Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...
  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I apologize about the thread jack but search brought me here.

I have a AEM series 1 in my R34 and I'm replacing it with the Haltech PP unit. I know Haltech has a lot of capabilities but how do I unlock it's features?

In other words, if it can control boost then how can I change between HIGH and LOW settings? How do I change between vehicle maps, etc?

dumb question --> Can the Haltech keep the engine running for XXX seconds/minutes after removing the key (i.e. timer mode)? Their website didn't say so but I want to make sure.

  • 6 months later...

Ok so the car is going back into the tuners monday to have a look at the tune, as the problems that I have described that werent appearing on the dyno the other day. But to overlook it being the car, I plugged my spare normal power fc I have sitting here in with the AFM and the car drove perfect today. The car will be looked at for free. Although poeple are saying to go with a different tuner and why ditch the proven setup, if im paying the cost of getting another tune elsewhere....then I want a a much newer, better ecu to be tuned.

I wont go the normal power fc with afm because is A; the cost Nismo items are 700-900 or the z32s are 600 with an 600-800 piping kit. and b; I had one of my afm's on my gtr die already and I dont wish to take that risk again for the tune or replacement afm cost.

If im spending that much money on getting AFM's with piping, then it makes more sense to buy the haltech or vipec/link for similar money, with 32x32 mapping, much more features and generally 10 years more technology than the aging power fc. I love my normal power fc, but it just seems silly spending that much money on the intake system when I could have a newer more mappable ecu for the same/less cost without afm.

I have been reccomended the haltech by my tuner and many others in my area. I will keep an update on whats happening.

So do you have your Haltech working with the E-Flex sensor now or is it simply a switch between 98 and E85 and nothing in between ?

Replaced my DJetro PFC with a Vipec plug in. Runs very smooth on and off boost. Factory case and position draws no unwanted attention. Runs 3 fuel tables for E-flex, 98ron and drum E85.

Make sure you get the air-con relay installed. And im not sure if mine is a isolated case but i was getting a dirty TPS signal from the vipec to the 4wd HICAS computer causing my 4wd to drop out.

And im not sure if mine is a isolated case but i was getting a dirty TPS signal from the vipec to the 4wd HICAS computer causing my 4wd to drop out.

I had the same issue with my Link plug in. All fixed now!

I had the same issue with my Link plug in. All fixed now!

I applied a filter to the signal but now the 4wd computer only sees about 87% Throttle position, how did you fix yours?

I applied a filter to the signal but now the 4wd computer only sees about 87% Throttle position, how did you fix yours?

Im 95% sure you have to bridge a cable. I'll find out exactly what they did and PM you.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...