Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

From my experience:

Poly Pineapples = Easy to install; reasonable improvement (when set for minimum compliance not squat or drift) in axle tramp and handling with no extra NVH

Alloy lock bushes = Easy to install; major improvement in handling, no axle tramp with a little more NVH

Solid Alloy bushes = No compliance, you can't get any more solid than solid. NVH will be much worse than above but if it is a track car who gives a sh1t

Go the solid alloy bushes for the ultimate drift/track solution but you do have to drop the entire rear subframe out of the vehicle and getting the old bushes out and the new ones in is a pretty big job (press fit).

I'm running the alloy lock bushes and they are a big improvement over the poly pineapples, cheaper and just as easy to install.

I have some (barely) used poly pineapples for sale ($50) if you want to try them out

I run solid subframe bushes in my R33 they work well and you can adjust the subframe as you require. They were a massive pain to install and I am still in the set up stage and learning what does what. I would recommend the easy fit alloy lock bushes but if you have the time and want to play fit the solids but just remember you can stuff the handling the wrong way also and it will take a fair bit of work to get it back to what it was before.

Check my build thread if you want pics of mine.

Good luck.

Solid is not always the best way to go.

A stupidly stiff and solid chassis can be a nightmare to create latitudinal grip with.

It comes back to what sort of compliance you have in the control arms (believe it or not arms should be designed to have a "tuned" amount of dynamic flex.) bushings/rod ends etc.

Iike Ryan said and has probably discovered it's far easier to go backwards than it is to go forwards alot of the time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...