Jump to content
SAU Community

R31 Rb30E - Need Help Asap

SPINR31

By SPINR31,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

SPINR31 Explorer

SPINR31

Posted
Posted (edited)

Ok so im having some issues with me new engine.

got a reco cammed rb30 put in, needed to use a few parts off my old engine.

- Lifters

- Whole Intake System

- Whole Fuel System (rails, plugs injectors etc)

- flywheel.

- wiring, ecu, trans, clutch etc were left intact while engine was replaced (not replaced)

1st Issue: this engine knocks exactly like my last one although not quite as bad (happens anywhere between 1500 and 3200 approx rpm), this engine has a mild stage 2 cam in it.......it is currently usuing the lifters out of my other standard cam engine...same problem, i am almost adiment this issue is lifters but i need advice on what lifters to get because i dont know the cam specs.

Youtube link:

www.youtube.com/watch?v=DvmlchfBaE0

2ND ISSUE; When the car gets to normal operating temps (anything over a quarter on the gauge) it randomly starts misifring as if the engine cuts out completely for a minute amount of a second......doesn't do it when its cold, only when it is getting warm, few people have told me Crank Angle Sensor but i'm not sure...

Cheers in advance guys.

Edited by SPINR31
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381332-r31-rb30e-need-help-asap/
Share on other sites
SPINR31 Explorer

SPINR31

Posted
  • Author
Posted

if it was the lifters it wouldnt be making a knocking noise just a tapping noise, have u checked ur valve clearence?

who rebuildt your motor? did they change big and main bearings?

it was a mate that rebuilt it, all the bearings were NOT changed at all, he im not sure if he checked valve clearance

StevenCJR31 Veteran

StevenCJR31

Posted
Posted

i had a higher than standard lift/duration cam fitted to my R31 RB30E head, . . .not 100% sure as to why BUT the lifter cradles HAD to be machined to suit that cam, if you havnt had that done then that could be your problem

fat_rb25 Collaborator

fat_rb25

Posted
Posted

the thing is the motor was knocking before you rebuilt it, and now its still knocking and you didnt change ur bearings. so i reckon could be a bottom end knocking

i dont know if you can change the bearings while the motor is still in, if you have enough room to take the sump out and change the bearings

SPINR31 Explorer

SPINR31

Posted
  • Author
Posted

the thing is the motor was knocking before you rebuilt it, and now its still knocking and you didnt change ur bearings. so i reckon could be a bottom end knocking

i dont know if you can change the bearings while the motor is still in, if you have enough room to take the sump out and change the bearings

nah this is a different motor to my old one that was knocking, it was knocking the same though with the new motor, which leads me to believe that it is the lifters, or rockers as they are the only bits from my old engine.

i had a higher than standard lift/duration cam fitted to my R31 RB30E head, . . .not 100% sure as to why BUT the lifter cradles HAD to be machined to suit that cam, if you havnt had that done then that could be your problem

yer i have heard that to but i dont know the specs for the cam so i dont know how much needs to be machines off the lifter blocks

SPINR31 Explorer

SPINR31

Posted
  • Author
Posted

2nd issue - Crank Angle Sensor

yer cheers, i thought it may have been, do you know if vl and r31 CAS are the same? i read somewhere that the vl use hitachi ones and the r31 use mitsubishi? but does it matter :)

BOOZTJUNKEY Proficient

BOOZTJUNKEY

Posted
Posted

yer cheers, i thought it may have been, do you know if vl and r31 CAS are the same? i read somewhere that the vl use hitachi ones and the r31 use mitsubishi? but does it matter :)

General rule of thumb is ...

If it plugs in it "should work" but either way they should be the same

StevenCJR31 Veteran

StevenCJR31

Posted
Posted

nah this is a different motor to my old one that was knocking, it was knocking the same though with the new motor, which leads me to believe that it is the lifters, or rockers as they are the only bits from my old engine.

yer i have heard that to but i dont know the specs for the cam so i dont know how much needs to be machines off the lifter blocks

pull the cam out and take it to a cam grinder and they will have the means of measuring the lift and duration of your cam, from there you can work out if/how much you need to machine off the lifter cradle

be aware that using old lifters is fraught with problems, if they arent matched up to the lobe that they were running on before then they can be noisy, always use new lifters with a new cam and buy good quality lifters, i made the mistake of getting cheap ones and the effing things didnt fit nicely in the lifter cradle

SPINR31 Explorer

SPINR31

Posted
  • Author
Posted

pull the cam out and take it to a cam grinder and they will have the means of measuring the lift and duration of your cam, from there you can work out if/how much you need to machine off the lifter cradle

be aware that using old lifters is fraught with problems, if they arent matched up to the lobe that they were running on before then they can be noisy, always use new lifters with a new cam and buy good quality lifters, i made the mistake of getting cheap ones and the effing things didnt fit nicely in the lifter cradle

yer i was going to take it to wade cams in melbourne, having said that who does lifter cradle machining, closest to bendigo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Komdotkom
      High temp brake fluid?

      By Komdotkom · Posted

      Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Duncan
      First/Second Post

      By Duncan · Posted

      Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • svenskalice
      First/Second Post

      By svenskalice · Posted

      Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • svenskalice
      Kaizo Industries

      By svenskalice · Posted

      Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • believer
      HKS Vcam Step Pro Issues

      By believer · Posted

      I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...