Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This is an excerpt from the Haltech website about fuel requirements and power levels.

If you can estimate the power output of a gasoline engine, you can make a reasonable guess at the fuel

flow requirement. A simple rule of thumb, thus, may be expressed in metric or imperial units.

Note: Every 100 hp needs around 50 lb/hr (8.0 US gal/hr) of fuel

(6.6 Imp gal/hr)

Every 100 kW needs around 670 cc/min (40 L/hr) of fuel

This assumes a brake specific fuel consumption of 0.50. The actual fuel flow necessary by injectors and

pump are likely to exceed a figure derived this way. This is due to the overheads in injector dead time and

pumping return fuel to maintain regulation.

I worked backwards with these figures and with my 910 cc injectors at 68 percent my power level came in at 554kw. This is at the flywheel I assume.

This seems a tad high. Who here can fill in some more information to get a more accurate power figure?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382090-power-level-for-rb25det/
Share on other sites

Rough rule of thumb is 1cc per hp

Thats when working out what size injectors you need.

Working out power by injector duty, is a very rough guestimate at best as just a couple of degrees of timing either way will affect it pretty badly, same with AFR's / VE etc

My suggestion is take it to the 'Plex and see what the trap speed it ;)

Yeah I knew there would be a lot in the afr and the timing. I guess I better get it down the strip hey. I think the clutch might let it down a bit but I should get through there pretty quick. Top of 4th is 125mph. That's what it would do I spose.

All depends on if you actually get to the top end of 4th, and what RPM is used.

You can actually hit the limiter and still see a MPH increase in some instances, just depends how hard it hits.

Doesn't take a genius to workout though that the car doesn't have 554kw @ the fly with a GT35 so the figures provided initially are wrong, or the calculations are.

But ye for a RB 1hp = 1cc using the stock reg (for most intents/purposes). E85 obviously confuses this as do pressure adjustments.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So we have most the interior back in, and for the first time with one OEM speaker hooked up. The 31 is running, driving and now tunes!!! Hahaha yet another step for the sub that sat 10m under for two weeks!!! unbelievable really 👌 lots of love work and not giving up on her. Seen so many youngsters part way less, and in way better condition. I’m stubborn, thinking another problem is just a hurdle to overcome, One at a time. IMG_9277.mov
    • That is correct. I'm using a modified ABS ring and a ZF speed sensor on my rear diff for speed input. I'm running a Haltech ecu. 
    • Been busy with the newborn. We originally thought we were going to go for a third, but we're good with two lol. He's starting to actually sleep now so I've had some energy to work on the car. It's been parked away in the garage since late November due to winter.  I went ahead and redid all my head oil drains. I originally had my front and rear head drain going into the same pipe but have since split them up. I also added an Ethanol content sensor to get ready to run E85 this summer. Tossed it on my return line. Sensor sits nicely under my intake manifold.    I also have a lot of parts that came in for my rear end. I'll be swapping over to a 3.3 final drive and doing the GK teck anti squat mod. While the rear subframe is off, I'll also change every bushing. We're planning on buying another house soon with the condition that I get at a minimum a 2 door garage, so I'll wait to have more room for this. Now onto the strange things that recently happened... After changing the lower rad hose (It had been sitting in my cabinet for well over a year and was the last hose I had to replace), I let the car idle in the garage to bleed my coolant. After running for a few minutes, it started missing. Got much worst within a minute or two and then stalled and would not restart. My crank sensor decided to crap itself. No damage, no explanation, just died. I went ahead and replaced it with another ZF sensor but the heavier duty stainless model with a shield. Tossed that in and started right up. Has anyone else seen this? I hate when things fail without cause. Luckily this was a blessing in disguise... This lead me to recheck my timing. It seems I may have had a beer or two the last time I had set my TDC angle as I was off exactly 5 degrees... I miscounted a line haha. I was running 5 degrees less then commanded. It's a little embarrassing but helps explain why my dyno operator seemed to think I should be making more then 478rwkws.        
    • Sharing results from recent Liberty Walk R35 GTR, since they are still considered as somesort of a V36 Skyline. We do them turbos too. This are high flowed SS-1 models with ball bearing conversion done.  Car have managed to pull 485awkws @ 20Psi so far pushing limitations of factory built engine. The build list for R35 GTR enthusiasts as follow : HyperGear high flowed stock turbos in SS1 (G25-660 specs) Custom titanium intake pipes. Vspec performance titanium front pipes. Vspec performance 4" titanium exhaust. Upgrade fuel pumps. 1200cc injectors. Ignition coilpacks Hks intake plenum. Hks intercooler piping. Greddy intercooler. Greddy bovs. Top-secret coolant reservoir. Emtron ecu. Straight E85. Built gear box.  
    • Nah no bearings, just slip fit.  Would be a reasonably challenging but not impossible job to modify it to run bearings but I'm hoping that's not necessary as I may have well built one myself if I end up spending hours modifying it!
×
×
  • Create New...