Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 886
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Il post up a new thread with all the issues I had since the hypergear installation and what I did to fix them

Edit, il post it in here first and if there is a problem with what I say I can fix it before I create a reference thread.

Edited by lilcrash

Problems/issues installing a hypergear atr43ss-1 turbo.

1. Fouls on heat sheild on manifold - cut piece out to clear housing, dint the heat shield or use 10mm flange spacer.

2. Rear housing is 20mm longer - move all exhaust mounts forward 20mm

3. Water lines don't line up - get custom made lines

4. Oil drain on awkward angle - custom made oil drain

5. No boost reference nipple in turbo - weld on into one of your custom pipes

6. Needs custom intake - make custom intake

I doubt its the headgasket. Do a comp and leakdown test. U have been running 25psi. I would be a little concerned whether the tune was safe for that amount of boost. May be alright.

Clean all cooler pipes and catch can etc. Try running with catch can not connected to the turbo intake pipe. Run it into another can or bottle etc and monitor whther its still spewing out oil

I'm doing a comp test tonight, if it isn't head gasket i think it's deffinately rings. I clean up all I could reach, and have now swapped the intakes over until I can resolve this oil issue. I was steadily accelerating holding the throttle at 18/20psi when I started to smell the oil again. It only hit 25 psi 3/4times I don't feel it's safe at that level.

Ok turns out my engine is just rooted.

91,167,167,168,167,167. That was engine still hot, many burns on my fingers :(, poured oil into cyl 1 and it came up to 130psi. So yeah head gasket?

Air shouldn't be going past the piston rings..

You've Got some serious issues.

And when runnin that my boost, why the hell aren't you running a proper electronic boost controller?

Skimping on one of the most critical parts?

Can't be a head gasket if oil brought the compression up that much from 90psi.

I'd say that cylinder is about to grenade so I wouldn't even start the car anymore.

And if this is a standard engine, why the hell are you running 25psi of boost?

Seriously...

Are you getting paid to troll? Cause the more you reply you just add more and more f**kin

stupid comments...

First it was the tune, then the actuator, oil blowing out the ass end, headgasket...

Wats next? The chain slips on the sprocket? or it wont go into lo 4x4?

Take the f**kin thing to a mech and get them to solve it cause clearly you cant even let

alone describe your problems.

And the oil spraying could be because of the current problem could it not?

Boost issue still isn't completely resolved but clearly something has gone wrong somewhere. And as for the tune well that has absolutely nothing to do with me.

Yeah your oil problem could be as dramatic as it is because of Cyl 1.

Sounds like a cooked piston fr those symptoms (busted ring lands, crown) and that would let combustion pressure into the oil system.

Well there you have it. Get a 2nd hand motor and fix it. Consider taking it to a mechanic.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'd want an even MORE side on view. More or less you want to make sure the outlet is actually square with the outermost part of the bumper. Or you end up getting soot all over your bumper from your hektik exhaust. In any case, it looks pretty close. I think the way to fix this is probably more of an overhaul at an exhaust specialty shop if you want tips that are rounded off or sit nicely with the bumper but have proper clearance and don't move - Probably more of a redesign than a quick fix. I've pencilled in my own exhaust with its own various problems, pinholes, PITA fitment, and other issues and can see myself going to a shop and saying "JUST DO THIS BUT BETTER?"  Which is gonna work better than any more small fixes. I'm gonna chime in here officially with "from an outsider perspective this exhaust looks fine so this is self OCD probably" (which I also suffer from)
    • Reminds me I really need to install that HKS oil cooler I bought years ago.
    • It be 40°C outside lately. 10W60 is a good idea here. Well, certainly 10W50.
    • Here are some side on's.
    • I just did an oil change on my daily which used oil that is probably 2-3 years old. Normally I try to follow exact viscosities, but my LS400 is fairly tolerant. Dumped something like half a quart of 0W30 Mobil1 ESP X2 in there, followed by 2 quarts Pennzoil 5W30, followed by ~1.2 quarts of liquimoly 5W30 LL04 spec oil. Then the rest was QS euro 5W40 which is actually so thin it's basically a 30 weight oil. All this is to say it doesn't matter that much. We aren't talking about brake fluid. For an RB I would recommend a high ZDDP oil because it doesn't use rollers in the interface between the cam and valve, but a 5W30 or 5W40 is fine to use for street use. The 10W60 guidance really only applies if you're getting it hot and pushing the engine hard.
×
×
  • Create New...