Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi I just replaced the head and installed a set of Tomei cams and my car will not start, I had to use a neo crank angle sensor due to the key way on the cam but i managed to rig up the old sensor with the new key way with the same results. All my Timing marks line up 100 percent on the crank and 2 cams and i have replaced plugs checked for fuel and even tried a timing light while cranking. I have a emanage computer which tells me that the car while trying to start is sitting on 172rpm and timing is at 18 degress. I have pulled the plugs out and have seen the plugs firing and also seen fuel going into the bore. I did have a fuse blow while the wiring was changed for the crank angle sensor but that has since been replaced i have also gone through my car with the muilti meter and have not found any other blown fuses. I am using standard cam gears not aftermarket so they can only be installed one way. Anyones help would be greatly appreciated The car will not even try to start it only turns over and over .....whilst getting fuel and spark....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381591-car-not-running/
Share on other sites

I am currently waiting on the nissan consult software and cable to verify timing but the location of the sensor was exactly in the same position. also adjusting didnt seem to do much either i am currently waiting on another cas

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381591-car-not-running/#findComment-6087146
Share on other sites

Cranking revs seem a bit low (300 would be better), and RBs seem to like LOTS of timing (around 45 deg) to start.

Also, you have probably now flooded the engine. You need to crank with WOT until it fires.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381591-car-not-running/#findComment-6087318
Share on other sites

Cranking revs seem a bit low (300 would be better), and RBs seem to like LOTS of timing (around 45 deg) to start.

Also, you have probably now flooded the engine. You need to crank with WOT until it fires.

My car always fired up when it was hitting 44 degrees timing, now it never starts first time when cold and only hits 25 degrees. Do you just use map tracer and see what cells are used during cranking and up them?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381591-car-not-running/#findComment-6088525
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
×
×
  • Create New...