Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone my battery light came on last night in my R34 while I was driving around town and I got to see it for a few seconds before all of a sudden my revs just died out and my car died, then immediately came back to life. The light would then intermittently turn on and off and the car died once or twice more then it stopped, and for about an hour nothing happened, it just drove normal. After this hour it happened again when I was just about home so I parked up and have left it alone today.

I tested the alternator this morning and it was charging at 13.8v and I checked my battery and that was holding 13.8v also while the car was running. Does anyone have any ideas of what this could be?

Mods:

RB25/30

ViPEC

Plazmaman Plenum

3076 on a 6boost Highmount

50mm Turbosmart Wastegate

Sard Injectors

Intank 044

Battery Mounted in boot (I checked the earths and connections on this and they looked good)

Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks

Also check your charge rate with your high beams, a/c fan, and brake lights on.

Need to see what the charge is doing under load.

Could still be a faulty alternator, possibly voltage reg on its way out.

But as mentioned, check your battery terminals, and earth points first.

Then go from there.

Good luck.

Sounds like the alternator or volt reg.

Really need a dc clamp meter to test it properly. Volt meters are handy but can give rricky/false readings.

if it was the alternator or reg the engine wouldnt die immediately as it still has the battery to run off. ecm would prob switch off between 8-10 so there would be ample time

sounds like something loose or even a short in batt cables

Hey guys, checked all those things and everything seems fine. The light came back on yesterday and so I tested the alternator and it was only charging at 11v. So I'm going to get it replaced as it seems to be an intermittent problem with that.

check the belt tension aswell? could be slipping

Once more, intermittant alternator wouldn't cause the engine to cut out like the OP describes... It would continue to run just fine off the battery for many more km's until the battery voltage drops to something crazy low like 8v or whatever the ECU starts getting confused at.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
    • STOP GOOGLING FAB9 MAKE BORG WARNER EFR KITS FOR THE NC. THEY PACKAGE AN EFR 6758. DO NOTHING ELSE. CAPS INTENTIONAL. THE BEST RESPONSIVE SETUP EXISTS FOR YOUR CAR, AND HAS BEEN PROVEN FOR QUITE SOME TIME NOW. IN B4 "BUT I WANT EVEN MORE RESPONSE, IN A SIMPLER, MORE RELIABLE PACKAGE" WHICH IS A LS.
×
×
  • Create New...