Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Wow ggs - I rang Steve Jarvin Nissan myself and they confirmed exactly what Revolution said. 198+gst

Thanks Scotty but I might stick with a new one. If original lasted 9 years - no point gambling on another similar age. I was already paranoid of the 2nd hand buckle that I replugged the wiring of the original(broken clip) & reset, as well as pulling out the seat and checking all the plugs.

I really think this issue is related to our bad roads- really bumpy, and maybe thats just worked the tension free a bit in my case through some high speed stuff that or a faulty one or both :)

Wow ggs - I rang Steve Jarvin Nissan myself and they confirmed exactly what Revolution said. 198+gst

Thanks Scotty but I might stick with a new one. If original lasted 9 years - no point gambling on another similar age. I was already paranoid of the 2nd hand buckle that I replugged the wiring of the original(broken clip) & reset, as well as pulling out the seat and checking all the plugs.

I really think this issue is related to our bad roads- really bumpy, and maybe thats just worked the tension free a bit in my case through some high speed stuff that or a faulty one or both :)

Fair enough. Things will get very costly replacing all your broken/worn parts with new ones. Perhaps it's time to ditch the car for a current model, just because it's old now...

Gambling on S/H parts... Anyway, if you want new you don't pay Nissan retail, get on to Amayama.

All I have to do is get a job before I start dreaming of a new one & whilst I like them- they dont appeal like the v35...Im certainly not sentimental at all about replacing if/when more faults start cropping up. My R33 was about 10 years when little things started failing so guess this is getting there

  • 1 month later...

Mine started flashing on my way home from dinner tonight =(. Tried to reset it with the two methods above and it has now stopped flashing but still gives me a warning light when I turn on the ignition on but goes away after 10seconds or so. Will get it looked at in 500k's when it goes in for its 90,000km service.

Hi Lee, its exactly 7 seconds and hopefully it stays away for you too. When doing the resets you can actually hear the "clock". In the off position its every two seconds. I guess thats why you turn on after 4 on reset. Goodluck

now stopped flashing but still gives me a warning light when I turn on the ignition on but goes away after 10seconds or so. Will get it looked at in 500k's when it goes in for its 90,000km service.

Isn't it supposed to do that? mine always has.. the airbag light stays on after starting the car until it has comleted all system checks.

Yes but it stays on about 5-10 seconds longer then the other warning lights which it never used to before.

Still driving the car today and it hasn't started flashing again so seems to have done the trick (touch wood) but none the less I will get it checked next service which should be next month.

Sorry to hear. In my previous post . I actually typed "electrical things never go away until fixed".But deleted it because I didnt want to be the bearer of bad news so I deleted it..In my previous posts above you can see it did exactly the same.oh well at least you know for sure now.

  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...

Noooo just as I put my V35 on the market I get into my car this morning and the bloody airbag light starts flashing :(

Gold Coast Nissan don't touch imports apparently and I can't find other mechanics who have the system to clear the warning grrr

Sorry to hear it. Try the manual reset mentioned above that will clear it but most likely these things return.. Just an idea but maybe one of the compliers up their will have a scanner that can identify the problem if it returns.good luck

yeah was in a bit of a rush this morning when I tried to clear it using the steps mentioned and didn't work but just tried this afternoon and it cleared it by turning it on and off 4 times phew :cheers:

Now hopefully it wont come back before I sell it eek! Moving overseas and it has been an outstanding car since I've owned it and don't need the hassle of trying to get it fixed.

Edited by D2K77

SRS is very annoying when it has problems. Can be anything.

Take a read at

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G35/Coupe/2003/srs.pdf

For my car the seat belts were tampered so the indicator kept coming back whenever I pull the belt hard - but as the article said, a flashing indicator can be anything, clock springs, sensors, modules, belts.

  • 2 months later...

My 03 coupe started to do this about 8 months ago. I don't recall what error code it was throwing up (something about a faulty sensor?) but my mechanic went through the whole system and couldn't find anything wrong. They also did the reset procedure and the light came back on after about a day.

I did the ECU reset procedure and it hasn't come back on since!

  • 10 months later...

I know this is an old thread, but I know some had mentioned they hadn't see the anti-submarine rams, I had my drivers seat out yesterday to fix and intermittant connector and thought I would take some pictures. It is fairly tucked up inside the seat, but you can see a bit of it.

All photos were taken with the seat lying on its back, so the top of the picture is the front edge of the seat.

post-84647-0-24828200-1449996204_thumb.jpg

post-84647-0-36343500-1449996311_thumb.jpg

post-84647-0-49503500-1449996350_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean he could post them to imgur or the like and create a link. But yeah, spam bots absolutely will post pictures in their first posts.
    • Ah ok, reason I asked was for the sake of not having to upgrade everything if the turbo couldn't be capped.
    • pffft! My alignments are starting to take 3-4 weeks each. Bugger overnight - that would be a dream! Overnight is when I leave it on stands with the rear suspension in pieces, hoping I can remember where I was at when I come back to it. I have to set the car up on a level surface so I can get decent camber measurements, then try to set the RUCAs to the right length to get that right. Then I have to put the car somewhere else where I have enough room to set up the bumpsteer gauge (laser, paper, mirror), so I can dial out that. Then I need to go measure camber again because changing the tension arm length affects that also. Then I need to measure toe, and I can't do that to my own satisfaction at home, so I have to put it on an actual aligner. Then I have to go back and fix the camber again, and if that took more than a half a turn, decide if I want to set up the bumpsteer measurements again. I previously had the bumpsteer almost completely banished and then I started changing things again! And that's only the rear end. Not even gotten to talking about the front yet. And this has been going on in the context of me discovering a seized bolt in the LHR FUCA bush at the upright, hence needing total disassembly to replace that bush and the others that were not far away from the same outcome, replacing sphericals in the front end and making a mistake that resulted in needing to do it again, which is only half done right now. It's a selfmade nightmare. Only have self to blame, etc etc. But regardless, I am so complelely unable to utilise the services of a normal wheel aligner that I have no choice. I haven't found a shop in my city that does "race" alignments - and by that I don't mean I want my car to be set up for racing, but the set of adjustments that I have available and that need to be used to do the alignment are the same as you'd find on a race car. I haven't looked everywhere, but there doesn't appear to be the equivalent of the motorsport focused shops that are present in Sydney and Melbourne. And such an alignment would cost $300, and you only want to do it once in a while, and you don't want to find out that you have to replace bushes and bearings and such while you are spending that $300 so you have to come back and spend it again a week later. So I stay living in my self made nightmare for the moment.  
    • Well, yeah, obviously. But then you have a turbo with 270kW "design", meaning it will have the higher boost threshold and lag of a bigger turbo, but only doing the work of a smaller turbo. That's the suck. That's actually exactly where I am right now, because my stocker exploded and I got Tao to do a highflow for me. I got a low pressure actuator on it and don't push it past ~10 psi or so, where the stocker was being run at ~12 psi. it makes a little more power than the stocker did, but it lags like a bitch. But, if I run any more boost it starts to ping and the ECU goes into panic mode, which cuts all the fun, so it clearly needs to be tuned. But, until such time as I (which is not I, it's my bro-in-law) can actually get the dyno working again, and get some injectors, and do all the swap over of those and the R35 AFM, I can't attempt to use the turbo the way it really deserves to. So what I have now is something that drives worse than what it did before it filled the cat with little pieces of turbine. I will tune it eventually, and probably only push it up to ~250-270 rwkW, which is pretty close to the max for that highflow anyway. I would imagine that by getting the tune right, and with newer betterrer injectors, we can probably make the boost come on a little earlier than it does now.** And if I do not think that the top end reward is worth the low end sacrifice, I will sell it off and convert to a G30, because the smaller ones of those come on boost very nicely on a 25 and make more power than I realistically need or want. The only reason I didn't do it at the time the turbo blew up is that I wasn't ready to sink a lot of money into an Artec manifold, reverse rotation turbo, the AFM and injector upgrade that would have been immediately compulsory, and the dyno was being problematic.*** It was easier and faster to just put the highflow on. And then, as I mentioned in an earlier post, even that is not "easy", because Tao's highflows use a shorter core than the Hitachi, so the compressor housing moves backwards in the bay, necessitating that all of the pipework had to get modded. ** And maybe just maybe, check the valve clearances and put new shims through, because I have recently seen firsthand on another motor that sloppy clearances on the shims can cost a lot of effective timing and lift and really slow an engine down. 3S-GTE in a Caldina got new shims, closing the clearances from just above the max to right down near the minimum, and it is a massively different car to drive. On boost the better part of 1000 rpm earlier!
    • ooooooh so this is where they get posted  Was at a wedding that day anyway, but the next one I will be there for SURE.
×
×
  • Create New...