Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all just selling some things that are layin around at my place

first up

T70 turbo brand new only fitted on manifold not bolted to the car or even bolted to the manifold as you can see in the pictures still has all the covers on it

only 6months old bought it to do a high mount conversion but realised gunna cost to much in the long run

ill do TURBO WASTEGATE AN MANIFOLD $700

all it says on the turbo is

A/R .70

M24

serial No' = NP1007153610

Rated at 550hp-600hp

its got a V-band rear housing comes wit clamp an adaptor for V band exhaust thingy

it is water an oil cooled

after $550

38MM wastegate Black an Silver brand new aswell no specs on it

$120

stainless steel high mount manifold used but in good condition

wastegate hole blocked off an is missing 1 stud where turbo bolts on easy fix

$120

hybrid intercooler an piping came off a r33 skyline all piping is there might be missing 2-3 silicone joiners

intercooler is in good condition

$200

Climate control unit out of a series 1 r33 thought it was broken so got a new 1 but didnt solve anythin it was the motor for the air con vents so this is spare

$50

Series 2 wing in QM1 has got brakelight jus no cover on it apart from that no cracks or breaks could do wing a clean up or polish

$80

R33 front an rear seats series 1

drivers seats has usual wear an tear on side bolster an has got black glue of sumsort on head rest an is also missing map pocket

passenger seat is fine

rear seats has a lil tear on the bottom not really noticable an a few marks

bought these seats wit the intention of re-trimming but didnt really the cost involved first

$130

3 gauge holder i think it fits 52mm gauges

$20

all items are pickup from richmond NSW

msg me any questions

0403589685

post-76517-0-09098300-1319665756_thumb.jpg

post-76517-0-10427800-1319665831_thumb.jpg

post-76517-0-58404400-1319665881_thumb.jpg

post-76517-0-54673300-1319666019_thumb.jpg

post-76517-0-04053900-1319666127_thumb.jpg

post-76517-0-99220300-1319666263_thumb.jpg

post-76517-0-68272300-1319666315_thumb.jpg

post-76517-0-62357600-1319666377_thumb.jpg

post-76517-0-43631200-1319666446_thumb.jpg

post-76517-0-77584200-1319666486_thumb.jpg

post-76517-0-66264000-1319666594_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381313-clean-out/
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I agree that delayed payment probably isn't the most suitable solution. It seems a solid complete transaction would be best. As I wouldn't be using this sale as a line of credit that would typically earn interest, we can probably arrange a much cleaner single transaction deal. I can do $92.52 today. Would you prefer EFT, or Cash on Pickup?  😛
    • Oh man what a deal.... Funny enough (well not really) I sold a car to some old dude (buying for his Daughter) on a Saturday, He asked if she could take the car now and pay me the money on Monday as the bank wasn't open. Needless to say I told them to come back with the cash or get f**ked! Luckily the money seemed to magically appear in his pocket a few minutes later, so it all ended well (for me).
    • Gucci bags tend to hold their value well, so someone’s definitely going to get a nice find here.
    • @Ozdavroz Not going to get a better deal than that. Cash up front and ongoing payments. 🤑
    • I wouldn't even move it like gTSBoy is saying. I'd seriously do what Duncan is saying. Unplug the injectors, and unplug the fuel pump.  Pull the spark plugs out. Have a look in quickly with a bore scope if you want. At most, you can't spray a bit of oil into the bores so there is lubricant in there while you crank it. (Don't fill it, as it's only going to enter the exhaust, or spit at you out the spark plugs holes. Before cranking the engine on the starter, after a 5 year sit I'd probably prime the oil system manually. Easiest way to do so is to look at buying an oil filter relocation block, fit it to the engine. The pressure line going into the engine on this block you can then shove into some sort of oil pump, or put it into a bottle, with that hose going to the bottom. Fill bottle up with oil. Now seal the bottle and add a compressed air line to the top of the bottle. Feed compressed air in, about 20psi will be PLENTY. This will pump oil through the motor. Be aware, it also means it will drain back to the sump, so make sure you don't end up over filling the motor Now bolt the old oil setup back on (or fully install the remote filter system).   This way you've at least pushed fresh oil everywhere, then you're letting the motor crank to then do its own oiling. Then I'd tap the key to make sure it can start to crank, if the motor free bumps, then I'd just hit the key and let it crank. After letting it crank and seeing you can get real engine oil pressure, put new spark plugs in, reconnect the fuel system electrics, and send it.   Additionally, you can look to remove the fuel feed line to the rail, and divert it to a tank so you can get the bottom of the tank shit out, and just incase there's some crud sitting anywhere that gets passed the fuel filter (or is already ahead of it).   If fuel injection at the injectors ends up appearing to be a problem, you can dump the injectors into an ultrasonic cleaner for a quick flush clean out. Note this isn't as good as new injectors, or getting them pro cleaned and flowed    
×
×
  • Create New...