Which Oil

[Dasmbo]

Hi i have rebuilt my r33 rb25 engine and it is up for its first oil change.

Mods full forged bottom end nitto oil pump

I have read many threads on which oil to use i went to my local autobarn and they wanted to sell me

Royal Purple oil which i think had traces of GOLD in it or at least its price reflected that he also said that i could get 10,000kms

between oil changes i think he was full of ####.

Most other places dont even have r33 skyline listed.

Is there any benifit in using full synth oil over semi synth and so many different grades i dont mind paying extra for the right oil that

is suitable for australian conditions i just want to start off with 1 brand and type/grade of oil and keep it that way.

[DVS JEZ]

Street driving i run Penrite HPR10-50 $45ish

When im on the circuit i run RedLine 10-50 $120 for 6L

No matter how good quality te oil is i change it before a track day, then back to Penrite after the track.

Keep it fresh.

What sort of driving do u have planned?

Did u fit a bigger/baffled sump

[Dasmbo]

Hi ill be using it mainly street driving maybe an occasional trip to the drags with a couple of friends

and i have a std sump not a aftermarket baffled sump i do have 1 oil feed to the head blocked as

this was recomended to me as i was installing the nitto pump. I used to change my oil and filter every

5000kms and i used nulon full synthetic oil previously.

[pipster11]

read the thread at the top of this section, maybe start from the end

i run the gulf western semi-synth stuff

$33/5litres, and it runs though my stagea better than the nulon did, nulon made my top end a little noisy

i know a lot of people bag it out, most of those ppl have never used it

at the end of the day it comes down to personal preference, but royalpurple will last 10,000kms as will many oils

if your gonna do 5,000km changes (i do too, gw oil gets dark quickly, which means its working) use something decent but not too exxy

iu used to run penrite but found gw both are good IMHO, penrite lost me when they added all this "extra 10" nonsense

[reeceo21]

http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf

This article should make it easier

[Moodles2]

http://www.animegame...Oil%20Tests.pdf

This article should make it easier

http://www.streetcommodores.com.au/news/01_oils_aint_oils.php

You may want to edit out the link to that oil test article that even street commodores admitted that it was irrelevant, unless you like looking like an idiot.

[Dasmbo]

Hi thanks to all whq replied to my pst i have done my first oil change and i have gone with

Castol Edge 10w 60 synthetic with advertised additives the local autobarn and not so

cheap have a limited selection cost $73.00 did notice staight away increase in oil pressure

with engine hot at idle i think i will give this a go for a while

[89CAL]

I didn't like Castrol edge in my car. think i was running 10w40 and the oil pressure was to high for my liking on a cold day. switched back to motul 8100 x-cess at next service

[smithy85]

^^^ I too run Motul 8100 X-cess (in the GTR) and have done now for over 4 years.

Really good oil, can be grabbed from Autobarn for about $76 and change it out at about 3,500-4,000km as the car is daily driven, never any issues.

[luvpsi]

I didn't like Castrol edge in my car. think i was running 10w40 and the oil pressure was to high for my liking on a cold day. switched back to motul 8100 x-cess at next service

I have a autometer electronic oil pressure gauge what should the pressure be at warm idle mine tends to be around 20psi last tine I checked as I don't drive the car to often

[NISSAN GTR]

Theres only one oil to be used - ULX 110 its $70 made in the U.S.A i have seen the internal wear from other well named products versus ULX = Amazing

Edited November 7, 2011 by NISSAN GTR

[ike]

Hi i have rebuilt my r33 rb25 engine and it is up for its first oil change.

Mods full forged bottom end nitto oil pump

I have read many threads on which oil to use i went to my local autobarn and they wanted to sell me

Royal Purple oil which i think had traces of GOLD in it or at least its price reflected that he also said that i could get 10,000kms

between oil changes i think he was full of ####.

Most other places dont even have r33 skyline listed.

Is there any benifit in using full synth oil over semi synth and so many different grades i dont mind paying extra for the right oil that

is suitable for australian conditions i just want to start off with 1 brand and type/grade of oil and keep it that way.

I would recommend redline 10w40 and run it for 10-15k just change the filter every 5000 max.

Works out a lot cheaper than putting cheap stuff in every 5k. This is only for street driving.

On the track use the same oil just change it after racing.

Not sure what you mean by Australian conditions, inside an engine is the same wherever you are.

[luvpsi]

It all comes down to the climate swell I have read somewhere that aus conditions should use a Thicker oil than colder countries etc

[pipster11]

Spot on

Be cause the ambient temps are much higher than in say Europe or a jap mountain our motors are more likely to see higher oil and coolant temps

What ya gonna do? Use a slightly thicker oil (probably on one weight higher)

[luvpsi]

That's it Im using a oil for the first time united1 10w50 one of blokes here in WA works for united oil and uses it in his race car with no problems at all my temps sit lower than ever and we currently facing 37 degree days at the moment