Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, just putting something out there to see if anyone has not been able to get their car off defect themselves and has ended up getting somewhere to help them like Nisswreck for example. Would really like to know how people went if they have had to use someone for help in this area. I would generally think that if a place helped you with this then you'd be through Regency basically first go, wouldn't you? Cos they should have all the bases covered yes? Your feedback would be much appreciated, cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381718-getting-off-defect/
Share on other sites

Sinergy motorsport also do defect removal. Although don't be bummed out if you dont pass first go. Personally i'd go for an inspection just to find out everything that needs repair/replacement.

I got my 32 through regency about 2 weeks ago and did all the work myself. Went to regency first to see what needed to be done and then did it all myself. Subframe bushes, centre tail shaft bearing, rear tie rods, front right tie rod ends and a fark load more done for much much cheeper than i could get anyone else to do it. then got a mechanic to look over it before i took it and got through in about 5 min. So if you are pretty mechanically minded and have decent tools, jacks, car ramps etc you can do most of whatever needs to be done yourself for much cheeper.

Vince at Import Compliance Systems can turn your car back to stock and pass it for you and then return it back.

He got my GTR through which needed lots of stock parts.

Any idea on how much that would cost?

$175 to put it through for initial inspection...i know i just did it :D

Ill be doing all the defect removal and replacements myself as i cant afford $2k from Import compliance systems and synergy just to put it back to stock (that's just to get it through and then put all my gear back on). Cheaper for me to buy all the stock parts.

Well I know I'll need a stock exhaust & then I got quoted from Sinergy to change my HID's to normal globes for 220 but that's not changing 'em back either :P Got a couple of mates willing to help spin a few spanners with me so far, guess I should get that inspection so I'll know exactly what needs to be done. Would be interesting to get Reuben to help considering I'm Reuben too, kinda been waiting to meet him, don't know too many Reuben's. I know now that I'll have to wait now anyway cos I won't be able to get it cleared before the car show this weekend which was the general idea anyway cos my car is going to be in it. Appreciate everyone's help.

Yeah, Sinergy charged me $50 to put water in my washer bottle and $80 to remove tint on my front two windows. Have it all on paper I think unless I gave it away with my car.

Can do it all yourself and save yourself heaps.

Well I know I'll need a stock exhaust & then I got quoted from Sinergy to change my HID's to normal globes for 220 but that's not changing 'em back either :P Got a couple of mates willing to help spin a few spanners with me so far, guess I should get that inspection so I'll know exactly what needs to be done. Would be interesting to get Reuben to help considering I'm Reuben too, kinda been waiting to meet him, don't know too many Reuben's. I know now that I'll have to wait now anyway cos I won't be able to get it cleared before the car show this weekend which was the general idea anyway cos my car is going to be in it. Appreciate everyone's help.

You can convert your own for a coupla hours time, and about $50 in parts - if you're handy. This way also leaves the option to convert them back easily.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...