Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I figured this would interest anyone with an NA, the plan with this car is basically to run a low 14/high 13 second pass while staying completely naturally aspirated so no nitrous/SC/turbo etc and while staying in street trim, so no stripping its guts out. Kinda want to do this just to prove it can be done and to stop people from calling NA cars slow, while they can't compete with a turbo $ for $, they do quite well for what they are.

Here are the Specs:

1990 Nissan 300ZX Z32 "Slicktop"

1430kg

131.4rwkw Dyno tested(previous owner)

Mods:

2.5" Twin UAS Catback Exhaust

2.5" Custom Front Pipes

K&N Pod Filter

Go Fast Bits Underdrive Pulley

F1 Racing "stage 3" 6 button clutch

ECUtalk Consult Display Unit

Bought the car back in 2009 with a 2.5" Custom catback, UDP, Pod & standard clutch for $6200. Was a very nice looking car, atleast to me, and the motor was in perfect nick so i decided to buy it.

From when i first bought it

40468_419246482610_631967610_5279391_5732458_n.jpg

39858_419246367610_631967610_5279386_2034086_n.jpg

40633_419246597610_631967610_5279396_6055831_n.jpg

DSC00227.jpg

Not long after i bought it did i have my first go at the dragstrip, here are some photo's

196863_10150100775893133_599203132_6325164_5372120_n1.jpg

196788_10150103152578133_599203132_6345852_1469485_n.jpg

190394_10150103152503133_599203132_6345850_4138484_n.jpg

184250_10150103152543133_599203132_6345851_5009052_n.jpg

185839_10150103152613133_599203132_6345853_1346527_n.jpg

After 5 runs the best i could come up with was a 15.017 @ 97.22MPH :(. My clutch was slipping on anything more then a 2500rpm launch so i had to take off really easy.

nem.jpg

About 5 months after that my clutch decided to call it quits, held up well for a stock clutch IMO. After looking for hours i decided on my new clutch, a "Gripforce F1" racing Stage 3 Button Clutch. Oh boy did this take some getting use to for the first day, soon as i picked up the car i got stuck in peakhour traffic! At the drags was chirping 3rd gear at 100KPH :D

stage_3-500x500.jpg

A good 1500k's had passed and the clutch had been well worn in i decided to have another crack at the drags, i HAD to get that 14 second pass!

Decided i would take it easy on my first run so i wouldn't stuff up, managed a 14.847 @ 95MPH first try! :happy: What was even funnier was that i had tried to select 4th but had trouble so i let off a bit before the finish line. Ok Second run, was really excited to see what i could get, time to see what it was capable of :D

sdstreetmeet051011_090.jpg

Timeslip, a 14.6!:

nemz.jpg

Not Bad considering a lot of first gear was wheelspin and i hit the rev limiter before the finish line! :D

Rear tyres are chinese crap 235/45R17's and were set to 25psi during my runs. After taking my car to Unigroup Engineering, Yavuz concluded that i should be able to run a 14.4 Second pass with a slightly better launch as my 60footer was a pathetic 2.315 seconds.

Mods coming up:

1 Piece Lightweight Tailshaft

Decat Pipes for the track only

AMS Lightweight Pulley Set

Piggyback Ecu of some sort, Either an APEXi SAFC or NIStune.

RE55 Semi Slicks on stock Rims.

Looking to get that 60footer down to 2.1 - 2.0 to see what i can squeeze out of it, no internal work done standard heads & bottom end. I'm fairly confident it will pull a low 14 second pass after work has been done, just have to wait and see, will keep you guys updated! Only things i can imagine would hold me back are my wallet, the clutch and my driving :P

Edited by Super Drager
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381349-the-road-to-13s/
Share on other sites

someone has to say it, might as well be me.

run a 13 second pass = engine out.......

on a serious note, scrap the pulley set and tail shaft and invest in a set of cams. go with a nistune and the semi slicks and you should be able to crack a high 13.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381349-the-road-to-13s/#findComment-6082256
Share on other sites

If drags are what you want to do then get drag tyres, MT ETs or Toyo TQs, street legal and you should be able to get 1.7-1.8 60 fts, leave the RE55s for track guys.

Do the pulleys, can't hurt, and a piggy back comp and with good tyres and a bit of practise on your take off your nearly there

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381349-the-road-to-13s/#findComment-6082702
Share on other sites

If drags are what you want to do then get drag tyres, MT ETs or Toyo TQs, street legal and you should be able to get 1.7-1.8 60 fts, leave the RE55s for track guys.

Do the pulleys, can't hurt, and a piggy back comp and with good tyres and a bit of practise on your take off your nearly there

no it won't hurt, but it's probably one of the worst value for money mods you can do

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381349-the-road-to-13s/#findComment-6083903
Share on other sites

someone has to say it, might as well be me.

run a 13 second pass = engine out.......

on a serious note, scrap the pulley set and tail shaft and invest in a set of cams. go with a nistune and the semi slicks and you should be able to crack a high 13.

The pullies are less than $100 from a mate so i might aswell throw them on, as for cams i want to do this with a standard longblock....i know 13's is a big stretch but a low(er) 14 is something i'd still be happy with for a P plater's car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381349-the-road-to-13s/#findComment-6084424
Share on other sites

thats a good time, i bet some of the twin turbo standard ones dont do much better,

i wouldnt of thought a button clutch would of been the best choice, you cant really slip it off the line that well can you?

looks like it can already do a high 13 with better launch and reaction time..:whistling::thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381349-the-road-to-13s/#findComment-6084438
Share on other sites

thats a good time, i bet some of the twin turbo standard ones dont do much better,

i wouldnt of thought a button clutch would of been the best choice, you cant really slip it off the line that well can you?

looks like it can already do a high 13 with better launch and reaction time..:whistling::thumbsup:

yeah button clutchs can be slipped like any other just not as nice to drive daily, reaction time has nothing to do with the ET, its a bad misconception, your time starts once you left the line not how long it takes to get off it :thumbsup: and always drive past the finish line

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381349-the-road-to-13s/#findComment-6084528
Share on other sites

Ye my old OS twin plate was a bitch to slip off the line with my dodgy knees lol...made DYI comps hard because 1 run would be a 2.4sec 60' and the next 1.9'

But with enough tyre under the bum you dont need to slip....even with 1500hp :thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381349-the-road-to-13s/#findComment-6084530
Share on other sites

yeah button clutchs can be slipped like any other just not as nice to drive daily, reaction time has nothing to do with the ET, its a bad misconception, your time starts once you left the line not how long it takes to get off it :thumbsup: and always drive past the finish line

Reaction time does affect ET,

this from Willowbank raceway site:

Most newcomers to racing leave when the green light comes on. This will give a reaction time of well over a second. For example, if you pulled a 1.12 reaction time and your opponent ran a .060, you have given away over six tenths start right at the start line. For a more graphic example, with two cars of the same performance running 100 mile an hour in the quarter mile, this .66 wasted at the start represents 96 feet or about 6 car lengths at the finish line!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381349-the-road-to-13s/#findComment-6084590
Share on other sites

That's for heads up racing ala 1st to the finish line. The et doesn't change

You can have an 8 sec and a 17 sec car on the track 17 sec car leaves on the last yellow and the 8 sec car leaves 9 secs later it still runs an 8. Even though the cross the line at the same time. The timer doesn't start until the car leaves the beam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381349-the-road-to-13s/#findComment-6084592
Share on other sites

thats a good time, i bet some of the twin turbo standard ones dont do much better,

i wouldnt of thought a button clutch would of been the best choice, you cant really slip it off the line that well can you?

looks like it can already do a high 13 with better launch and reaction time..:whistling::thumbsup:

Yeah a few stock TT's were doing 14.4 sec from what i remember, but there have been a few factory freaks...i know of one that did 13.6 bog standard on good tyres, stock down to the airbox & stock catback. Currently i don't think the car will do a 13, a lower 14 definately possible but a 13 in current trim is a stretch. I only know of one NA 300ZX faster than mine and it had all the work i had and an APEXi SAFC running hankook ventus k104 tyres which was doing 14.54 @ 95MPH with 2.1 60ft. I figured all NA drivers would appreciate what i'm trying to do :P. The button clutch can be slipped but its not something i like doing to it, but for some odd reason i prefer driving it over a full face clutch.

Edited by Super Drager
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381349-the-road-to-13s/#findComment-6084612
Share on other sites

Reaction time does affect ET,

this from Willowbank raceway site:

Most newcomers to racing leave when the green light comes on. This will give a reaction time of well over a second. For example, if you pulled a 1.12 reaction time and your opponent ran a .060, you have given away over six tenths start right at the start line. For a more graphic example, with two cars of the same performance running 100 mile an hour in the quarter mile, this .66 wasted at the start represents 96 feet or about 6 car lengths at the finish line!

so if what your saying is right then the one on the right is a 6 second car

timeslip-61733-1284957813.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381349-the-road-to-13s/#findComment-6084646
Share on other sites

so if what your saying is right then the one on the right is a 6 second car

timeslip-61733-1284957813.jpg

WTF are you smoking?

Your reaction time is the time it takes from when the green light lights up, and when you break the first beam.

Your reaction time, is all about how QUICKLY you react to the green coming on. If you had come to the SAU NSW drag day we held not long back, Sydney Dragway officials even explained this.

What can quite majorly effect your ET is your 60 Foot time. This is the time it takes for you to travel the first 60 feet of the track. 0.1 of a saving here can be 0.2 of a saving at the top end of the track.

For your ET, your reaction time means NOTHING.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381349-the-road-to-13s/#findComment-6085138
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah no bearings, just slip fit.  Would be a reasonably challenging but not impossible job to modify it to run bearings but I'm hoping that's not necessary as I may have well built one myself if I end up spending hours modifying it!
    • Brumbys with good shells are bloody expensive, I've looked at 2 "cheaper" cars, and walked away from both,  plus after some research spare parts are fairly sparce I'm starting to think that I missed the boat on finding a clean one that is straight (ish) and without alot rust I'm starting to think about a old Hilux as panels and other parts are much more available as they sold tens of thousands of them I use to be indecisive but now I'm not sure
    • A Brumby would probably fit a big metal toolbox in the back... this is how it begins  
    • Picked up a new OEM boot seal for the MX5 today as the old one got ripped a bit by me being a idiot by seeing if I could fit a large metal tool box in it, it didn't fit, and ripped the seal with the corner of the tool box I am still waiting on time to get the cams and new balancer installed, as well as the repairs to the boot Time will not be an issue soon though
    • I was more thinking so it doesn't flop around as much rather than for rotating it. Once you have the balance right, it should rotate well enough, depending on how much resistance there is on the pivot. I think you said the pivot point was on a bearing though didn't you?
×
×
  • Create New...