Jump to content
SAU Community

Stock R33 Rear Diff Oil Recommendation?

KrazyKong
 Share

Recommended Posts

KrazyKong Proficient

KrazyKong

Posted
Posted (edited)

What brand and weight are people using on their Skylines for the rear diff oil?

I have a '96 R33 GTST Auto. It's pretty much stock accept for high flow, an air pod, boost grounding and a FMIC. I havn't upped the boost or done any other mods to the car.

I saw this thread here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/317121-how-too-change-front-and-rear-diff-oil/ where is mentions

R33 Standard rear diff - 75w-90

Am wondering if that is what people are actually using, or if they are using something else. I have no idea when the diff oil was last changed, so figured it was time I put some new stuff in.

I'm using G&W Syntrans in my auto transmission btw, which is pretty much identical to the Castrol Transmax Z.

Anyway, wondering what my options are as far as Brands for the diff oil, and the correct weight to use.

Edited by KrazyKong
Moodles2 Grand Master

Moodles2

Posted
Posted

75w90, 80w90, 85w90, 75w85 all 4 will do as they are pretty much sameness. As long as the gear oil conforms to at least GL-4 (GL-5 is fine too).

If i recall correctly GTST's have a viscous LSD which means the LSD component is sealed and don't need an LSD specific oil, whereas GTRs have hypoid LSDs which require a LSD compatible oil.

central coast person Proficient

central coast person

Posted
Posted

Standard or LSD???

If its just the standard rear diff +1 for post above. The GL rating is like a quailty rating and its just 4 or higher.

If its a LSD is more important you must use 80w-140, the reason is because its a hypoid type oil and a hypoid diff has such high pressure between the crown and pinon gears that if it was normal oil in there it would squeeze the molecules out between the pinion and crown gears and not lubricate it.

KrazyKong Proficient

KrazyKong

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

I'm pretty sure my car is a standard and not an LSD. I don't have the LSD light on my dash. Is there another way to verify what's in my car?

I went ahead and put in some Castrol Rear Axle LSX90 (GL-5) based on a friend having it in their '95 R33 GTST Series 1 Manual.

post-63769-0-17621800-1320372136_thumb.jpg

However something strange is now happening which could be a co-incidence or not. I have an Auto as I mentioned before. The gear changes are smooth, but actually moving the gear selector from "P" to "D", or even "R" is hard to do. I can feel something thumping into place and is directly related to me moving the gear lever in and out of "Park". It's very similar to when you park facing down a hill and the car rolls a fraction when you put in and out of "Park". This happens in the morning mostly, and isn't as noticeable when driving home from work. However the weather lately has been warm so I'm not sure this is a temperature related issue. Previously the weather made no difference even in cold Winters to being able to move the gear selector smoothly.

Is the gear lever/selector directly connected with the Axle oil, or only with the transmission fluid? I had brand new fully synthetic trans fluid put in the car for a service a year ago.

What should I do? Will driving the car damage anything right now? Is my gearbox about die? or did I put the wrong axle oil in. My gut feeling is I might have the wrong axle oil in my car, but right now I'm not sure what to do.

Edited by KrazyKong
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Changing the diff oil might (as in just might) make the backlash in the diff slightly more noticable so that when you change into/out of gear with the auto selector, the change in direction of load via the tailshaft to the pinion/crownwheel will result in a little thump as the gears mesh up. Maybe the oil that came out was quite a thick one, or maybe it was a proper LSD oil and so had some different properties that masked the thump.

I wouldn't worry about it.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R33 GTR lift points for hoist

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Don't "upload" the pictures. Just copy the picture direct from somewhere (I usually am pasting screenshots or something else that I have on the clipboard as an image, not as a file" and just paste it direct into the post editor. Just like you were pasting it into a Word doc or something. You can't damage something if you lift it where you are supposed to. If you look carefully at the correct jacking points, you will see that they are reinforced right there. And nowhere else. That is where the "foot" of the factory jack is supposed to sit. That's why you need rubber pads with slots. 10mm might not be deep enough. Note also that the slots are not required if the pinchweld has already been slammed flat. You could just lift it at the correct spot with a flat pad, because the damage is already done. No point in making worse though, if it is recoverable. IF. Yes, that's called a chassis rail. You can lift carefully on these, if you spread the load. A decent block of wood is good. But keep in mind what I said before. Any time you start doing this sort of thing, you are off the normal path and into "be bloody careful", because it is obviously not stable. Dumb. The refinforcement is already there. See above.
    • Duncan
      R33 GTR lift points for hoist

      By Duncan · Posted

      yeah looks like they've been lifted there previously but with solid not slitted rubber blocks. I'd just bend them back (combination of vice grips or hammer with some sort of drift, then hit the area with underbody protection paint. As for the siderails, I'd call those chassis rails and that is exactly what I meant about being careful with the balance point. You can probably lift off them at the point where the 2 pieces overlap, but you need to be careful with the forward balance of the car if you do when the engine is in....sills are a better choice. I guess you could weld some reinforcement in the sill area near the jacking points but it shouldn't be necessary if you use blocks with a slit. If you do want to reinforce it I'd use square section equal or taller than the seam and then just use flat rubber blocks for lifting
    • sunsetR33
      R33 GTR lift points for hoist

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      driver side sidemember and jacking point (looks the worst by far) driver side rear jack point passenger side sidemember and jack point passenger side rear jack point   Ignore my mug on the last photo. Turns out I was just too stupid to properly use the forum's attachment feature previously
    • sunsetR33
      R33 GTR lift points for hoist

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Fk me, I guess next time I will try to use the onsite attachments feature. I find it hard to work with so far though because I can't move the images to where I want them to be. I will try to make a separate post with just images. As for lifting. The work I need to do for now involves the exhaust and engine mainly, so the arm covering the jacking points is not a problem. But I don't want to bend in the whole sill or underfloor by lifting the car at the original jack points. I found some rubber blocks, 125 by 125 with a 10mm wide and 10mm deep cutout, which I'm hoping will work for not hitting the jacking rail. The sidemember, as seen in the service manual, are the rectangular frame rails that come from the front of the car and go alongside the gearbox and downpipe. Those that get crushed inwards if you use them for a floorjack. They are already slightly bent in from being used to hoist by other people. I think cutting off the jacking points and welding or bolting on a reinforcement plate along the sill might not be a dumb idea. Or is it dumb?     A 2 post hoist is what I'm gonna work with, but not for any underbody work, just leaky engine and exhaust work so far. Depends on what else I find that might need immediate attention. For metalwork on the sills I think I'd just bring the car to a panel beater. What's your take on getting rid of the original jacking rails and putting reinforcement plates along the sills?
    • sunsetR33
      Custom titanium intake

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Yeah titanium always looks cool but I don't need that, just regular pipes would be fine. But I am really struggling to find any full hardpipe kit that is still for sale.
×
×
  • Create New...