Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah - I'm getting my guards lipped so I can fit some nitto's under the back.

Hopefully then I'll get a decent time! :D

Cheers,

matt

Matt with that MPH and a better 60ft you'll into 11's easy.

awesome must makin some hp?

Updated !

R33vit.. seen you stage against a loud v8 and expected you a slow pass (damn those cars are loud when your trying to listen to your own cars revs). Was quite surprised when you got to the other end in only 13.3 what changes have you done to your launching technique coz I want a 1.89 60ft :D

Last week I was launching on the potenzas as if they where my Grid II's (wrong)

this week I was launching from 5k as always but insted of feeding the power I was just nailing it from 5k.. Gotta love the potenzas:aroused: .. The New Power FC helps a lot too.:)

BTW - All the talk about reaction times, in my case, it was a Dial Your Own time, and I was racing a slower car! So for a bit over a second, I was sitting there watching the other car dissappear into the distance!

Still caught him tho :D

Cheers,

matt

Ben,

There seems to be some discrepencies with the reaction times on your list... I know it doesn't really count for much but just thought I would mention it...

At Willowbank, a 0.400 is a perfect reaction... Anything less is a red light... It seems this is different at WSID where a 0.000 is a perfect reaction?

This is likely to be the case at a few other tracks...

Make of it what you will...

At WSID when the light turns green the r/time starts. So if your r/time is 0.500 it took you 0.5sec to reaction to the green light. In 10yrs of watching drag racing i've never seen it any other way.

I disagree Ben... I've only ever seen perfect reaction times of 0.4...

If you read page 10 of the following rulebook from ANDRA, all will be clear...

http://www.andra.com.au/technical/drafts/i...credentials.pdf

And I quote:

The best reaction time possible is four tenths of a second - that’s the gap between the last amber light flashing and the green light coming on.
It appears to me that WSID are doing things slightly different from the norm... All I can suggest is you add 0.4 to the reaction times listed on WSID timeslips...

BenM you obviously havent been watching drag racing too closely over those 10 years then. Pre 2002 A perfect reaction time was a 0.4 Time between The last amber lighting and the green light lighting. Therefore anything before 0.4 was a false start,red light situation. With the invent of LED staging lights in 2002 NHRA changed the system to what it is now where -ve numbers are brake outs the over 0 is your reaction time. A few months later ANDRA also adopted this scheme.

A bit hard to tell what scheme each Track is using they all should be using the new system if they are andra approved tracks.

Have you ever raced DYO?

 

matt

Ive raced DYO quite a few times, and witnessed many more national events. Reaction time Has nothing to do with the other car. That is the phsycical time of it. DYO often causes brake outs when the chasing car becomes to impatient. But Even in Handicapt index events reaction time starts when your light goes green.

How many DYO events have you done?

Did my first DYO bracket meet type event today.

New time update as follows:

ET - 11.959 sec

TS - 117.18 mph

60' - 1.697 sec

RT - 0.090

Tyres - Nitto NT555R's 245/50/16

Timeslip uploaded to http://skylines.pnc.com.au/drags/2rismo.jpg

Adrian

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So we have most the interior back in, and for the first time with one OEM speaker hooked up. The 31 is running, driving and now tunes!!! Hahaha yet another step for the sub that sat 10m under for two weeks!!! unbelievable really 👌 lots of love work and not giving up on her. Seen so many youngsters part way less, and in way better condition. I’m stubborn, thinking another problem is just a hurdle to overcome, One at a time. IMG_9277.mov
    • That is correct. I'm using a modified ABS ring and a ZF speed sensor on my rear diff for speed input. I'm running a Haltech ecu. 
    • Been busy with the newborn. We originally thought we were going to go for a third, but we're good with two lol. He's starting to actually sleep now so I've had some energy to work on the car. It's been parked away in the garage since late November due to winter.  I went ahead and redid all my head oil drains. I originally had my front and rear head drain going into the same pipe but have since split them up. I also added an Ethanol content sensor to get ready to run E85 this summer. Tossed it on my return line. Sensor sits nicely under my intake manifold.    I also have a lot of parts that came in for my rear end. I'll be swapping over to a 3.3 final drive and doing the GK teck anti squat mod. While the rear subframe is off, I'll also change every bushing. We're planning on buying another house soon with the condition that I get at a minimum a 2 door garage, so I'll wait to have more room for this. Now onto the strange things that recently happened... After changing the lower rad hose (It had been sitting in my cabinet for well over a year and was the last hose I had to replace), I let the car idle in the garage to bleed my coolant. After running for a few minutes, it started missing. Got much worst within a minute or two and then stalled and would not restart. My crank sensor decided to crap itself. No damage, no explanation, just died. I went ahead and replaced it with another ZF sensor but the heavier duty stainless model with a shield. Tossed that in and started right up. Has anyone else seen this? I hate when things fail without cause. Luckily this was a blessing in disguise... This lead me to recheck my timing. It seems I may have had a beer or two the last time I had set my TDC angle as I was off exactly 5 degrees... I miscounted a line haha. I was running 5 degrees less then commanded. It's a little embarrassing but helps explain why my dyno operator seemed to think I should be making more then 478rwkws.        
    • Sharing results from recent Liberty Walk R35 GTR, since they are still considered as somesort of a V36 Skyline. We do them turbos too. This are high flowed SS-1 models with ball bearing conversion done.  Car have managed to pull 485awkws @ 20Psi so far pushing limitations of factory built engine. The build list for R35 GTR enthusiasts as follow : HyperGear high flowed stock turbos in SS1 (G25-660 specs) Custom titanium intake pipes. Vspec performance titanium front pipes. Vspec performance 4" titanium exhaust. Upgrade fuel pumps. 1200cc injectors. Ignition coilpacks Hks intake plenum. Hks intercooler piping. Greddy intercooler. Greddy bovs. Top-secret coolant reservoir. Emtron ecu. Straight E85. Built gear box.  
    • Nah no bearings, just slip fit.  Would be a reasonably challenging but not impossible job to modify it to run bearings but I'm hoping that's not necessary as I may have well built one myself if I end up spending hours modifying it!
×
×
  • Create New...