Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It's written in Jap so a bit hard to translate.

What info do you need to know as I used to have one in mine?

Cheers

Ken

Hi Ken;

To answer your question; everything really. Connections woud be a great start, but anything else you could advise on would be a great help also and very welcome.

You wrote that you did have one. Could I ask please why you don't have it any more ie Were you unhappy with it or was it a matter of parting with the car?

Regards,

Mark

It went with the car.

Connections plug in between the ATTESSA computer under the rear parcel shelf ( on a 32GTR ) and the harness. The plugs are foolprooof and have male/female style connections which go into the computer and the car wiring harness.

The harness goes into the car up near the console ( or where ever you want the control box ) and the box plugs into it.

There will be a spare plug which is for the optional drag adapter.

That's it, once the car starts you can turn it to on and wind the knobs and watch the front torque gauge move.

Coarse setting steps it up in increments of about 10 on the gauge and the fine is in increments of 1 or 2 ( can't remember, it's been a while )

With it on the car is impossible to push by hand around a corner and the car will feel like it's " binding ". This is because the 4 wd is permanantly on.

The auto setting will disengage the torque controller below 15kmh and above that it will go to a preset level ( which I think is about 25 on the gauge ).

If you try to wind the coarse setting up too quickly , it may bring the 4 wd light on. I think this is because the pump is having a little hernia!

If it happens just turn the controller back down, switch the car off and retry again but slower.

I have a rough english translation of the book here somewhere but of the 3-4 pages , most is just the usual Jap warning stuff and the essential info is only minimal.

They are a good thing but be warned that prolonged constant use will wear the transfer case clutch packs out prematurely.

Cheers

Ken

It went with the car.

Connections plug in between the ATTESSA computer under the rear parcel shelf ( on a 32GTR ) and the harness. The plugs are foolprooof and have male/female style connections which go into the computer and the car wiring harness.

The harness goes into the car up near the console ( or where ever you want the control box ) and the box plugs into it.

There will be a spare plug which is for the optional drag adapter.

That's it, once the car starts you can turn it to on and wind the knobs and watch the front torque gauge move.

Coarse setting steps it up in increments of about 10 on the gauge and the fine is in increments of 1 or 2 ( can't remember, it's been a while )

With it on the car is impossible to push by hand around a corner and the car will feel like it's " binding ". This is because the 4 wd is permanantly on.

The auto setting will disengage the torque controller below 15kmh and above that it will go to a preset level ( which I think is about 25 on the gauge ).

If you try to wind the coarse setting up too quickly , it may bring the 4 wd light on. I think this is because the pump is having a little hernia!

If it happens just turn the controller back down, switch the car off and retry again but slower.

I have a rough english translation of the book here somewhere but of the 3-4 pages , most is just the usual Jap warning stuff and the essential info is only minimal.

They are a good thing but be warned that prolonged constant use will wear the transfer case clutch packs out prematurely.

Cheers

Ken

Hi Ken;

Thanks indeed for this. Did you find out about clutch pack wear from experience?

It went with the car.

Connections plug in between the ATTESSA computer under the rear parcel shelf ( on a 32GTR ) and the harness. The plugs are foolprooof and have male/female style connections which go into the computer and the car wiring harness.

The harness goes into the car up near the console ( or where ever you want the control box ) and the box plugs into it.

There will be a spare plug which is for the optional drag adapter.

That's it, once the car starts you can turn it to on and wind the knobs and watch the front torque gauge move.

Coarse setting steps it up in increments of about 10 on the gauge and the fine is in increments of 1 or 2 ( can't remember, it's been a while )

With it on the car is impossible to push by hand around a corner and the car will feel like it's " binding ". This is because the 4 wd is permanantly on.

The auto setting will disengage the torque controller below 15kmh and above that it will go to a preset level ( which I think is about 25 on the gauge ).

If you try to wind the coarse setting up too quickly , it may bring the 4 wd light on. I think this is because the pump is having a little hernia!

If it happens just turn the controller back down, switch the car off and retry again but slower.

I have a rough english translation of the book here somewhere but of the 3-4 pages , most is just the usual Jap warning stuff and the essential info is only minimal.

They are a good thing but be warned that prolonged constant use will wear the transfer case clutch packs out prematurely.

Cheers

Ken

Hi Ken;

Thanks indeed for this. Did you find out about clutch pack wear from experience?

You wrote that 4wd is permanently 'on'. I thought that it worked by channelling more torque to the front, sooner. As opposed to having the 4wd permanently activated?

Regards,

Mark

  • 8 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I haven’t taken them out of the cases yet    inside the box is this packaging which is pretty much like a massive blister pack 
    • Purchased a NC MX5 a while ago Basic suspension mods done, BC coils and Whiteline sway bars  New DBA calipers, discs and pads Added some 17 x 8 Konig Decagrams with 215/45 17 PS5's Added some typical NA bolt on's, i.e. full exhaust and intake  Added 0.5ltrs with a MZR2.5 swap, nice bump in torques  Found a detachable hard top which is locked in for a colour match with my local paint shop in Feb 25, this also includes some PDR as it has received a few love taps from parking in the local shops when in the hands of my Minister for War and Finances, me, I park nowhere near other cars and typically park on the street The little thing is awesome, I drive it everywhere, it handles like a dream whether I'm up it or just cruising  But now,  because I'm a idiot, I keep looking at turbo kits....... did I mention I'm a idiot Why is dose so appealing  All of the NA 2.5 glory, well.......until sometime in 2025 anyway....🤪  
    • I would not be surprised if you are the only person on earth that has the interest/desire to do that lol.  The Haltech base map is a really good starting point, the car will fire easily and drive very well, even on mild boost levels. To me, following your advice sounds like some sort of ancient Chinese water torcher lol (this is not an insult Josh, never change <3)
    • Those car show concepts from the 2000's and 2010's like the Floria and IDx were brilliant and should've gone ahead, at least one of them. But neither Honda nor Nissan are thinking about affordable performance any more, which is truly sad.  Even if Toyota's liquid hydrogen ICE development reaches the point where it's commercially viable and the infrastructure to support it, Honda/Nissan would have to wait until Toyota allow fee access to their patents to offer it with any smaller performance models they released to take advantage of it.  
    • A sporty manual RWD coupe with a IL4 Honda engine would only be a good thing I assume we won't see anything released for a few years though, unless informal talks and designs have been going on for a few years,  and due to the current, and future, emmisions and safety requirements, I assume anything "sporty" they would do would be at least some hybrid thingie And hopefully anything they are thinking of has nice lines, without lots of plastic and fake bits hanging off it like that horrendous FK8 that looked like it was designed by a 13 year old The other issue of course in the current market is cost, currently the type R is around $70k, a twin is around $50k Meh, I'm old and grumpy and would rather buy a older model car and waste my coin on that than buying anything currently available new  
×
×
  • Create New...