Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so here's what happened...

this morning i went out to woolworths to get my groceries. all was well. came back, parked, no problems. this afternoon i go out get in my car and it wont start.

-i turn the key the dash lights up

-there is enough power for locks to work

-stereo works

-but when i turn the key there is just one click.

so i thought battery, figured i had left something on accidentally, but couldnt find anything. look at the battery, its an old one. so i figure i'll grab a new one. Another car boosts me, my car fires up no issues. but my battery light is now flickering. but i drove to battery world and got a new battery. dropped in in right in the parking lot, and nothing, car wont start, doesnt even crank, just that one solid click. another car boosted me again, she fired up no problem.

the whole drive home battery light on dash was flickering. I am assuming that this is an alternator issue? anybody have any other ideas. i tried to be as detailed as possible.

alternator fits because of the battery light, but i am worried about the fact that it wont start up even with a new battery. the alternator should just charge the battery once running, but the battery should be able to at least crank it a couple times, but all i get is a click.

any insight would be much appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381890-r33-no-start-alternator/
Share on other sites

Have u checked the main harness like earth on the block ...and power wire that goes to the alternator ?

Also check main fuses in engine bay !

Does sound odd it won't start with a new battery

Does sound a bit odd, when my alternator died a new battery would start the car so I would check other places like in this quote

you need to get a multimeter and do some checks.

Firstly, put the probes across the battery and set multimeter to DC voltage and do the following:

when the car is stationary (key off), should be about 12.4V (good condition, charged battery)

Key to Cranking (wether the car cranks or just makes the click) and record the voltage

If you can get the car running, record the voltage while the car is running

Do this and then post up your results

i am ready to begin tomorrow mornnig...

that is my plan, i have a multi-meter... test light, and a handful of the cheapest tools money can buy (courtesy of supercheap auto).

i have 2 batteries, 1 new one and one old one. after throwing in the new one and getting the same problem i am betting that both batteries are good. more likely than both being bad.

so i'll check battery with car off, check battery with key on. i'll use the spare battery to boost the car. and i'll check voltage again. if its still reading 12ish, and hasnt jumped to 13-14 i'll know that its not charging and is running off battery.

that would point to something to do with alternator, but as i sit here running things through my head i just cant seem to fathom why a alternator short would stop my car from starting with key... and why only boost will start.

its definitely not a starter.. she fires up instantly with power from jump start

i was thinking maybe a loose wire under the dash, bad signal from ignition, but that wouldnt explain the alternator light. but the alternator doesnt explain my no start.

i'm just in a locked carpark, and the lighting is really shitty this time of night, or else i'd go and dive in now. instead i just wont sleep...

also, even if it was just a bad alternator... i drove the car this morning. no battery light, tried to drive this afternoon and wouldnt start after trying two batteries. if it was an alternator, the car would have started, initial battery should have had more than enough juice to start the car, and drive around for a while. this all seems to point to an electrical short somewhere. i hate electrical problems... i'd much rather be drilling out a broken bolt... at least then i know the problem and how its going to be fixed.

where are you connecting the jumper cables? bad terminal on battery and your clips are helping squash on?

if alternator doesnt get a good connection to the battery it will overcharge which will prob bring on the warning light but im not 100% if that applies to skyline alternators

only thing i can think of atm that explains both your sypmtoms :thumbsup:

Edited by t_revz

well, i went out this morning.

both batteries are good. new one in the car read 12.5, old one out of the car read 12.3.

test light told me there was power getting to the alternator. i then used hte old battery to jump the car. and the battery in hte car now read 12.4. so the charging system isn't working.

i also checked all my fuses hoping for a long shot but all the damn things were good.

if your in brisbane pm mate, im a mobile auto sparkie, can help ya out

thanks for the offer, but i'm about 1.5 hours south of you. i think that puts me a little out of your range.

where are you connecting the jumper cables? bad terminal on battery and your clips are helping squash on?

if alternator doesnt get a good connection to the battery it will overcharge which will prob bring on the warning light but im not 100% if that applies to skyline alternators

only thing i can think of atm that explains both your sypmtoms :thumbsup:

well, battery is in the boot, when i jump it i hook up to the positive post under bonnet, and a bolt from the strut for earth. and the terminals are all good and tight, just dropped in a new battery last night thinking it was just a battery problem. oh well.

can anyone else throw some ideas at me?

well, battery is in the boot, when i jump it i hook up to the positive post under bonnet, and a bolt from the strut for earth. and the terminals are all good and tight, just dropped in a new battery last night thinking it was just a battery problem. oh well.

can anyone else throw some ideas at me?

Positive post under bonnet? Or on the battery in the boot?

Sounds like one of your leads is dodgy (probably earth). With the battery in the boot you need good quality cables all the way from the battery to the engine bay.

Unbolt the earth lead from the battery and wherever it attaches to earth. Clean the terminals at both ends (remove dirt, rust etc) on the cable and where it attaches to earth, and refit. Tighten properly. do the same for any earth straps in the engine bay. This should fix the problem.

Positive post under bonnet? Or on the battery in the boot?

Sounds like one of your leads is dodgy (probably earth). With the battery in the boot you need good quality cables all the way from the battery to the engine bay.

Unbolt the earth lead from the battery and wherever it attaches to earth. Clean the terminals at both ends (remove dirt, rust etc) on the cable and where it attaches to earth, and refit. Tighten properly. do the same for any earth straps in the engine bay. This should fix the problem.

yea. i've been looking at everything, but everywhere i hit with a test light seems to light up no problem. i've been checking my earths by hooking up to power and then tapping earths and its lighting up. this is quite puzzling.

i'll check out labrador auto

Testing with a 5W bulb in a test light won't tell you what's happening when you're trying to ram several hundred amps of cranking current through the starting curcuit. You need to unbolt the terminals of the earth lead and physically check / clean them. I've seen this problem before with poor earths. They run low current fine, but increase the current and they play up. The fact that it starts properly when you're using a different earth (and possibly positive terminal) hints that your problem lies with poor contact.

Perform all the tests i said. checking just the battery voltage will tell you next to nothing apart from if the battery has dropped a cell or more

Crank and check voltage (get another person to check it) and tell us what you get

A stuffed alternater will not stop the car from starting on a fresh battery

Has your stater been out recently?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Also had a look at the Nissan JP website looks like the 400r has a slightly shorter ratio than than the regular V37 3.133 VS 2.937 which from a guy who has driven both 3.69 vs 4.11 ratios in the S15 is bugger all. Seems that the AUTO Z runs the same ratio as the 400R but can't find any info as to if its an open or LSD? More often than not the auto LSD is open
    • Do not replace the power steering lines with this stuff. If it's anything like the Chase Bays stuff it will leak and be worse than stock. The reason why the reservoir is on the LH/passenger side of the car is because that's just where the reservoir was most convenient to fit. Don't overthink this stuff. The intake/cold side of the engine is pretty busy on these cars. And again, the hardpipe is designed to be a janky power steering cooler. In theory you can replace it with a real power steering cooler but that's really only for track use where boiling the fluid is a distinct possibility. Start with the low pressure lines feeding the pump from the reservoir. Make sure there isn't a bunch of junk in the reservoir filter. Be careful to not get ATF all over the engine bay. I hate dealing with ATF spills, you can clean it up and the slightest crevice will still release more oil that can still drip over time. You also want to inspect for leaks before you make a mess and can't tell what happened. Most likely you have a leak somewhere that is allowing fluid out and air in. Failing that it's allowing air in but not fluid out. Only place I can really see that happening is on the low pressure side because the pump will pull a slight vacuum to draw fluid in. Everything after the pump is high pressure or lower pressure, approaching atmospheric by the time it returns to the reservoir.
    • I did a skidpan night at SMSP this week, it was much cheaper than $350. But yeah, you need to slap an LSD in that thing.  I put an OS Giken in the 370Z and it's f**king MARVELOUS even compared to Nissan's viscous LSD. So you're saying it's free now that it's a housing estate? 😂
    • Nah, the car seems to run exactly as it did prior, in saying this it does "seem" to be better down low, like more eager to rev, but that may be 100% placebo effect from intake noise But, I'm not worried about it at all, in the end it is a fairly low compression NA engine that has a well shrouded intake,  if it is getting hotter IAT I cannot notice anything negative performance wise from the seat of my pants thrashing it about on the street or sitting in traffic, so meh, car now now makes induction noise so I'm happy
    • Do you have an IAT sensor? It's worth checking it to see. You may be suprised how little gap you actually need to flood your engine with hot air. (I tape up my airbox for a reason) :p
×
×
  • Create New...