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Thread For My Car Problems.


lilcrash
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Ok, I thought it would be a good idea but just confirming things. This is my first Nissan rebuild so parts that are actually easy to buy is new to me.

I can only find 3 pumps, n1, tomei and nitto. I'm pretty sure that the tomei and nitto would be over kill, but what about the n1. Is it too big too?

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For future reference. The valves listed in the ferea catalogue are different to the Nissan valves. My machinist ordered one in to replace my worn out one and it didnt have the step down for the retainers, $45 was what he paid for it. Nissan are supplying me with a genuine one for $34.

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Yep. Also know the feeling of trying to work out a problem that seems so simple to others, and yet in the end has nothing to do with what anyone said. Chocco, not everyone here is an expert on cars, give the guy a break.

Lilcrash, sorry if I missed it mate, but have you explained how you have your breathers plumbed in? I'm assuming you're using a catch can and it's not just the stock setup yeh?

Like when my car wouldn't start, I tried everything then suggested broken camshaft, everyone lold and said no way, in the end it was an broken camshaft haha.

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Just read all this thread, when you finally get it running again promise you won't run more than 10psi without getting it to a tuner first, get the tuner to strip out timing and make it ridiculously rich, even up in the load cells you aren't close to touching. Then go play with the actuators and get the right boost, once you have the right boost take it back and get it tuned at that boost.

Remember if you change nothing you will blow the new motor up just as fast, the issue wasn't with the motor, it was with everything else.

Should save a repeat incident. Good luck with it all. :)

Edited by Rolls
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I'm still confused as to what went wrong but yeah I am putting the smallest actuator I have here on I think it's about 7psi, depending on if I run it in on the road or on the dyno it will go straight to the dyno for run in or straight to the dyno after run in. I will get it looked over, dyno checked at 7psi and once I'm sure nothing is faulty I will put the original 20psi actuator ( that dropped to 14psi ) on and see what happens. hopefully It will hold 18psi to redline. If not il just put the 7psi on and turn it up to 1 bar and leave it.

Just for future reference, problems I've found so far - head gasket pealing apart, loose exhaust manifold nut( cause for the noise? ), inlet valve number 9 was about to drop as the retainer/valve stem area was worn and worn out rings in cyl 1

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I'm still confused as to what went wrong but yeah I am putting the smallest actuator I have here on I think it's about 7psi, depending on if I run it in on the road or on the dyno it will go straight to the dyno for run in or straight to the dyno after run in. I will get it looked over, dyno checked at 7psi and once I'm sure nothing is faulty I will put the original 20psi actuator ( that dropped to 14psi ) on and see what happens. hopefully It will hold 18psi to redline. If not il just put the 7psi on and turn it up to 1 bar and leave it.

Just for future reference, problems I've found so far - head gasket pealing apart, loose exhaust manifold nut( cause for the noise? ), inlet valve number 9 was about to drop as the retainer/valve stem area was worn and worn out rings in cyl 1

You ran 25psi without a tune, that is what went wrong. Even 20psi when tuned for 15psi will almost certainly detonate. I remember telling you in the hypergear thread months ago not to do this, all it takes is 10 seconds of sustained detonation and pop goes your motor is the result the majority of the time.

Don't do anything and see what happens, get it on a dyno first thing and do not boost it even once. Get the tune right, then play with things WHILST on the dyno. If you don't I can guarantee you will blow up your new motor.

Please DO NOT put the 20psi actuator on without being on the dyno. All your problems that you listed are caused by detonation.

Edited by Rolls
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yeah i meant i would be doing all the stuffing around while on the dyno. if its all caused by detonation then there is my answer, i didnt realize detonation could wear out rings. but it is good to know that the tune is to blame. so thanx *** *********** for all the problems you have caused, apart from the oil pouring out which was caused by the rings dieing due to prolonged detonation im guessing. that same detonation sound could be heard from the second i picked up my car, thats half the reason i called them 10 minutes after i picked it up, and never got a call back.

oh well new motor and new tuner, lets hope it all goes well.

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I was on here asking questions about it when all hell broke lose in the first place.

I was never intending to make that much boost, I didn't really think the new actuator was that much bigger then my old one. Neither of the other actuators make the boost they are specified as so yeah stao said 22/23. I thought oh yeah 18/19.

Edited by lilcrash
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