Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 130
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 3 weeks later...

Has anyone had a chance to fit these yet?

New tyres arrived today so I had another look at the wear & rears are surprisingly pretty good, but the fronts are trashed on the inside edge. What's the solution for that? Is there enough standard adjustment (even when lowered) or should I be looking at some sort of aftermarket adjustment thingy (that'd be the technical term, lol)?

So far I have only fitted them to the camber arms, got a little lazy. Took it for a wheel alignment and I should have fitted them to the toe arms as I planned, so I will fit the toe arm bolts in the next week or 2 and pay for another alignment rant.gif.

As it sits now the camber is at 1.25deg neg but need the toe bolts fitted so then they said I will get the camber near on .5deg neg with the toe set how they need it. They could get .5deg neg camber but then couldn't adjust the toe correctly. This is what i was aiming for when buying these bolts so all is looking good.

Very easy to fit the bolts. I did it the cheap way and bought an Ozito rotary tool kit for $50 and 3yr warranty and ordered a set of 10 carbide burr cutters from ebay for $30 delivered express. Both cheapies did the job without any fault and lived to see another day.

For the front I fitted super pro offset bushes to the upper arms. This gives you .5deg adjustment - or +. So my fronts are both sitting at 1.25deg neg. Before fitting them they nearly sat at 2 deg neg.

I did noticed my rear tyres are feathering a lot on the inside so they adjusted the toe in from 3mm to 4mm on both sides and se how it is in a few weeks.

What rear toe are most of you guys running to eliminate the feathering?

So far I have only fitted them to the camber arms, got a little lazy. Took it for a wheel alignment and I should have fitted them to the toe arms as I planned, so I will fit the toe arm bolts in the next week or 2 and pay for another alignment rant.gif.

As it sits now the camber is at 1.25deg neg but need the toe bolts fitted so then they said I will get the camber near on .5deg neg with the toe set how they need it. They could get .5deg neg camber but then couldn't adjust the toe correctly. This is what i was aiming for when buying these bolts so all is looking good.

Very easy to fit the bolts. I did it the cheap way and bought an Ozito rotary tool kit for $50 and 3yr warranty and ordered a set of 10 carbide burr cutters from ebay for $30 delivered express. Both cheapies did the job without any fault and lived to see another day.

For the front I fitted super pro offset bushes to the upper arms. This gives you .5deg adjustment - or +. So my fronts are both sitting at 1.25deg neg. Before fitting them they nearly sat at 2 deg neg.

I did noticed my rear tyres are feathering a lot on the inside so they adjusted the toe in from 3mm to 4mm on both sides and se how it is in a few weeks.

What rear toe are most of you guys running to eliminate the feathering?

Have you guys not put the lower arm Super Pro caster bush's yet?....the offset ones.

Edited by Jetwreck

Have you guys not put the lower arm Super Pro caster bush's yet?....the offset ones.

They made a huge difference to the turn in, not sure how much extra angle they give but it feels great in corners now.

Still yet to fit the camber bolts, or get the alignment done...

I havent fitted them. I won't until the factory bushes crap themselves. How much extra castor do they give?

How many KM's has your car got? You need to check them with the car in the air or else you wont see the cracking. From memory I got about 1.5-2 degrees out of them! They also help the car to stop ducking weaving!

As Scott said in the turn in theres a big difference....bring the car to life imo!

Edited by Jetwreck

Thats the idea. The Pedders guys said they'd used them on other cars and found them really good, make the car nice and stable at speed with a couple of extra degrees of caster.

Doing mine as soon as I've got everything ready. Have to send a set of toe arms back that don't fit and get the correct camber arms.

White line do some similar that are cheaper but theyre not eccentric. Pedders quoted me $150 for the eccentric super pros and I thought thats what everyone was paying.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've always approached this as, price is comparable between low temp and high temp fluid. Just put in the high temp fluid. I've not going to lose any sleep thinking about could I have saved $20 on brake fluid that is going to live in the car over the next 2 to 3 years. 
    • Nah, the creases were pretty large, and the sheet metal is pretty thin and hard to work out, time alone is in the hours to fix, and would probably have more bog than I would be happy with In other, more happy news, I gave MX5 Mania a call and they have a few clean boots available for $400 a peice, I've contacted Fineline and given them their contact details, I'm a idiot for not thinking of them sooner
    • That really depends on how hot the brakes get and how much of any heat is transferred into the fluid. That really makes it at least a vehicle specific question, and more than like a specific vehicle specific question, depending on what brakes (ie stock, bigger rotors, different calipers) or even what pads are on it. And then there's the question of cooling air. Is there plenty stock? Is there no special cooling arrangements stock? Has some/more been added? In other words, I think you have to do the experiment to obtain the data. And if you;re worried - tie on some ducting?
    • In all the track days I've done over the past few months I've only had 1 issue with braking and thats with my current EBC pads (can't remember the colour, but they're not a track pad). I don't *think* I have had issues with brake fluid getting too hot, my understanding is that when that happens you will have quite noticeable brake loss - which I haven't had.  I'm using just regular ol' Penrite Super DOT4 fluid. I use this fluid in everything and my cars always seem to stop so I see no reason to change, except ... for the 335i. I need to do a fluid flush and was thinking about my fluid of choice and wondering if I should consider using something more high temp? Its not a super fast car by any standards but I'd hate to do a flush and then find myself with no brakes when I get. to Wakefield.  I guess, my question can be summed up as "How fast do you need to be driving to need higher temp brake fluid?"  I remember high temp fluid was considered a must have back in the day when I had my GTR. 
    • For anyone that comes here looking for answers on what can go wrong with gts-4 to rb25detneo swap. The Gloria's awd sump is different and does not fit. The rb25neo from stagea are exactly the same sump bolt pattern and axel alignment. Castings numbers are different on Gloria's blocks and oilpans if they need to be identified.
×
×
  • Create New...