Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Who has fitted, or currently going through fitting a CAI box bought in the recent group buy?

Tried yesterday to get it, but ran into hurdles. Mainly the bonnet closing once all together. Will go out there in a few minutes and pull it all apart and give it another try.

Anybody have any photos of a succesful installation? Would help greatly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/38169-installing-cai-box-from-group-buy/
Share on other sites

Done, and DONE... came up very nicely! see the attached shots.

You can also see in one of these shots where I've got the plastic pipe (previous owner did this) coming up from the front bar into just under the pod. Should provide plenty of feed of cold air.

I was just bending the metal up around near the strut too much, it needed to come closer towards the engine to get it all straighter for the lid to come on.

Have to thank Brendan (dsturbed) for an excellent job. Almost factory look in the end and all the holes, etc were perfectly lined up for all the little plugs and the like that have to look through.

All it needs now is a sticker as a finishing touch :D

And the inside shots.. you can see where the plastic tubing from the front bar comes out, just under the pod there.

You can also see the CAI material I had from previously, wrapped that around to provide a bit more heat protection.

And finally.. a basic install pic and some instructions.. the numbers go to the ones on the pic

1. Undo bolts for carbon canister bracket.

2. Disconnect all hoses to carbon cannister. There is a hose down the bottom you will have to disconnect also to feed it through the box. You should be able to move it around a bit now. As you can see, it sits *in* the box, whereas the metal feed tube sits outside the box. You'll work it out.

3. Undo the rubber elbow down there for the intercooler. Both at the intercooler end, and towards the turbo end. Basically will have to take it off to feed it through the box. I found the best way was with the hose clamp *in* the box.

4. Disconnect the rubber intake hose to the turbo up near the AFM. Fit the box in the engine bay. Once the box is fitted, the AFM and pod will sit inside the box, whereas the rubber pipe will be clamped on *outside* the box. You will need to pull and stretch it up a fair bit, and it IS a prick to stretch it up to the AFM, whilst tightening the clamp (an extra hand may help)

5. There should be a screw point here, use the correct sized screw or nut & bolt to secure that point to near the wheel arch. The other mount point is under the carbon canister bracket as you can see

Reconnect all your plugs and hoses, feeding them through the provided holes where necessary. As you can see, its not a bad place to mount the boost controller or valve.

I'll shutdup now :D

you going to stick that insulation down? just thinking that the pod make suck it all over the place/ block you intake. :D i think i will get some black rubber to stick over that hole for the stock IC pipes.

thanks for taking pics. now i will know if i i have done it wrong :D

Nice installation and looks very professional...

wish I knew about this before i went and built my own dammit.

Can anyone tell me where to get the flexible hose from to duct from the front bar to the box? Autobarn tried to sell me about 1m for 30 bucks... Fook that!

Here are some shots of mine

Nice installation and looks very professional...

wish I knew about this before i went and built my own dammit.

Can anyone tell me where to get the flexible hose from to duct from the front bar to the box? Autobarn tried to sell me about 1m for 30 bucks... Fook that!

Here are some shots of mine

Ronin 09 Your installation looks even better!! :D

With regard to the corrugated tubing it's ok but I wouldnt use it I'd be using 90mm plastic drain pipe....a bit harder to use but well worth the effort

http://members.optushome.com.au/jay51/Cold...ntake%20012.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Also had a look at the Nissan JP website looks like the 400r has a slightly shorter ratio than than the regular V37 3.133 VS 2.937 which from a guy who has driven both 3.69 vs 4.11 ratios in the S15 is bugger all. Seems that the AUTO Z runs the same ratio as the 400R but can't find any info as to if its an open or LSD? More often than not the auto LSD is open
    • Do not replace the power steering lines with this stuff. If it's anything like the Chase Bays stuff it will leak and be worse than stock. The reason why the reservoir is on the LH/passenger side of the car is because that's just where the reservoir was most convenient to fit. Don't overthink this stuff. The intake/cold side of the engine is pretty busy on these cars. And again, the hardpipe is designed to be a janky power steering cooler. In theory you can replace it with a real power steering cooler but that's really only for track use where boiling the fluid is a distinct possibility. Start with the low pressure lines feeding the pump from the reservoir. Make sure there isn't a bunch of junk in the reservoir filter. Be careful to not get ATF all over the engine bay. I hate dealing with ATF spills, you can clean it up and the slightest crevice will still release more oil that can still drip over time. You also want to inspect for leaks before you make a mess and can't tell what happened. Most likely you have a leak somewhere that is allowing fluid out and air in. Failing that it's allowing air in but not fluid out. Only place I can really see that happening is on the low pressure side because the pump will pull a slight vacuum to draw fluid in. Everything after the pump is high pressure or lower pressure, approaching atmospheric by the time it returns to the reservoir.
    • I did a skidpan night at SMSP this week, it was much cheaper than $350. But yeah, you need to slap an LSD in that thing.  I put an OS Giken in the 370Z and it's f**king MARVELOUS even compared to Nissan's viscous LSD. So you're saying it's free now that it's a housing estate? 😂
    • Nah, the car seems to run exactly as it did prior, in saying this it does "seem" to be better down low, like more eager to rev, but that may be 100% placebo effect from intake noise But, I'm not worried about it at all, in the end it is a fairly low compression NA engine that has a well shrouded intake,  if it is getting hotter IAT I cannot notice anything negative performance wise from the seat of my pants thrashing it about on the street or sitting in traffic, so meh, car now now makes induction noise so I'm happy
    • Do you have an IAT sensor? It's worth checking it to see. You may be suprised how little gap you actually need to flood your engine with hot air. (I tape up my airbox for a reason) :p
×
×
  • Create New...