Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

was just wondering what times you fast guys are rattling out over there now as its been a good couple of years since ive run anything at those track and at the time 1.43 on a radial at the island and 1.16 and sandown and 63 or 4 s was the goods at calder, whats the goods these day
Those times still hold true for a fast GTR. Problem is there aren't any track only GTRs running around Vic...Most are fast street/track cars which are still 1-2 sec off the times you posted as full weight street cars on semis

Fair enough. As per Roy's post above my car is a full weight street spec car (no weight removed - not even the back seats, aircon, stock brakes etc etc)...all I do is bolt semis to the thing. At PI I have done a mid 1:44, Sandown a mid 1:19 and Calder a 1:06 (although to be fair I haven't had a real crack at Calder - car is capable of a 62 IMO).

  • Replies 67
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

anything under a 1.46 or 7 is fast on a semi there in a road going car, the last time i ran there in a road car i think we ran a 1.41 on a 265/640/18 slick but in full road trim drive there drive home, so 1.44 on semi is sensational, there was a guy running at the time called marcov or something like that from further north running in the 43,s i think too at the time in a 32 gtr

Back to the original q...do I think my car (I know its not a dedicated track car) would be faster in 2wd? On face value, I would say no as in slower corners the car has way more exit speed than 2wd cars. Also when the car does break traction mid through a corner the awd allows me to keep on the throttle. This was particularly evident on my 44 at PI as my right rear semi was effectively bald. Around left hand corners like lukie heights the car would break away and I had the confidence to keep on the gas as the awd would pull me out of the corner. With the tyres going off like this a 2wd car (even if it were lighter) would never be able to pull a time like that.

A good comparison would be my battles with Russ's track gtst during 2010. My car was a full weight (as described previously) 33 gtr with 280kw at the rears. Russ's 32 was stripped with about 250kw at the rears (roughly...Russ could quote a more accurate power figure). IMO the slight power advantage of mine is offset by the weight difference which leaves a fairly good comparison between the 2wd and 4wd (before anyone complains I know there was a fair bit of chassis, suspn geometry diff between the 32-33)....oh and I was running slightly wider semi's as well. At the end of the day we were neck and neck at most tracks with not a lot splitting us. However when tyres were worn or the track was damp the 4wd was on top.

Back to the original q...do I think my car (I know its not a dedicated track car) would be faster in 2wd? On face value, I would say no as in slower corners the car has way more exit speed than 2wd cars. Also when the car does break traction mid through a corner the awd allows me to keep on the throttle. This was particularly evident on my 44 at PI as my right rear semi was effectively bald. Around left hand corners like lukie heights the car would break away and I had the confidence to keep on the gas as the awd would pull me out of the corner. With the tyres going off like this a 2wd car (even if it were lighter) would never be able to pull a time like that.

A good comparison would be my battles with Russ's track gtst during 2010. My car was a full weight (as described previously) 33 gtr with 280kw at the rears. Russ's 32 was stripped with about 250kw at the rears (roughly...Russ could quote a more accurate power figure). IMO the slight power advantage of mine is offset by the weight difference which leaves a fairly good comparison between the 2wd and 4wd (before anyone complains I know there was a fair bit of chassis, suspn geometry diff between the 32-33)....oh and I was running slightly wider semi's as well. At the end of the day we were neck and neck at most tracks with not a lot splitting us. However when tyres were worn or the track was damp the 4wd was on top.

back in 2010 I was on 245 rubber, 225-230kw. And remember thats an RB20 230kw haha. They were good times hey Ant!

Also it wasn't that 'stripped'. no rear seats but had a half cage. air con out but that's about it. I was regularly driving to track days then.

My opinion.. Ant's and my cars were neck and neck and we both had a ball in the cars we chose, 2WD or 4WD. I'm RWD biased so I think Ant's car would be faster without 4WD but only on some tracks, not all. For the weight penalty you need to have more grip, power down (not all GTRs get front wheel power down with worn transfer cases), brakes etc, so a RWD will arguably make the times 'easier' and cheaper.

Before Ant and I upgraded things in 2011 we were both doing roughly 34-35's at Winton, 47-48's at PI, 24's at Sandown.

Conclusion.. If you want your GTR to go as fast as a GTSt add more rubber, brakes, power and cash haha. :laugh:

I got a bite :)

Forget this silly argument. Buy a GTR to have a GTR.

If u want a light RWD that overtakes GTRs round the track, then get a Silvia. JET200 weighs 1100kg and makes 350rwkw.

Drove around GTRs with 400 and ran sub 1:40s at EC

If you know how to build and drive a well set up race car, RWD is perfectly fine. But if u want to win WTAC, look at the previous leaderboards......

  • 3 months later...

Having owned (until recently) a bone stock gtst and currently a stock suspension wise gtr IMO the gtst wins hands down in the handling department.

Both vehicles had/have rubber upgrades only, With the gtst it was a simple matter to dial the understeer out on tyre pressure alone. a couple of pound difference was all required to turn the handling to neutral verging on slight oversteer (ideal imo)

The gtr is a freakin plough in comparison, No amount of playing with pressure has any effect whatsoever. It would take some handy spenshun mods to get the gtr to turn in like the gtst.

Wet roads are a whole nutha ballgame, the gtr owns the road on a wet track. Both cars are great to drive in their own way but the gtst is far more nimble and agile up to a point than the gtr as a street driven daily. The VCT also makes it a more responsive package to boot.

My black ERD gtst is a good example of a highly modded gtst, it gives nothing away to gtr's of a similar ilk, Some are faster some arent, (I aint sennaesque in my driving ability)

I still rate a 33 gtst very highly as a user friendly tuneable all round package. . .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Also had a look at the Nissan JP website looks like the 400r has a slightly shorter ratio than than the regular V37 3.133 VS 2.937 which from a guy who has driven both 3.69 vs 4.11 ratios in the S15 is bugger all. Seems that the AUTO Z runs the same ratio as the 400R but can't find any info as to if its an open or LSD? More often than not the auto LSD is open
    • Do not replace the power steering lines with this stuff. If it's anything like the Chase Bays stuff it will leak and be worse than stock. The reason why the reservoir is on the LH/passenger side of the car is because that's just where the reservoir was most convenient to fit. Don't overthink this stuff. The intake/cold side of the engine is pretty busy on these cars. And again, the hardpipe is designed to be a janky power steering cooler. In theory you can replace it with a real power steering cooler but that's really only for track use where boiling the fluid is a distinct possibility. Start with the low pressure lines feeding the pump from the reservoir. Make sure there isn't a bunch of junk in the reservoir filter. Be careful to not get ATF all over the engine bay. I hate dealing with ATF spills, you can clean it up and the slightest crevice will still release more oil that can still drip over time. You also want to inspect for leaks before you make a mess and can't tell what happened. Most likely you have a leak somewhere that is allowing fluid out and air in. Failing that it's allowing air in but not fluid out. Only place I can really see that happening is on the low pressure side because the pump will pull a slight vacuum to draw fluid in. Everything after the pump is high pressure or lower pressure, approaching atmospheric by the time it returns to the reservoir.
    • I did a skidpan night at SMSP this week, it was much cheaper than $350. But yeah, you need to slap an LSD in that thing.  I put an OS Giken in the 370Z and it's f**king MARVELOUS even compared to Nissan's viscous LSD. So you're saying it's free now that it's a housing estate? 😂
    • Nah, the car seems to run exactly as it did prior, in saying this it does "seem" to be better down low, like more eager to rev, but that may be 100% placebo effect from intake noise But, I'm not worried about it at all, in the end it is a fairly low compression NA engine that has a well shrouded intake,  if it is getting hotter IAT I cannot notice anything negative performance wise from the seat of my pants thrashing it about on the street or sitting in traffic, so meh, car now now makes induction noise so I'm happy
    • Do you have an IAT sensor? It's worth checking it to see. You may be suprised how little gap you actually need to flood your engine with hot air. (I tape up my airbox for a reason) :p
×
×
  • Create New...