Haltech E11V2 Set Up

[Room42]

So the power fc is still in the car but it is getting the boot. I bought a Haltech E11v2 plugin today. I also got a 3 bar map sensor with it.

After driving 110 k's to pick it up I got back home and plugged the sucker in. I wired up the map sensor found an appropriate vacuum line for it and also wired up the air temp sensor. I went through the various setups and after all said and done all I got was a backfire that sounded like incorrect firing order.

It came with a base map for the rb25det which I used but really that doesn't make any difference at this stage.

So for the blokes that know can you please help me with the initial setup. Do I need to change the firing order group or the firing angles group? Is the trigger type "nissan 1 2 or 3"? I'm just a bit unsure of the trigger setup and the ignition setup mostly.

I have already calibrated the tps and all the other sensors are working.

The computer and laptop are communicating properly.

There is definitely fuel and spark there.

As I have 910 cc injectors I used a range of 1 ms to 5 ms to start it to no avail. The cas is in the right spot. I've tried swapping the load signal from map to tps to afm.

The manual says something about telling the ecu what position the engine is in. It didn't make a lot of sense but that could be cos of my tiredness. My flamin cat was up playing soccer with its jingly ball last night!!

The software can be downloaded from the haltech site for free so you can see exactly what I mean.

Anyway I appreciate any help in these areas cos if there's one thing I've found there are some switched on dudes on this site.

in advance.

[The Dan]

Whatever you do, don't send it to Haltech for them to look. They'll drill a hole in it and send it back saying it is an unsupported model and then you're stuck with a unit that no longer works at all.

I will assume but shouldn't on the following:

You have an RPM signal while cranking? ( I know you probably do considering you are getting pulse and spark )

You have checked the timing with a light for firing sequence?

I'm not sure on the trigger number but I do know it is obvious when you read the description I think they give when you select it.

Can you post a screen shot of the trigger selection? I can't run Halwin on Win7

[The Mafia]

I can't help you. I've avoided these models like the plague. Seen too many of them unable to hold their settings and fail most of the time. They are a bit h to navigate and tune too.

Good luck though, hopefully someone that has th patience and knowledge of them can help you.

[Room42]

Cheers guys. As I only just got it yesterday I haven't had a lot of time to play with it. I know it will take a lot longer to get right than the power fc but I'll get there. I'll do a bunch of data logging with the power fc on the weekend so I can get the tune as close as possible.

I really think it is something to do with the firing order. I'll post screen shots after work today.

[zebra]

iirc you may need to crank the engine over with no fuel or spark so the ECu learns the CAS output (which sounds like what you were saying re: the manual)

Im fairly sure there was an option in one of the initial setup pages to do this (much like the TPS values)

But I dont have the haltech software on this PC anymore So I cant look for you

[Room42]

Cheers zebra. I'll try this afternoon.

[Room42]

Ok so I got the ecu lined up with the engine now. The ecu and the crank marks are saying 10 degrees with a timing light.

I pulled the plugs out so the engine would turn easier and I managed to blow up 2 of the coils. I needed a signal for the timing light. I put it on the white wire on number one and got nothing. I plugged in a coil and the light worked. I set up the timing between the computer and the engine. All good. I went and did some stuff and checked it again. I used a different coil for some reason. It all checked out. I noticed the coil was hot. I checked it and the top had cracked open. Same for the other one. Apparently they don't like running by themselves. So anyway here are the screen shots of the way I have set it up. I have a value of 69 in the tooth offset to get the ecu to line up with tdc.

So I have a few questions.

Should I change the constant charge time and/or the spark break time?

What about injector peak and hold voltages and also injection angle?

What value should be in the nissan home window?

Plugin my butt. The only part that is plug in is the harness. I reckon I'll give myself a week of stuffing around after work and if I cant get it driving and a decent fuel map by then I'll spit the dummy and take it to someone that knows what they are doing. Which is very rare for me.

Once again its past my bedtime so.........snore......

[rob82]

Change your ignition spark edge to falling. STD coil setup is for the spark event to occur on the falling edge of the trigger with the dwell time being the duration of the trigger time spent at 5v.. This is probably why you have roasted your coils! It would hav been charging the coil at like 98% duty instead of 2%.

I laugh every time I here about haltech's being plugin. As others have said I avoid them like the plauge!

Edited November 3, 2011 by rob82

[Room42]

Cheers for that Rob. You just saved me another coil or 2.

[Room42]

Ok so it is plugin as they get. With the base maps is every other setting to make it run. If I had read the instructions then I would have got it started straight away and saved myself a couple of rooted coils. But eh what can you do. I'm a bloke. I don't need instructions.

I got it going this afternoon and went for a short drive. The missus is a fairly capable tuner now and she sorted out the low load fuel. There is still a stack of tuning work to be done to get it perfect but it is definitely drivable.

I've heard some people here bagging this model of computer. In mine and my wifes opinion this computer is a lot easier to tune in spite of the larger maps and more features then the power fc. If the haltech should be avoided like the plague then burn your power fc's now. But hey each to their own.

I forgot to do up an intercooler pipe and it was a very pleasant change not to have the car shoot a 5 foot flame out the back and die out the arse in traffic.

I'll have a tuning day tomorrow and should have most of the fuel map done. And just as I had the power fc almost perfect...

[The Dan]

Ok so it is plugin as they get. With the base maps is every other setting to make it run. If I had read the instructions then I would have got it started straight away and saved myself a couple of rooted coils. But eh what can you do. I'm a bloke. I don't need instructions.

I got it going this afternoon and went for a short drive. The missus is a fairly capable tuner now and she sorted out the low load fuel. There is still a stack of tuning work to be done to get it perfect but it is definitely drivable.

I've heard some people here bagging this model of computer. In mine and my wifes opinion this computer is a lot easier to tune in spite of the larger maps and more features then the power fc. If the haltech should be avoided like the plague then burn your power fc's now. But hey each to their own.

I forgot to do up an intercooler pipe and it was a very pleasant change not to have the car shoot a 5 foot flame out the back and die out the arse in traffic.

I'll have a tuning day tomorrow and should have most of the fuel map done. And just as I had the power fc almost perfect...

It has nothing to do with the ease of tuning. They are really easy to tune. It has to do with losing map data, losing connection mid tune when you are doing power runs and then there's the whole transient throttle miss that you will not be able to get rid of. I'll save you some time and tell you that it's due to coil charge time. Coil charge time will drop from about 3ms to 0.2ms when you go from 2% throttle to 100% or even 50% throttle. You'll keep adding fuel into the throttle pump settings in the hope to 'mask' it, and you may, but it will still miss every time. Haltech refuse to fix it as it is now an 'unsupported model'

There is also another one we had that did a 200% enrichment just randomly and needed to be fixed in the map - yes you read correctly - it changed its own settings. Then it shat a map sensor a week later.

[The Mafia]

Don't forget they can dump their tune in the shitter at random times. What if your 200s from how without a laptop?

My Powerfc never did this.

Just be careful dude. Seen so many of these particular ECUs fail. And not a single PFC.

[The Mafia]

Stupid iPhone post..

[STATUS]

It has nothing to do with the ease of tuning. They are really easy to tune. It has to do with losing map data, losing connection mid tune when you are doing power runs and then there's the whole transient throttle miss that you will not be able to get rid of. I'll save you some time and tell you that it's due to coil charge time. Coil charge time will drop from about 3ms to 0.2ms when you go from 2% throttle to 100% or even 50% throttle. You'll keep adding fuel into the throttle pump settings in the hope to 'mask' it, and you may, but it will still miss every time. Haltech refuse to fix it as it is now an 'unsupported model'

There is also another one we had that did a 200% enrichment just randomly and needed to be fixed in the map - yes you read correctly - it changed its own settings. Then it shat a map sensor a week later.

haha sounds like a wolf mine used to forget it was a rotor.... every 3 or so starts you would need to reset the trigger settings... just one of the myriad of issues we had with them.

[zebra]

My rotor used to forget it was a rotor....never broke lol

[The Dan]

haha sounds like a wolf mine used to forget it was a rotor.... every 3 or so starts you would need to reset the trigger settings... just one of the myriad of issues we had with them.

Never seen that problem in dozens of units we have used. Maybe it was a once off? I'm sure when you called Robbie it would have all been sorted out and the problem found though. The support is seriously second to none.

The problem with Haltech is they won't help anyone and when you have a genuine problem and even show them all the scope patterns to prove it, they just palm you off.

At least their Platinum range has been upgraded to 2008 technology.

My rotor used to forget it was a rotor....never broke lol

LMAO, gold!

[Guilt-Toy]

I have no input for this thread. walks away.

[rob82]

Never seen that problem in dozens of units we have used. Maybe it was a once off? I'm sure when you called Robbie it would have all been sorted out and the problem found though. The support is seriously second to none.

The problem with Haltech is they won't help anyone and when you have a genuine problem and even show them all the scope patterns to prove it, they just palm you off.

At least their Platinum range has been upgraded to 2008 technology.

LMAO, gold!

Well I'm glad you've had the same problems with Haltech too. For years we were telling them about there issues with triggering, accell enrichment etc etc - all fell on deaf ears. Very frustrating because as a tuner when you tell a customer I cant fix an issue they immediatly presume you dont know how to tune. I love the fact that they say they support idle motor control and boost control and a heap of other functions when they cant even make an ECM that delivers consistant fuel and timing.

I personally will never recommend haltech and try as hard as I can not to tune them.

[Guilt-Toy]

I am going to backpedal my last comment.

How the hell can you get away with writing shit like that on public forum about a ECU like Haltech?

Their old 90's tech ecu's might have been crap, sure but they worked and performed well with the competition at the time.

How is it haltech's fault that you are too cheap to buy a up to date ecu to run your late model engines? then go and ask them for help with something they probably know has issues and cannot and will not fix because there is a whole new range of ecu's available designed to fix the previous issues?

The new haltech's are great, sure I am biased towards the Vipec and will use one before a Haltech any day of the week but when i do use the haltechs they do the job very well.

Give the guys a break, there are plenty of worse ecu's out there if your going to give them slack at least make it about something worth while with their latest products at least then they will make a effort to fix it ??

sorry for the rant but Haltech have come a real long way, Just like when the Vipec / G4 came to Link... Every company moves forwards to bigger and better things.

[STATUS]

I am going to backpedal my last comment.

How the hell can you get away with writing shit like that on public forum about a ECU like Haltech?

Their old 90's tech ecu's might have been crap, sure but they worked and performed well with the competition at the time.

How is it haltech's fault that you are too cheap to buy a up to date ecu to run your late model engines? then go and ask them for help with something they probably know has issues and cannot and will not fix because there is a whole new range of ecu's available designed to fix the previous issues?

The new haltech's are great, sure I am biased towards the Vipec and will use one before a Haltech any day of the week but when i do use the haltechs they do the job very well.

Give the guys a break, there are plenty of worse ecu's out there if your going to give them slack at least make it about something worth while with their latest products at least then they will make a effort to fix it ??

sorry for the rant but Haltech have come a real long way, Just like when the Vipec / G4 came to Link... Every company moves forwards to bigger and better things.

well said, i am one of the lucky few who do not and will never align (or sell them for that matter) with a single brand of ecu, numerous companies have approached us to become dealers but its something i dont believe in. Soon as you align yourself to an ecu you are obligated to it.... so many customers come in with ecu's that they should never have been sold in the first place (mainly to keep sales up at the workshop that did the work just to stay dealers or keep their pricing sharp).

Being 100% unbiased towards any ecu makes it easy to chose the right ecu for the job and the budget without the need to make any compromises.

That said the new range of Haltechs have given us no issues what so ever on a myriad of engines, my first preference for the bigger stuff is definitely the LINK G4 (or vipec badge version) but more often for 80% a simple PFC or remap will will be more than enough.

Not sure why Haltech has copped so much abuse, we do a few a week and certainly don't see an inherent issue.

The only Haltech that i would have to pick shit at would be the plug and play 350Z platinum as the idle control is still factory controlled and with big cams and turbos its hell tricky to get right.