Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

At least now you know its nothing f*Ing up. Fit the gasket and get it tuned, even if its a low boost quick tune somewhere prior to getting it in to your trusted tuner. Bloody important mate, don't just 'wait', get a basic tune done, otherwise you run the risk of ..... Well, you know.

  • Replies 886
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well then stop boosting it past a couple of psi (in my opinion undo the wastegate spring again). Sure, load up the engine but without boost. Detonation is Not your friend. Hitting 16psi isn't the right way about it.

300 km until I switch to normal oil. End of run in period.

I haven't let it get over 3/4psi again. I've been very very careful.

I won't have it off the road long enough to send my ecu to you. And I can't adjust anything without a password can I?

Yeah. That's what I meant.

I think I might just have to put my car into a mechanic to get the oil pump gasket replaced. It's just too big of a job to do it again.

Yeah I just did what a majority of people have done. High load slowly increasing max rpm. Oil change at 100km and 1000km. The oil analysis came back fine.

We dropped the sump just enough to clear the pump, cleaned it up and re sealed it all.

But it all went pear shaped this morning. I went to change the oil pressure sender over and it fell apart. So a mad push bike ride to the train station and now in on the train on my way to being late for work.

Edited by lilcrash

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’d love to find some where that can recover the dashes to look brand new and original. Mine has a very slight bubble, nothing compared to some I’ve seen though 
    • $170K. I asked one of the guys there as a joke if that price was just for the passenger seat as it was where the price sheet was... he tried really hard to crack a smile 😄 He also mentioned that every single part of the car was inspected and either restored or replaced with a new or as new part, or made from scratch. The interior was incredible, every inch like a new car.
    • Time for a modernisation, throw out the AFM, stock O2s, ECU into the e-waste bin. Rip out the cable throttle, IACV, pedal, etc. into the scrap metal bin. DBW, e-throttle, modern ECU, CANbus wideband, and the thing will drive better than when it left the factory.
    • I agree, don't go trusting those trims. As I said, first step is to put the logger away, and do the basics in diagnosis.   I spend plenty of time with data loggers. I also spend plenty of time teaching "technicians" why they need to stop using their data loggers, and learn real diagnostics.   The amount of data logs I play with would probably blow most people away. I don't just use it to diagnose. I log raw CAN data too, as a nice chunk of my job is reverse engineering what automotive manufacturers are doing.
    • I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
×
×
  • Create New...