Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

at the end of the day I would keep the power FC in the car before changing to the ecu you have got. flog it off to someone else and move on.

save up for something more worth while, look into one of those haltech sprint 500 wire in ecu's which are going cheap and work great, I have put them through their paces and they perform great in wasted and group fire on 6 cyl engines running 600 700+ hp.

How the hell can you get away with writing shit like that on public forum about a ECU like Haltech?

Their old 90's tech ecu's might have been crap, sure but they worked and performed well with the competition at the time.

How is it haltech's fault that you are too cheap to buy a up to date ecu to run your late model engines? then go and ask them for help with something they probably know has issues and cannot and will not fix because there is a whole new range of ecu's available designed to fix the previous issues?

The new haltech's are great, sure I am biased towards the Vipec and will use one before a Haltech any day of the week but when i do use the haltechs they do the job very well.

Give the guys a break, there are plenty of worse ecu's out there if your going to give them slack at least make it about something worth while with their latest products at least then they will make a effort to fix it ??

sorry for the rant but Haltech have come a real long way, Just like when the Vipec / G4 came to Link... Every company moves forwards to bigger and better things.

How the hell can you get away with writing shit like that on public forum about a ECU like Haltech?

Everything I have written is fact. From direct experience with multiple units. This is not a once off problem we have had to deal with

Their old 90's tech ecu's might have been crap, sure but they worked and performed well with the competition at the time.

Yes this may be the case but like EVERY ecu, they can and do have issues. It's the fact that Haltech choose to ignore them and the customers that have purchased their units that drives these types of conversations

How is it haltech's fault that you are too cheap to buy a up to date ecu to run your late model engines? then go and ask them for help with something they probably know has issues and cannot and will not fix because there is a whole new range of ecu's available designed to fix the previous issues?

We bought the ECU and 6 months later they released the platinum range. When we told them of the issue and all the other issues they had they told us they no longer supported that model and to buy a platinum

The new haltech's are great, sure I am biased towards the Vipec and will use one before a Haltech any day of the week but when i do use the haltechs they do the job very well.

Give the guys a break, there are plenty of worse ecu's out there if your going to give them slack at least make it about something worth while with their latest products at least then they will make a effort to fix it ??

sorry for the rant but Haltech have come a real long way, Just like when the Vipec / G4 came to Link... Every company moves forwards to bigger and better things.

Yes you are right, I should give them a break. Their new units are apparently much better, they have fixed all of the issues we know of that existed in their old units. I hope they move forward as well as every other manufacturer out there because at the end of the day they are all striving to give us better technology. BUT, if they continue to palm off their customers when support is called for instead of telling them 'speak to a dealer' (when the dealers know stuff all about them as well) and when proof of a problem is provided, just tell people 'sorry, we no longer support that model' (which was being sold as the current model only 1-2 months prior), then they will continue to get a bad rap.

So I will be giving them a break......so they can think about how they are going to send me another ECU due to the fact they destroyed a working unit on us and handed it back. My answer will be: 'Express post will be just fine :)'

  • 3 weeks later...

Ok blokes a quick update. I have got the thing tuned pretty well. I haven't put a huge amount of time into it but for the 4 or so hours that I have tuned on the road I am pretty happy. It is trickier to tune by far than a power fc but it does work. It is just a lot more complicated and has to be set up right in all areas.

In my opinion the power fc is so good due to how easy it is to use and the fact that it works well in the correct applications.

I got it to control the idle after a bunch of reading and adjusting. I tried out the anti lag the other day. Apart from scaring the crap out of the cats and the missus it seemed to do its thing. I got 14 psi at 3000rpm and 24psi at 4000rpm. Roto idle works.

I haven't even looked at the accel enrichment yet. It isn't a huge issue at the moment but I will take a look at it eventually.

The car really hauls arse. It is somewhat difficult to tune wot on the road due to speed, wheel spin and noise. I still need to get it on the dyno to neaten up the high rpm/high load stuff but all in all it is sorted.

After selling the power fc, datalogit and z32 afm this ecu only cost me $200. A worthwhile upgrade at the time. I might try out a different ecu down the track if I do run into the issues that others have had. So far all is good.

thumbsup.gif

  • 2 years later...

Back from the dead.

Can anyone help with the trigger and ignition setup for a RB25?

Just want to make sure I'm in the ballpark.

Mainly need help with the tooth offset and the Nissan home window settings

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The trouble with phone apps is that they really do not know the sensitivity of the mic on each specific phone, whether there is some sort of cover or skin that can change that, etc etc. So the readings off them are not calibrated. You certainly couldn't be sure that you were even within 3 dB. I have the same app on two (actually more than that) different phones/tablets and the readings in the same room at the same time are never the same. I don't mind the apps - they are as useful as a dyno - if you're testing for delta from thing1 to thing2. But not to try to generate some sort of absolute value.
    • I'm gonna use the "Sound Meter" app from the Google Play Store and as close as I can bother to these procedures: 4. TEST METHOD FOR ALL VEHICLES EXCEPT PRE ADR83 IN-SERVICE GOODS VEHICLES AND OMNIBUSES 4.1 Microphone position 4.1.1 The microphone shall be directed towards the orifice of the exhaust outlet and shall be supported by a tripod or similar device not providing excessive acoustic reflection. The general requirements for positioning microphones are shown in the Appendix. 4.1.2 The nominal axis of maximum sensitivity of the microphone shall be substantially parallel to the test site surface and shall make an angle of 45 degrees ±10 degrees with the principal direction of gas flow from the exhaust. 4.1.3 In selecting the 45 degree alignment from the outlet of a motor vehicle fitted with two or more outlets, only the angle resulting in the microphone being farthest from any other outlet must be used. National Stationary Exhaust Noise Test Procedures for In-Service Motor Vehicles Page 3 4.1.4 The height of the microphone above the test site surface shall be equal to that of the orifice of the exhaust outlet ±25mm but shall not be less than 200mm above the test site surface. 4.1.5 The distance of the microphone from the exhaust outlet orifice shall be 500mm±25mm. 4.1.6 [Relates to vertical exhaust outlets] 4.1.7 For vehicles fitted with one exhaust outlet the microphone shall be placed so that the greatest possible distance is achieved between it and the vehicle. 4.1.8 [Relates to multi exhaust outlets] 4.1.9 [Relates to multi exhaust outlets] TLDR: 200mm off ground 45 degree angle relative to exhaust flow 500mm from tailpipe exit. (I probably won't use a tripod) Here's a photo, cause I read the instructions wrong myself.
    • No ABS, no TCS, no airbags, no cruise control, no lane departure assist, no emergency brake assist, no orange lights in the mirrors (continuously annoying me in multi-lane traffic), no stupid rear view camera. I am the one responsible for where my car goes and how it does it.
    • Cheapest Jaycar one is only $65.
    • Probably best way would be using a proper dB / SPL meter lol Buy one and ship it from state to state to have a consistent test device lololol  
×
×
  • Create New...