to the NM35. Your low voltage, is either because the NM35 doesn't have 12V to the constant power pin on the J1962 (OBD2) connector, OR, it is attempting the standard comms, (CanBus, K Line, etc) and can't see any voltage on those pins. Some people have had success accessing SOME data from the vehicle on OBD2 specification, using a module that supports KPW. My assumption, like Duncan has stated, it will likely actually be JOBD, where there is some cross over with the OBD2 and JOBD standards. Note, lots of "OBD2" dongles, do NOT support KPW, which is what you need for a lot of Japanese vehicles of this era (And even up until recent years!), EG, Subaru, Suzuki, etc.    The end of this thread is probably worth a read, as some people did find a way to get a display up in the NM35 recently, looks like someone implemented all the stuff needed to make it work. (The right protocols).  
    • Depending on the purpose of the car, and how much more fabbing you want to do, and what clearances you have, you could look to raise the motor, which will raise the front diff up. Likely would mean altering the chassis rails etc etc, hence the more fab work you'd need to do. However, this can create issues, not just in clearance with everything fitting under the bonnet, but you've also raised a LOT of weight up in the car, and this will DEFINITELY alter handling characteristics (But, so will how much weight you've already added to the front end). You'll also have to deal with the fact the gearbox to rear diff is now out of alignment too for the tail shaft, and alter the angle of the diff, or deal with a bit of potential vibration. Raising the motor an inch up, is effectively the same as making the whole car sit higher by not lowering it as far. So one inch higher motor, theoretically means you can drop the car an extra inch lower, and maintain the same angles in the CVs. Again, depends on the purpose of the car. If it's a just cruiser on the street car, maybe won't be an issue. If it's meant to be a time attack car, I can see you not wanting to raise the motor. This is just for you to ponder as an idea.
    • Have you not seen geospy.ai? It can now give GPS co ords to within a metre from a photo, even if it's a random photo you take inside. Supposedly at the moment only the government/law enforcement has access to that... Supposedly...
    • I've got the rear ones, they're certainly beefy. I need to take them to my driveshaft guru to check over, he's very fussy about the quality of components so I'll let you know if they are made of cheese by a blind man.   Are you in Australia? A mate just had a set of EN26 shafts made for his K20 Lotus by our fabricator which were quite cheap (compared to Driveshaft Shop) so if you can procure the CV's and draw what you need he'd make them for ~$800 for the pair.
×
×
  • Create New...