Gtr R32 - Fitting Gtr R33 Brembos And Dba Slotted Rotors

[Sinista32]

Hi crew,

As per topic I have my R32 GTR booked in tomorrow to have R33 GTR Brembo's fitted with new larger slotted Dba rotors as a minor brake upgrade.

I have fully forgotten about the rotor gaurd.

The new rotors are RDA to suit the 33 Brembo calipers and are obviously larger.

What should and/or can i do about the Rotor gaurds as they wont fit over the larger rotors

1. Wait and get some to fit

2. Flatten out to fit or

3. Remove entirely.

4. are the DBA 4000 series any good or should i be looking for something else ?

Those in the know your help will be appreciated.

Thanks in advance

[Sinista32]

Anyone ?

[Daleo]

Just trim the lip off the dust shield; all will be well

Do the Brembo's use 12mm or 14mm mounting bolts?

Edited November 2, 2011 by Daleo

[djr81]

From memory the stone guards (Which is what they are) are a press fit onto the hub? Not sure you can just replace them. Most people cut them - either just a trim as necessary depending on which end of the car you are talking about or remove them completely.

As far as bolts are concerned. R33 Brembos use 12mm, 34's 14mm. The thread pitch is different 1.5mm for Brembo as opposed to 1.25 for the Sumitomo calliper.

[(OO)SKYLINE(OO)]

As per topic I have my R32 GTR booked in tomorrow to have R33 GTR Brembo's fitted with new larger slotted Dba rotors as a minor brake upgrade.

I have fully forgotten about the rotor gaurd.

The new rotors are RDA to suit the 33 Brembo calipers and are obviously larger.

I just got the same set up completed yesterday from my mechanic.

What should and/or can i do about the Rotor gaurds as they wont fit over the larger rotors

3. Remove entirely.

This is what we did.

4. are the DBA 4000 series any good or should i be looking for something else ?

Those in the know your help will be appreciated.

Thanks in advance

If it is just for street / spirited runs / 1 or 2 track days, you will be fine.

If you are thinking of track racing, I'd go a full Project MU / Endless / AP Racing etc. Set up.

[djr81]

If it is just for street / spirited runs / 1 or 2 track days, you will be fine.

If you are thinking of track racing, I'd go a full Project MU / Endless / AP Racing etc. Set up.

For me - I have a grudge aagainst 4000 series DBA rotors based on them cracking. If it is just for street why buy them - get something cheaper. If it is going to be used ont he track get something better. Dont try & get half pregnant.

[(OO)SKYLINE(OO)]

For me - I have a grudge aagainst 4000 series DBA rotors based on them cracking. If it is just for street why buy them - get something cheaper. If it is going to be used ont he track get something better. Dont try & get half pregnant.

I was having 2nd thoughts on DBA 4000's but I asked a few people who are running them (6 x 6 Wiper - Slotted, not Cross Drilled) and they have held up fine.

It's not to my knowledge nor the people I know who run them, have had any issues.

I got answers / results based on their experience running them, hence I went with DBA 4000.

[djr81]

I was having 2nd thoughts on DBA 4000's but I asked a few people who are running them (6 x 6 Wiper - Slotted, not Cross Drilled) and they have held up fine.

It's not to my knowledge nor the people I know who run them, have had any issues.

I got answers / results based on their experience running them, hence I went with DBA 4000.

My experience of DBA 4000s is based on having owned two sets of them. They were slotted, not cross drilled. Both sets cracked. Fronts, rears didnt matter. It was not like only one out of four rotors cracked.

I changed to Project Mu rotors and haven't had a problem since.

It probably depends on what they are used for and how hard they get used. Also they may have improved in the last few years. But I cant see why I should recommend them to anyone nor reward DBA with any further custom.

Edited November 3, 2011 by djr81

[(OO)SKYLINE(OO)]

My experience of DBA 4000s is based on having owned two sets of them. They were slotted, not cross drilled. Both sets cracked. Fronts, rears didnt matter. It was not like only one out of four rotors cracked.

I changed to Project Mu rotors and haven't had a problem since.

It probably depends on what they are used for and how hard they get used. Also they may have improved in the last few years. But I cant see why I should recommend them to anyone nor reward DBA with any further custom.

All good, personal preference, I guess.

I assumed they would have improved them over the years.

I have Project MU B-Spec pads in at the moment.

I would like to give Project MU a try for my next set of rotors.

Which Project MU rotor series did you go for? 1 or 2 piece?

[djr81]

All good, personal preference, I guess.

I assumed they would have improved them over the years.

I have Project MU B-Spec pads in at the moment.

I would like to give Project MU a try for my next set of rotors.

Which Project MU rotor series did you go for? 1 or 2 piece?

Both. They only do one piece rears. I have two piece fronts.

[(OO)SKYLINE(OO)]

Both. They only do one piece rears. I have two piece fronts.

Cool!

These look good for a next replacement: Project MU SCR Street Sport Series.

[R31Nismoid]

Just get RDA for a street car, have them on my HR31. Cheaper than DBA and certainly don't have cracking issues.

Strict street only use mine have seen though, no track. No point going $$$ as djr81 said if there is no need

[Sinista32]

Thanks heaps for all your help.

I'll have the stone gaurds trimmed. As it's mostly street with a few sprint/track days The DBA 6x6 wiper slotted and I am led to beleive by the brake place they have addressed the cracking issue in these. I don't beleive evrything I hear but was convinced to give it a go.

As for pads bendix street/track?

Again thanks for your experiences.

PS. I think you need to take the wheel hub off to get the stone gaurd completely removed.

[Roy]

If you are going to run DBA 4000s then they do last a lot better if you do at least 5-7,000kms of street driving getting plenty of heat cycles into them. If you throw them on and do track work in the first 1,000kms they will last less then 30 laps before cracking. I am with DJ...they are ok on street but almost as consumable as pads if you are tracking them

[Sinista32]

So all done today.

Front stone gaurds straightend out, rears fit with less gap.

I'm now running the Brembo Calipers. I had them fully serviced by PBR prior to putting them on.

DBA Rotors T3 = 6 x 6 wiper slotted. (Newer design/model)

Bendix SRT pads ($291 a set !!) nxt time I'll go Project Mu.

HEL metal braided lines and good quality brake fluid.

Cost a damn fortune today -

Feels doughy on day 1.

Need to pump em up at the moment or they go halfway down prior to any feeling in the foot.

IS THIS NORMAL ?

I'm taking my GTR back on monday to have them re_bled.

I'll take your advice on putting through heat cycles before tracking next year.

[cobrAA]

can ytou please tell me where you got the newer design? I suspect the newer design to be an improvement over the cracking issue and nobody in North America seems to be able to supply me a set!

Thanks

[Jim K]

R33 brembo bolt pitch is 1.75, not 1.5 as mentioned earlier.

[MrStabby]

Feels doughy on day 1.

Need to pump em up at the moment or they go halfway down prior to any feeling in the foot.

IS THIS NORMAL ?

I'm taking my GTR back on monday to have them re_bled.

Not normal. Bleeding should fix it. The correct bleed order is;

Left rear brake

Right rear brake

Left front brake

Right front brake

Front side ABS (nipple closer to the front of the car)

Rear side ABS (nipple closer to firewall)

EDIT: Will also feel better when the pad have bedded in.

[Sinista32]

Thanks - bleed order worked a treat when they put the rear calipers on the right sides. Bleed valve facing up instead of down

[luke gtr]

Not normal. Bleeding should fix it. The correct bleed order is;

Left rear brake

Right rear brake

Left front brake

Right front brake

Front side ABS (nipple closer to the front of the car)

Rear side ABS (nipple closer to firewall)

EDIT: Will also feel better when the pad have bedded in.

when i have done my brakes, they were spongy.

tried bleeding to the steps in nissans manual.

felt the same.

tried bleeding another 3 times.

felt the same.

took it for a drive, and stopped just ok.

next day, brakes felt firm, havnt had the problem, until next time i touched the pads.

same thing, turned the car of for an hour, and it came up ok.

WTF???

anyway, personal experience i supose.

o/p, hope youre enjoying the new brakes.