Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 886
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I think you miss understood what I was saying, I purchase my car 5years ago in stock form, there has been nothing but problems since. I don't think there is many stock parts left to replace.

WARNING - CSH about to begin.

There is a guy on another forum.

He has an R31 GTSX.

He has millions of spares including 2 x GTSR manifolds.

Anyway..

he had this issue with a missfire.

he replaced the coils, spark plugs, vacuum lines, fuel pump, injector seals, filters etc etc.

spent months

Then went to try a different ECU.

The ECU he tried didn't work

Plugged his old ECU back in.

On the drive home, car worked like it was from the showroom.

Basically, he had dust or some sort of crap in either the loom plug or ECU plug.

the removal of the ecu, then plugging in another then the original cleaned the pin enough for it to stop f**king up.

point of my story is it could be something very simple giving you your head aches.

something you haven't touched.

Engine has been rebuilt.

can't be that (well unlikely)

What has not been changed?

Did you get new silicon hoses for the intercooler?

have you made a simple tester to find any air leaks (mountain bike tube, hand pump and 10 minutes of your time can do this)

what is the ECU? have you cleaned the connectors with electrical contact cleaner?

AFM? (cleaned? resoldered? tried a known working one?)

coil packs?

fuel filter?

fuel pump rewired to get full voltage full time?

air intake sucking closed?

oxygen sensor f**ked?

Cat convertor functional? (remove cat and cat back and test drive (bit loud))

to be honest I can't remember what you have and haven't tried cause it's been going for so long now.

All I have replaced about half of my joins, I'm in the process of doing the rest just ran out of hose.

Yeah I made a tester at work with a built in guage.

Nistune. Il clean them when I get a spare couple of minutes.

Brand new z32 afm

Splitfires

New filter

Walbro hard wired

3inch steel intake with an apexi pod

I think I might try the o2 sensor next

It's a gutted cat. But as said earlier it's got a hks cat back so it is restrictive.

I think the exhaust is just masking the real problem, you shouldn't be having boost control issues just because you have a free-flowing exhaust. The surge issue is different though, have you checked where your TP cut has been set to?

The boost issue was from exhaust restriction, what else or other mufflers do you have in the exhaust pipe? have you ever tried a dyno run with the exhaust dropped off before the cat? if you are making 230rwkws now on 14psi then I don't think you should have an issue doing 250rwkws at 18psi.

Running rough with black smoke and flooded spark plugs is not a definition for compressor surging. its got some thing to do with injection, AFM and ignition. Its freaks me out as you can give any thing that goes wrong with you car a name that links to the turbocharger.

I have a Nistune license, I can't give to you but if you wish to send me your tune file and tell me the part of the data you wish to change, then I can have that changed for you and return the updated file. How ever I'm not responsible if what ever I've asked to change makes the situation worse.

Stao - sorry if you miss understood, I'm not saying it's turbo related. The boost is sitting very stable at 14/15psi constantly, the car just feels like it pulls then doesn't then pulls again. As if I'm opening and closing the throttle. It's a really strange feeling, but now that I think about it it's only been since I installed the front shaft, I will do the diagnostic to turn off the 4wd and see if it still does it, maybe there is just too much driveline for my tune to handle. It's very hard to diagnose a particular issue when you have 2 other problems at the same time.

Yeah I've been keeping my eye out for something but I've also gotta have the cash for tyres, as said above I'm due for a new set anyway. I'm almost tempted to just find a brand new set, like all I need is a cheap rim/tyre combo in a 17x8 +6 or 17x9 +30. It's a pretty common size.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
    • Some of them keep working fine. 9 out of 10 of them end up causing an absolute misery bleeding the system and get thrown on the workshop floor in a tantrum and never thought about again because they were never really needed and just added crap to the car that we could have done without. Same-same with HICAS, A-LSD, and various other stupidities that over eager 10x engineers thought we had to have.
    • Not required but appreciated. Super Coppermix Twin even the non-competition model feels like the pedal is noticeably heavier than stock which was pretty well judged IMO. I'll be swapping in the Nismo operating cylinder soon to see how that feels.  Personally I haven't felt anything that justifies replacing the damping loop, at least compared to more modern stuff where the clutch delay valve is actually quite noticeable.
×
×
  • Create New...