Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 886
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Il post up a new thread with all the issues I had since the hypergear installation and what I did to fix them

Edit, il post it in here first and if there is a problem with what I say I can fix it before I create a reference thread.

Edited by lilcrash

Problems/issues installing a hypergear atr43ss-1 turbo.

1. Fouls on heat sheild on manifold - cut piece out to clear housing, dint the heat shield or use 10mm flange spacer.

2. Rear housing is 20mm longer - move all exhaust mounts forward 20mm

3. Water lines don't line up - get custom made lines

4. Oil drain on awkward angle - custom made oil drain

5. No boost reference nipple in turbo - weld on into one of your custom pipes

6. Needs custom intake - make custom intake

I doubt its the headgasket. Do a comp and leakdown test. U have been running 25psi. I would be a little concerned whether the tune was safe for that amount of boost. May be alright.

Clean all cooler pipes and catch can etc. Try running with catch can not connected to the turbo intake pipe. Run it into another can or bottle etc and monitor whther its still spewing out oil

I'm doing a comp test tonight, if it isn't head gasket i think it's deffinately rings. I clean up all I could reach, and have now swapped the intakes over until I can resolve this oil issue. I was steadily accelerating holding the throttle at 18/20psi when I started to smell the oil again. It only hit 25 psi 3/4times I don't feel it's safe at that level.

Ok turns out my engine is just rooted.

91,167,167,168,167,167. That was engine still hot, many burns on my fingers :(, poured oil into cyl 1 and it came up to 130psi. So yeah head gasket?

Air shouldn't be going past the piston rings..

You've Got some serious issues.

And when runnin that my boost, why the hell aren't you running a proper electronic boost controller?

Skimping on one of the most critical parts?

Can't be a head gasket if oil brought the compression up that much from 90psi.

I'd say that cylinder is about to grenade so I wouldn't even start the car anymore.

And if this is a standard engine, why the hell are you running 25psi of boost?

Seriously...

Are you getting paid to troll? Cause the more you reply you just add more and more f**kin

stupid comments...

First it was the tune, then the actuator, oil blowing out the ass end, headgasket...

Wats next? The chain slips on the sprocket? or it wont go into lo 4x4?

Take the f**kin thing to a mech and get them to solve it cause clearly you cant even let

alone describe your problems.

And the oil spraying could be because of the current problem could it not?

Boost issue still isn't completely resolved but clearly something has gone wrong somewhere. And as for the tune well that has absolutely nothing to do with me.

Yeah your oil problem could be as dramatic as it is because of Cyl 1.

Sounds like a cooked piston fr those symptoms (busted ring lands, crown) and that would let combustion pressure into the oil system.

Well there you have it. Get a 2nd hand motor and fix it. Consider taking it to a mechanic.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, so widen your search to any Nissan speedo first, then go wider if needed. I will say though, that there is a better than even chance that what I said first will likely come into play. They quite possibly won't come apart without damage. I tried to disassemble a stepper gauge that I wanted to repair. There was no way that needle was coming off the spindle, and I could not see how the spindle would come out of the mechanism behind. Assembled once, never to be disassembled, was my conclusion. Could be the same on the R34 cluster. Failing that - take the cluster to a workshop that specialises in automotive instrument work. There's usually at least one in every Australian city. They'll either be able to do it for you for small cost, or tell you it can't be done. It might be that "it can't be done" unless you follow some arcane procedure, including trickiness to glue it back together or something, that only experienced techs know.
    • Well, given that I, an engineer, almost never bring out the torque wrench to tighten up chassis bolts, despite fully knowing the theory, and instead rely on feel, which I happen to know is exactly how the majority of mechanics do things, should tell you the level of actual peril that exists from not achieving exactly 88 Nm of torque. How about if I just say then that 88Nm is at the lower end of the correct wheel nut torque range? Everyone knows how to tighten a wheel nut, right? And almost no-one ever brings out the torque wrench for that task
    • Don't be ridiculous. "2-3 ugga duggas or one Oof. You have to use Oof on tie rods because you can't get an ugga dugga on there." Is not helping the guy at all.
    • I have done a lot of research before posting here and on gtruk forum. couldn't find anything. I have my gauges all part except the needle itself. the needle has a extremely small hole in the center, but the shaft going to the needle is extremely small and appears to have nothing to index it either. doesn't seem strong enough to simple pry or pull without damaging something. Already tried the old spoon trick on a extra triple meter I have from a gtt, but no luck. the center cap comes off easily but the hole in the meter face plate aren't big enough to get over the needle itself. figured this would be my best place to find someone who might have actually removed theirs. wonder if there is some type of small pin press tool to push the pin in while pulling the needle base off.
    • Ok...its taking me long enough to finally do this.  Feck financial security...heart disease will get me soon enough anyway So welcome to the garage..."Clem" Belsil80 has been running a 370Z in Super TT series. So after entering with him in last years Winton 300 i figured I  need my own car. Seems SAU Vic race cars need to be yellow....{tick} Reckon with enough motor i will be able to make up for the lack of talent and stay ahead of the 370Z... but the LS powered S13 and E36s are a ways up the road Aim is to have a car that doesnt stop or turn but has a bit of shed built motor with jam...maybe some cream  First step is getting this ex drift car log booked I am keeping faithful silver car. As the road-club car gets upgrades the race car wil get the sloppy seconds
×
×
  • Create New...