Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi everone my r33 gtst decided it dont wana start i dont drive it very much so started it up to give the battery some volts n while ideling in the shed it just shut off n now winds over but wont fire had noticed the last time i drove it that the revs where dropping a bit at idel. been going threw all the usual suspects n all that was left was the cas n the ecu manually tested the cas n athe coils click n the injectors are fine. i spoke to the nissan dealler here n they told me that even though the cas worked when i manually tested it that it could stilll be the problem is this the case or is he havin me on? any help would be greatly appreciated thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382281-cas-problem/
Share on other sites

yup CAS can still be stuffed, mine would spark and have injectors clicking but was the problem, replaced and it started first time

What CAS does ur car have, all metal early model?

Thats really good to know Fingers crossed that my prob!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382281-cas-problem/#findComment-6098487
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For me at least the reason why it bothers me is because it's indicative of a deeper problem. And that will nag at me forever. Especially because I have tailpipe emissions testing + evap leak testing every 2 years.
    • WELP. I went to the track, and I suppose it went okay because any time you can drive home is okay. You may notice the car is not on the circuit in this picture. It was about 35C day out in Benalla which means the track was approximately the surface of the sun, probably. Good things, car did not overheat but it _was_ warmer than when I had done track days in similar heat before, I think, I'm not sure - I can't quite remember. Coolant got to ~105 via the ECU after 20-30 minutes of belting it in said heat. Oil got up to 145C in one instance which is pretty crazy due to oil cooler. Pressures were fine. I seem to remember this not getting quite so high before the vents. More HMMMM'ing to be done. On the subject of HMMM'ing, can anyone identify the sounds in the video below, you will know which ones I mean: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uj3BkI2cbTc I included some 'normal' sound as a reference for the first minute or so. The microphone in this instance was where the license plate is. It stopped working later in the day which is why my "best example of a lap video (not produced)" had internal audio - Isn't hearable from inside the car. I don't mean the chirping of the un-bedded/badly bedded track brakes which you can only hear while braking... Thoughts, brains trust?
    • blame old mate Hawkins for that one  I remember way back in the day the japanese didn't want them either... they always assumed a race shell would be thrashed. We found a few when looking for an R34 GTR for the Whites to drive in Targa Tas back in 2002.
    • I know it's probably not going to cause any major engine issues. I just had a more generic concern that it's technically not running right (I guess this means the rpm is not sitting where it technically should be) Though the other thing is, it's that my steering wheel is shaking at 1,100 rpm at idle until it gets warm (seemed to happen after I tightened my alternator belt, will be testing the alternator soon).
    • I mean, what's the concern here? Higher fuel consumption? FWIW my idle sits at around 800rpm or so as well. And yes, it runs fine, idles fine and there are no issues as far as I can tell. I don't quite see the problem.
×
×
  • Create New...