Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 100
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

i didnt get the foot pedal, dont really need it as mine came with the adjuster on the torch itself. obviously can only use it on 4T setting though which i never really used much before this machine

The correct term is actually called walking the ceramic which is pretty tricky to learn but once u have the technique its a piece of piss im a pressure welder by trade but have had heaps of experience in the food industry purge welding stainless steel tube installing steam pipes on boilers etc your pipe fitting is quite neat mate what u using to cut the pipe? me='BOOZTJUNKEY' timestamp='1320962225' post='6104531']

You could also try the "walking the cup " style of welding to help with consistency ;-)

For stuf like intakes and cooler pipes I only do a nice hot fuse but try and roll the pipe so I get in one run ...

It's only a fuse weld but is still a full weld and plenty strong enough for cooler pipes and intakes!

As for going back over the welds I use to think it was cheating also lol but it's not that uncommon of a practice In the last year I have heard heaps of ppl say that's what they do hahaha

Although if it was structual I would do a nice hot root run first make sure u have peno first then go over it if need be

If you are only welding exhausts and light stuff the duty cycle wont really be too much of a drama and if u r learning somethin cheap to get ya hand in and a few tips from somebody who can weld will be fine mate :-)

So a cheap no-name Arc welder with a decent duty cycle, then add a TIG attachment would be okay for small jobs? (Exhaust repair, custom plenum etc)

Running over welds is actually not good practice because putting too much heat into your material will create imbrittlement which causes the grain of the material to shrink and basically crystalize and in extreme conditions will crack right beside the weld

I agree but for things that won't need to work that hard like cooler piping and intakes it will be fine. for doing manifolds and plenums a hot nice weld is essential or it will crack distortion is the biggest problem leaning to controll that can be tricky

yeah agreed i think it will be a while before i try any manifolds

so i have done a little more alloy work no as well made a pencil holder that i have on my desk now :P

although its not Great what so ever im starting to get the nack of alloy welding

its quite different to stainless steel

i have now made ANOTHER set of pig pipes

and also working on a couple more intakes

im waiting for my bender to come in though before i do inter cooler piping as i want to get more rounded corners

post-63394-0-07747300-1321228844_thumb.jpg

not a great shot but they did come out just like the guy wanted

sounded good too :)

ok so a update

Got my bender last night and it is somewhat

TERRIBLE it does not bend as much as it deforms it i will try to upload some photo's tonight

form what i have heard one of the the tricks is fill the tube with sand before you bend your work

can anyone shed any light on this ( maybe someone that has also just bought a bender thinking you can bend things only to find that you cant :) )

and next project will be inter cooler piping for the everyday car going to work on making a predator style sort of set up

Also attempting to make a roll cage this weekend for a mates drift car BUT this bender is making me have second thoughts

i might end up buying a main hoop and doing the rest

it sure will be a packed full weekend

please dont use a bottle jack pipe bender on a roll cage.

need to use a bender with proper dies that follow the bend - like what the dude from engineered to slide

also, what sized tungsten are you using? looks like a 2.4? if you want a finer weld then get the collet etc for a 1.6 tungsten

don't worry craved i have VERY QUICKLY found that just like welding there is somewhat of an art on bending also

i think what i am most likely going to do is get a guy to do my main hoop as explained in my above post

and on the way home im going to go get some sand and give it a crack i will post pics up of everything tonight

Edited by Abe2

Sand is a pain in the ass you will never get a nice bend will still flatten out a little and you will struggle to get more then 35 degrees with out pipe damage. Buy round donuts can get any angle you want then or a proper bender one that rolles the pipe not crushes and hope it turns out for the best im not trying to be a rude basted I'm just telling you my experiences

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 2 more things I have to work out Easy one first...can anyone describe how to pull the fuel pump and sender from a 33? I can feel there is some sort of mount and clips but don't have a manual and don't know the trick......if not I'll spend some quality time in the boot witha lighter tomorrow. Second question is harder.  He had changed the upper plenum to a plazmaman but clearly got to a point with the vacuum hoses where he said "f**k it, I'm going inside for a beer" and never came back to that job because it was a mess. Am I right to think that I need: 1. Pre throttle (16mm nipple on inlet) to AAC's main 20mm fitting as the main pre throttle feed 2. ACC has a second 13m outlet joined to that 20mm fitting which I think is the pre throttle air supply for the cold start valve? 3. Cold start valve's outlet fitting then goes to Plenum (to bypass throttle?) There is some adapter on the back of the ACC with 2 fittings (13mm and 10mm), do I run the 10mm through a 1 way valve to the Brake Booster (4) and the 13mm back to a 13mm nipple on the Plenum as the Idle control (5)? 6. Run a 6mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart BOV to the Plenum? 7. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Fuel Pressure Reg to the Plenum? 8. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart Boost controller to the Plenum? (Wastegate already has a pre turbo pressure source running to the solenoid then the wastegate on the other side of the bay)  Any help appreciated, the GTR is quite different setup and while the Stagea also has FFP it is different again. (And no Dose, I'm not pissing it all off and putting a ethrottle on it....)
    • OK, onto some questions to try and speed up the process a little. Does anyone know what core this Garret is? I know it is a high flowed standard turbo but nothing else about it. Tag says OK 0169J - 446179-5032 Same question for the injectors, I don't know what they flow and ideally can work it out before it hits the dyno, they are a mustard yellow side feed
    • Quick side trip into the engine externals, alternator and PS were in place including tensioned belts, but the PS was dry (my guess is he had the steering rack reco-ed). Filled it up with Transmax Z but it will need more bleeding once the engine is running no doubt. BTW I've said before, I don't know what kind of soft animals you have in the city, but out here they breed the rats tough. I bet they were disappointed when they tasted synthetic ATF.... Coilpacks are Splitfires with a factory loom in reasonable condition. I didn't pull one put I bet the spark plugs are new as its a new engine
    • Onto intake pressure test. I have a Raceworks (damn brand thieves!) pressure test adapter that lets you apply pressure through a standard tyre valve and comes with a pressure gauge.....I just blocked off the other end immediately before the throttle body. Applied 30psi....and the turbo intake immediately popped off with a bang. Sorted that but it was still leaking, turns out there is a pinhole leak at the BOV adapter that I'll have to find a local place to TIG up. I'm sure it makes SFA difference with such a small leak but I want it to be right. Everything else up to the throttle body was good. Also cleaned and oiled the KNX cone filter, and this is the AFM if anyone can identify it (car runs a PowerFC)
    • I'll send you a message, but until I know what is OK (and anything that isn't) its kind of hard to work out a fair price. BTW I'm just helping out here, ultimately it is Mel's call what she accepts but I know it will go sooner or later.
×
×
  • Create New...