Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Just interested to know how much a custom 3 1/2 inch dump stainless steel on a stock manifold with a gt3076 should cost? So far been quoted $350, $550 and $800

so im wondering if the more expensive ones are any better or they're just over charging.

also if anyone knows a good fabrication workshop in brisbane ..

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382208-custom-fabrication/
Share on other sites

$800 for a dump pipe is rediculas, tell them to get f**ked.

May I ask what shops gave you what prices?

Quickspool said $350, Mazspeed was $750 i think cant remember now might of been $550, and EFI performance have said $900 for a himount and a bit cheaper for low mount,

Edited by SliverS2

Stainless will look pretty for about 2 days. Or 1 tuning session.

I would use mild steel and ceramic coat it or heat wrap it.

ah ok, my catback is stainless and years old, still looks ok,

but could do what you say because ill probably ceramic coat it eventually anyway, but what do you think it should cost??

1x 3.5 inch bend in stainless should only cost 30 or so bucks (you might need 2), I've just done a 3-3.5 inch dump in stainless for a mate and it cost $150 all up including flanges, extra bends with ext gate plumb back, , expander and straight pipe. I backpurge all stainless exhaust welding to help with longevity, happy to help you out if you want

1x 3.5 inch bend in stainless should only cost 30 or so bucks (you might need 2), I've just done a 3-3.5 inch dump in stainless for a mate and it cost $150 all up including flanges, extra bends with ext gate plumb back, , expander and straight pipe. I backpurge all stainless exhaust welding to help with longevity, happy to help you out if you want

sounds good, do you have any pics of it,

id be happy to pay you more than that for a quality dump pipe.:thumbsup:

Did have a photo somewhere of that one but must have deleted it. Here's a pic of one I did for a wrx couple of years ago (external gate, a little more involved), i'll be happy to knock something up to suit your budget- if you're keen, swing me a pm

post-48345-0-75311000-1320671441_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Man that dinner was such a long time ago....2010! I would only replace the rubber coolant lines with silicone these days; cheap, readily available and will last for ever. You will need new hose clamps though eg https://justjap.com/products/cooling-pro-silicone-engine-heater-hose-set-black-nissan-r32-gtr-rb26dett
    • I wouldn't look too hard at what they did with the R32 GTR in endurance racing in Australia... Lots of things weren't actually available from the factory in the way those cars ran them... Japan also followed what Fred Gibson was doing here with some of there endurance cars in Japan... Australia is also the reason for things like the Brembo brakes, and the change in the gearbox... And quite a few other tricks they used to pull. There's a few other SAU peeps still on these forums that will have heard the stories direct from Alan Heaphy, Fred Gibson, and Jim Richards when we were lucky enough to have a great dinner with them
    • For all the talk of "these parts are junk" I generally recommend OEM because it's really not as bad as claimed. I have never seen or heard of a case like the N63 where the oil returns completely clog with coked oil for example in ~10 years or less. Would it be nice if it were a straighter path? I guess, but most modern cars use a scavenge pump instead of a pure gravity return. Also the factory lines that would be relatively simple to convert to braided are generally speaking hardlines from the factory. I would consider braided line to be a regression, not an improvement. It's also been engineered such that all the hardlines have appropriate strain relief where needed. There's absolutely room for improvement, for example the HKS advantage heritage intake piping shows just how much can be done to make the turbos fight each other less in OEM twin turbo configuration and reduce compressor surge but it's rarely a simple/straightforward process. I recommend looking at what the group A/N1 cars did, generally speaking the changes they made were necessary and proven in endurance racing.
    • Yes, multi relays needed, and possibly a diode. I'm not actually going to think about it though.
×
×
  • Create New...